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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
『恵比寿 鮨 謙心』が移転し、さらに洗練された空間へと進化しました。恵比寿の喧騒を抜け、住宅街の奥へ。控えめな佇まいの扉を開くと、広がるのは凛としたカウンター。以前より広くなった8席のカウンターは、よりゆったりとした時間を約束してくれます。
最初の一杯は、フランスのシャンパーニュ「Damien Hugot」。エレガントな泡立ちが、これから始まるコースへの期待を高めてくれる。
繊細な「八寸」。「新じゃがいもと塩水雲丹」は、新じゃがのやさしい旨みと雲丹の甘さが舌にじんわりと広がるひと品。甘みを引き立てた「子持ちヤリイカ」や、さっくり焼き上げた「穴子の白焼 キャビア添え」。春の息吹を感じる「白魚 オリーブオイル掛け」に、「花わさび ホッキ貝と平貝の煎り酒かけ」は、貝の旨味を存分に味わえる逸品。ひと口ごとに、大将の繊細な技と素材の個性が響き合います。
お造りは 「メジマグロ」に玉ねぎソースを合わせた一皿。さっぱりしたメジに 玉ねぎの旨みが重なり合い思わず頬がゆるむ美味しさ。続く「鰆のフライ」は、春の山菜・たらの芽とともに。衣のサクッとした軽やかさと、ジューシーな鰆のコントラストがお見事。
「桜鯛と聖護院かぶらの蒸し物」は、ふわりと立ち上る柚子の香りに心がほどけるひと品。口の中で解ける桜鯛の上品な甘さと、かぶらのやさしい舌触りが、春の訪れを感じさせてくれます。
ここからは握りの時間。最初に供された「金目鯛」は じんわりと旨みが広がり、続く「アオリイカ」は、ねっとりとした甘みとシャリの酸味が絶妙なバランスがイイ。
「青柳」は、一貫にすべての美味しさを閉じ込める”オールインワン”スタイル。磯の香りが口いっぱいに。「小肌」は穂紫蘇がほんのりと香る隠し味。変わり種といえば「牡蠣リゾット」という意外性のある一皿も登場。口に含むと 牡蠣とシャリが一体となる新感覚の味わい。
「マグロ中トロ」は、安定感を感んじつつ 奥行きのある味わい。「マグロ漬け赤身」は、しっかりと旨みが凝縮された一貫。そして、今が旬！！贅沢な「白子軍艦」の濃厚にして 弾けとろける瞬間は、まさに至福。
スペシャリティ①「甘エビ」。3本も贅沢に重ねられ 口の中でとろける甘さとシャリが見事に調和。いつまでも味わっていたい。
スペシャリティ② 大ぶりな「鰻の蒲焼手巻き」は、隠し味の奈良漬がアクセント。香ばしさと甘み ほのかな塩気が織りなす絶妙なバランスに 思わず唸りました。
最後は「赤出汁」で締めくくり。デザートは「苺とヨーグルトシャーベット」。爽やかな甘酸っぱさが、口の中をすっきりとリセットです。
〜ペアリング〜
ワインペアリングの妙もまた、この店の醍醐味。大将がソムリエ資格を持つからこそできる、計算されたペアリング。シャンパーニュ、白、赤、日本酒、オレンジワインまで幅広く、すべてが料理との相性を考え抜かれたセレクト。すべてを大将に委ねることで、新たな発見と感動が生まれます。
中でも「チャコリ・ブランコ」は、爽やかな酸がシャリ全般と見事に調和し、鮨の余韻をさらに引き立つ一杯。
そして、もうひとつの注目は「シュペートブルグンダー･トラディション 2019 / フリードリッヒ･ベッカー」。ドイツのピノ・ノワールが持つ、滑らかな果実味と繊細な酸が、マグロの赤身と見事にシンクロする。赤ワインと鮨、意外な組み合わせながら、これほどまでに相性が良いとは！ 新たな発見に思わず感嘆の声が漏れてしまいました。
贅沢に心満たされるひとときを過ごせた『恵比寿 鮨 謙心』。友人に自信を待ってお薦めできます！