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魚だけで組み立てるフレンチ、というコンセプトは魅力的。
実際、海のシャルキュトリは個性的で、ひと皿ごとに驚きがある。
ブレザオラ(本来は牛の生ハム)をマグロで仕立てたり、サワラを生ハム風にしたり。
白エビを熟成させてソブラサーダのようにしたひと品など、発想の面白さは光る。
ただ、全体としては印象がややぼんやり。
それぞれの料理に「技」は感じるけれど、記憶に強く残るような一皿は見つけられなかった。
軽やかさと潔さを求めた結果、ちょっと薄味に感じたのかも。
空間はカーブを描くカウンターが主役で、舞台のような設計。
劇場型キッチンを眺めながら、魚の熟成に向き合うシェフの姿勢は真摯で、見応えがある。
“海だけでつくるフレンチ”という挑戦に敬意を払いながら、今後の進化にも期待したい。