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恵比寿駅から徒歩4分。カウンター9席のみの天ぷら専門店。
オープンから間もなくミシュランガイドに掲載された実力派です。
高温で一気に揚げるのではなく、170度前後のやや低めの温度で静かに火入れ。
通気性のある軽い衣は口に入れた瞬間にほどけ、油の重さよりも素材の香りが前に出ます。
天ぷらの“軽さ”が印象に残るコースでした。
■ おまかせコース 23,500円
― 先付け ―
・銀杏
― 魚介 ―
・車海老
・金目鯛(静岡/焼津)
・活け締めの鯵
・蛤(静岡/大井川)
・鰯(静岡/焼津)
・穴子
― 野菜 ―
・大浦ごぼう 1年2ヶ月熟成(静岡/富士宮)
・ホワイトマッシュルーム
・蕪
・ふきのとう
・赤茄子(熊本)
― 箸休め ―
・くずそうめん
― 締め ―
・天茶(天丼選択可)
カマス/クロムツ/蓮根
・漬物
― 甘味 ―
・牛乳アイスクリームと柿(静岡)
魚は静岡のカリスマ鮮魚店から仕入れるものが中心。寝かせを取り入れた鯵は旨みが澄み、金目鯛はふわりとほどける食感。車海老は弾力のある身と軽やかな衣の対比が鮮明です。
野菜も印象的で、熟成ごぼうは甘みと香りが濃く、蕪はとろけるような柔らかさ。油の存在感よりも素材の輪郭が際立つ仕上がりです。
穴子は尻尾を塩、身をつゆでと食べ分けるスタイル。軽さを保ちながらも満足度は高い。
締めの天茶は、魚の柔らかさと蓮根の歯応えが心地よく、出汁とあおさの香りが余韻をつくります。最後まで重さを感じさせない流れでした。
派手さよりも火入れの精度と香りで印象を残すタイプの天ぷら。価格は23,500円と決して安価ではありませんが、素材の質と完成度を考えれば納得感は高い。
落ち着いた空間で、素材の持ち味をじっくり楽しみたい方におすすめしたい一軒です。