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トマトのアミューズ
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パン
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野菜の見本
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日本各地から取り寄せた有機野菜とズワイ蟹と蟹味噌のバーニャカウダ
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日本各地から取り寄せた有機野菜とズワイ蟹と蟹味噌のバーニャカウダ
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蟹味噌のバーニャカウダソース
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稚鮎のフリット
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うなぎとフォアグラのマリアージュ マンゴーのインパクト
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千葉産太刀魚とタップナードのパート包み
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太刀魚
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鴨
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ビュルゴー家シャラン鴨 胸肉のロースト 豪マンジマップ産黒トリュフのソース
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砂肝
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「意気ごみ」鉄鍋炊きあげご飯
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「意気ごみ」鉄鍋炊きあげご飯
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「意気ごみ」鉄鍋炊きあげご飯
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デセール
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デセール
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デセール
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デセール
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デセール
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ハーブティー
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ハーブティー
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生キャラメル
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トピナンブールと牡蠣の春巻のアミューズ
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パン
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日本各地から取り寄せた有機野菜とズワイ蟹と蟹味噌のバーニャカウダ
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日本各地から取り寄せた有機野菜とズワイ蟹と蟹味噌のバーニャカウダ
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蟹味噌のバーニャカウダソース
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京都若狭湾アマダイの松笠焼き 雲丹のエルミショネール
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根室産白子のムニエル 金子さんの野菜のエチュベ
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パン
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インカのめざめ
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スペイン産イベリコ豚の骨つきロースト
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渋谷の松涛にある超人気フレンチ。今回2ヶ月前にお誘いを頂き参加することに。渋谷駅から歩くと10分強。最寄駅は神泉駅。界隈に最近まで住んでいたのに、何故か道に迷って同席者の皆様にご迷惑を掛けてしまった。
私が迷っている間に、皆様がコースのアレンジを決めてくれていて、何も考えずに溢れんばかりのスパークで乾杯。ちなみにこの日は朝の4時まで埼玉の志木で飲んでいて強烈な二日酔いだったので、酒はこの一杯だけ。
5,250円のコースが基本。追加料金を出してメニューを追加したり差し替えたりといったアレンジが出来るのが特徴。ちなみに超絶美味でついついたくさん食べてしまう自家製パンはふたつめからは別途料金かかる。
ソムリエの金山氏に対する感想は料理の雑感の後に記載。
料理の感想はじめ+++
トマトのアミューズは甘味・苦味・酸味・塩味・辛味を味わえるとの触れ込みのキャラメリゼしたプチトマト。写真をよく見ると、切り込みが入っているのが分かるのでは。スタートの提案として面白い。
パンは自家製で特に四角いブリオッシュがおススメ。素晴らしい。実は今回の料理で一番感動したのはパンだったりする。美味しいからといって、調子に乗って食べ過ぎると、後半が苦しくなるので注意。
日本各地から取り寄せた有機野菜とズワイ蟹と蟹味噌のバーニャカウダは濃厚なバーニャカウダソースが特徴。店としても準備が楽だからいいんだろうな。野菜を見本として見せるのがプレゼンとして長けている。
面白かったのはオイスターリーフという野菜で、名前からも想像できる通り、牡蠣の味がするというもの。こういう小ネタも交えながら、ソースの魅力でバカールならではのバーニャカウダに仕上げている。
稚鮎のフリットは追加で。泳いでいるかのビジュアルで、金山氏の「そのままお口まで泳いでいきましょう!」のフレーズが各テーブルで連呼される。笑 つけて食べるバーニャカウダソースに負けない味の強さ。
うなぎとフォアグラのマリアージュ マンゴーのインパクトは非常に分かりやすいメニュー。鰻やフォアグラの濃厚さを前面に出しながらも、マンゴーの真っ直ぐな酸味がうまく調和して非常にバランスよく食べられる。
千葉産太刀魚とタップナードのパート包みとビュルゴー家シャラン鴨 胸肉のロースト 黒トリュフのソースは決して悪くはないけど、ソースの味わい含めて、ここでしか味わえない、という感じではないかな。
「意気ごみ」鉄鍋炊きあげご飯は同席した隣の美女にほとんど食べられたのであまり味は覚えていない(笑)。クレームブリュレは凡庸。これは頼むメニューを間違えたかな。ハーブティーと生キャラメルで終了。
料理の感想おわり+++
この日は前述の通り、強烈な二日酔いで酒を飲む気分ではなかったため、最初のスパークだけにしたから、1万円以内でおさまったけど、普通に酒を頼んだら1万円をちょっと超える感じかな。酒の値付けはちょっと高い。
で、核心の話。金山氏の接客に関して。ため口接客。まあ賛否両論だろうと。でも、バカールはグランメゾンではなくカジュアルなフレンチである。ここでいうカジュアルなフレンチとはイコールビストロということではない。
対比の妙というか。グランメゾンのかしづくサービスとの対比。だから金山氏のサービスに共感するのは、フレンチにほとんど行ったことがない初心者とグランメゾン含めフレンチに行きまくっている上級者なんじゃないか。
そういう意味で初心者の私は楽しむことが出来た。
料理は全てが素晴らしいというわけではない。でも、それをビジュアルだったりプレゼンだったりで補おうという意思がある。だから、楽しいなあと感じてしまうし、また訪問したいなあとも思ってしまうのだ。
楽しい夢なら、醒めないほうがいい。