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大根を使ったスワンの形のパイ
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ショープレート
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シャンパンはCHARLES HEIDSTECK
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よだれ鶏、大根を使ったスワンの形のパイ、和牛頬肉を香辛料で炊いたもの
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よだれ鶏
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大根を使ったスワンの形のパイ
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スワンの形のパイの中身は大根
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大根を使ったスワンの形のパイ、断面
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オマール海老
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ドリンクメニュー
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セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、小籠包を作る宮谷シェフ
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セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、小籠包
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白ワインはあさつゆ
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セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、小籠包
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小籠包
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セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、
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セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、箸上げ
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鮑の茶碗蒸し
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鮑のレンゲ上げ
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百合根のレンゲ上げ
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北京ダック
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北京ダック
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北京ダック
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北京ダック
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北京ダック
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北京ダック
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オレンジワイン「ジビッボ」
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オマール海老と唐辛子の炒め物
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オマール海老と唐辛子の炒め物
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オマール海老と唐辛子の炒め物
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オマール海老と唐辛子の炒め物
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フカヒレの姿煮
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フカヒレの姿煮
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フカヒレ、箸上げ
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ご飯をよそう奥様
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フカヒレの姿煮とご飯
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フカヒレの姿煮にご飯投入
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フカヒレとご飯
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ラーメンという概念を超えた麺
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モツの箸上げ
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麺の箸上げ
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ご飯と麻婆豆腐
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麻婆豆腐
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ご飯
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麻婆豆腐の具材の白子の箸上げ
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杏仁豆腐
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杏仁豆腐
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杏仁豆腐、箸上げ
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エッグタルト
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エッグタルト
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エッグタルト
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エッグタルト断面
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宮谷シェフ
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外観、入口
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入口
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サイン
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もう既に次の予約は4年後だと言う。
チカラある友人のお誘いで今回の訪問を決めたのも半年前のこと。
席は6席のみのこじんまりしたスペースで、ご夫婦お二人で切り盛りする。場所は京都の二条木屋町あたり。少し前に到着したけど、灯りが点いてなくて、店の場所を通り過ぎてしまった。店名は「中国菜 Guu」。
ワインは持ち込みオッケーで(持ち込み料一本5500円)、ならばと、かなり良いワインを持ち込みいただく事に。シャンパン、白、オレンジ、赤の4本を結局開ける事に。
まずは❶《前菜3種》。
①「よだれ鶏」…初っ端からかなり美味しい。このタレを買って帰りたい。
②「大根を使ったスワンの形のパイ」…中身は大根ベースにリンゴとブルーチーズ、皮はジャガイモをペーストにしたもの。…中身も美味しいがサクサクした皮のパイの部分と合わせるとより美味しい。
③「和牛頬肉を香辛料で炊いたもの」…シンプルだがもちろん美味。
合わせたシャンパンは(1)「CHARLES HEIDSTECK」…かなり美味しくキレの良い味わい。
かなり大きなサイズの蒸籠で蒸した❷「セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子、小籠包」をいただく。…小籠包は熱すぎず、舌に適度な熱さまで計算されている。セイコ蟹の蒸し餃子は内子の旨味もしっかり伝わってくる。
合わせたのはケンゾー エステイト の白ワイン(2)「朝露(あさつゆ・asatsuyu)2022」…冷やしていただく。芳醇かつ爽やかな贅沢な味わい。
続いて料理は❸「茶碗蒸し」…もちろん単純ではなく、金華ハムから丁寧に取ったスープで作った茶碗蒸しをベースに、具材に『蝦夷鮑』と『百合根』、上の緑色は『銀杏の摺流し』。体も温まり美味しい。
大きな蒸籠と同様にこの店で大切な調理器具は高熱の火力を出せるコンロ。多分日本一の火力だそうで、確かに火を使う音がまるでジェット機の爆音に近いと感じるほど。
その火力を使った料理が次の「北京ダック」に、かける油でも発揮される。
❹「北京ダック」…胡瓜も入り、ひとつ目は『胸側の皮』からいただく。パリパリジューシーで、脂も感じなんとも美味しい。
二つ目は『背中側の皮』…よりパリパリ感がある。2種の食べ比べも面白い。
合わせたワインはオークションで落とされた(3)高級赤ワインをいただく。…貴重な食体験。
コンロの火力マックスを感じた❺「オマール海老と唐辛子の炒め物」…活きた状態のオマール海老をザクザクと捌き、唐辛子、山椒と炒める。…肉厚のオマール海老の身と良い感じに合わされた辛さと痺れが美味。時々唐辛子そのものも齧ったりして楽しませてもらった。
合わせたワインはオレンジワイン(4)「ジビッボ」。…柑橘系のフルーティな風味と華やかなアロマ。果実の甘さを感じるワイン。
メインかな?❻「フカヒレの姿煮」…気仙沼のヨシキリザメのフカヒレ…これも肉厚で食べ応えあり。ソースはとろとろ濃厚。美味くてたまらん。終盤にご飯を投入していただく。…美味いんだな、これが。
❼「ミニラーメン」…上湯ではないが、とろみと旨みあるスープが絶品。そこに絡む麺ももちろん美味しいが、そうめんでもにゅうめん的に食べても美味しそうだし、なんだかラーメンという概念ではない麺料理だった。美味いモツまで入っていた。
そして追加で❽「白子入りの麻婆豆腐」…かなり腹パンだったが、これを食べずに帰ったら後悔しそうだったので少しだけいただく事に。…うん、でも確かに食べてよかった。適度な辛さの中に白子の鮮度、弾力、美味しかった。ご飯も少し一緒にいただく。美味しいに決まってる。
最後のデザートは❾「杏の種から杏仁豆腐」…アーモンドエッセンスでもない牛乳寒天でもない、本物の杏仁豆腐。…甘さ控えめの上質な味わい。この杏仁豆腐だけでなく全体的にとても繊細で丁寧な仕事を感じる。
予備知識を入れないままに伺ったが、宮谷シェフは元ZOZO前澤氏の専属シェフだった事を後から知る。
4年後の予約…流石に予約をお願いする事はしなかったが、またきっと縁があればもっと早めに来れると信じて生きていく事にしよう。