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3月はもはや下旬ながらも雨が降り冷える夜。戦災を免れた昭和5年築の建物の座敷で、ほかほかのあんこう鍋をつつきながら気のおけない間柄の仲間と冷酒をやる。この悦びをどのように表現しましょうか。そして、これ以上の悦びが存在するのでしょうか。
近隣の鳥すき「ぼたん」や蕎麦「まつや」などとともに、江戸の中の江戸の営みが、特別なこととしてではなく人々に楽しまれ続けている奇跡。神田須田町のこの一角は早期に世界文化遺産申請すべきだと思っています。
あんこうは大間産。鍋を中心としたコースに、珍しい刺身と炙りを別途いただきました。職人によって骨を完全に取り除かれた鍋のあんこう肉は、歯ごたえとピュアなコラーゲンを纏っています。この深海産の怪魚を調理するという先達日本人の叡智への尊敬の念とともにその肉を噛み締めながら、私の意識は銘酒「獺祭」の澄み切った甘露と混濁してゆき、そのまま海底に沈んでいくような心地でした。
筆舌に尽くしがたい悦び。ご馳走様でした。