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裏千家14代淡々斎宗匠に頂いたという庵号「玉兎」
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銀杏のすり流し
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高野槇のお風呂
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襖の笹の引き手
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あじろの天井
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佐官の見事な仕事
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
個人的には昨年、赤坂「詠月」の料理とおもてなしに感動したので、ご主人と女将さんともどもご出身のこちら炭屋旅館に満を持して宿泊。
先代・先先代が茶道に詳しい数寄者ということもあり、建築、内装、料理、おもてなしのすべてにわたって、茶道文化を体現した究極の宿。
しかも今時このプライスレスともいえる高級旅館が1泊２食4万円未満で宿泊できるという、ちょっと他ではあり得ない旅館。
まさに京都観光のメインを飾るにふさわしい宿です。
■料理・味
基本的に茶懐石料理なわけですが、全般的に豪華絢爛というのではなく、味わい深いしみじみ美味いな、と思わせる料理です。もちろん高野山の松茸などの高級食材も松茸ご飯という形で使用しているものの、一品一品がなんともじんわりと身体に染みるような料理なのです。
お茶の世界では「お茶を飲むこと」がメインイベントであって、その前に料理をいただくのはあくまで「お茶の味を引き合ってるための手段に過ぎない」という位置付けらしいのですが、脇役としての料理も当然ながら、美しい陶器・漆器と共に提供される素晴らしい料理群でした（ちなみにお茶をいただくのはチェックアウトの前）。
特に気に入ったのは、銀杏のスリ流しで、こんな料理あるんだなという感じ。銀杏ならではの独特の苦味が見事に生かされた料理で、初めて出会う見事な料理。
■サービス・雰囲気
立地は四条の繁華街に近く、いたって周りは賑やかな場所なんですが、なぜか炭屋旅館は見事に静謐な空間です。なぜこんなに静かなんだろう、と思います。一歩街に出て２ブロックほど歩けば観光客がわんさかいる場所にもかかわらず。
なので夜も静かな京都の夜を、ヒノキよりも柔らかく滑らかな肌触りだという高野槇で造られた湯船に浸かりながら、まったりと過ごすことができます。
そして内装の仕立てを細かく見ていくと、その素晴らしさに感動します。特に気に切ったのは客室の壁で、左官の手仕事による、東山の稜線を模したかのような意匠。
その他、祖業が鍛冶屋だったということから襖の引き手も素敵です。瓢箪だったり笹の葉だったり・・・
天井は何気に網代だったりするのもよい。
その他かかっている軸から生けてある花から、あらゆるものが季節と連動して料理とともにそのときの旬を表現しているのです。
おもてなしも昔ながらの接客係の方が部屋食の準備から布団のセッティングからすべて同じ方が対応します。自然に会話も弾み、宿のゆかりやら季節ならではの話題やら、でしゃばらず、かといって気配りしつつの接客。
夕食時にご挨拶にいらっしゃるおかみさんも、そのたたずまいも美しい。
などなど、まさに総合芸術たる茶の道を体現したかのような宿です。