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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
神通川沿いの閑静で緑豊かなアートリゾート・雅樂倶内にある『レヴォ』。今や富山のみならず北陸でも1、2とされる注目のモダンフレンチだそうで、イチオシいただき訪問。
地産地消の前衛的地方料理と自ら謳うように、料理のみならずお酒や食器、メニューに至るまで地元愛と徹底したこだわりを尽くしたレストラン。
テーブルから机上の箸、箸置き、手前引き出しのスプーン、ナイフまで細部が美麗。座ってすぐの第一印象からすでにその世界に誘われ、そのまま心奪われる一品一品の独自で芸術的な誂え。
プロローグから五品、どれも色鮮やかに目を引くが真っ赤なマカロンのような鶏レバーに、幻の深海魚げんげのフライを山椒で。パンのバターも海藻を練り込んだという独特な香味と濃厚なまろやかさ。続いて、炭で炙ったアオリイカは下に5種類の人参、ソースとからまり温野菜風で絶品の美味しさ。
ちなみにお酒はその一品ごとに合わせたグラスワインをお店がセレクト、時に日本酒まで。そこでまた驚いたのが、鳥のバージンエッグ(初めて聞きましたが、産み落とした最初の滋味ある1コめだとか)に黄金色の貴腐ワインをサーブされ、この色合いと味の絶妙なマッチングがまた楽しめる。
さらに生後45日の若鶏レボォ鶏は満寿泉の酒粕飼料で育ち、調理時にはさらに皮に酒を漬すそう。その腿肉がリアルに焦げた爪先まで供されます。満寿泉はその前の烏賊の和え物とともに、オークの樽で熟成させたというオリジナルな燻製薫る一杯でも。
そしてメインは魚が黒部の甘鯛で皮がパイ生地みたいにパリパリで香ばしく。肉はジビエの大山猪を赤カブとともに、いずれも焼き加減が絶妙で最後までくどくなく素材の旨みを味わえる。ワインを赤と白、また異なるヴィンテージでグラスを交互に魚と肉料理それぞれで合わせWの楽しみ。
期待に違わず再訪したい、次回はホテルに宿泊するのもいいなと。