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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
秋が深まり、彩り豊かな紅葉が山々を染め上げるころ、長らく訪れたいと思っていた富山県南砺市利賀村のレストラン「レヴォ（L'evo）」へと向かいました。車を走らせること五箇山ICから1時間ほど、標高の高いこの村には広大な森と澄み切った空気が広がり、日常の喧騒から隔たった特別な空間が訪れる人を迎えます。
立地はとてもユニークで、森の中にひっそりと佇むその姿は、まるで自然の一部として息づいているかのようです。建物に入ると、まず迎えてくれるのはガラス張りの前室。ここでは大きな窓から見渡せる豊かな緑を眺めながら、少し早めに到着したお客が心ゆくまでリラックスできる空間が整えられており、木の香りが漂う心地よい椅子でひと息つきながら、これから始まる食の旅に心を高鳴らせます。
今回予約したのは、ランチコースです。予約は公式サイトから行い、期待に胸を膨らませつつ、迎えた秋の旅行に彩りを添える訪問。席に案内されると、シンプルで温かみのある個室のテーブルが用意されていました。店内の雰囲気は落ち着いていて、控えめな装飾がかえって自然の豊かさと共鳴し、料理への期待感が高まります。
■メニュー
～Prologue～ ～鱧～
～米粉のパン～
～太刀魚～
～月ノ輪熊～
～アオリイカ～
～ジャガイモのパン～ ～すっぽん～ ～大門素麺～
～L’evo鶏～ ～甘鯛～
～仔猪～ ～ゆうかメロン～
～黒文字～
～大自然の恵みを楽しむランチコースの始まり～
最初に出されたのは、ウエルカムドリンクの「楓の樹液」。周りの森にたくさん生えている楓から採取された樹液を使っているとのことで、口に含むとほんのりとした甘さと香ばしい風味が広がります。まるでいちじくのような味わいが後を引き、思わず自然に対する感謝の気持ちが芽生えます。 次にいただいたノンアルコールのスパークリングワインは、黒文字を使ったもので、爽やかで奥行きのある木の香りが特徴的。森の空気と共鳴するような清々しさが、これから始まる食体験の序章を彩ります。
～ Prologue：前菜の饗宴 ～
このコースの始まりを告げる前菜は、小さな一口サイズの料理たちが次々と運ばれ、味覚と視覚を楽しませてくれます。
◎白エビの薪火燻し 富山産の白エビを薪火で燻し、下にはもち米で作ったエビせんべいが敷かれています。口に運ぶと白エビの濃厚な旨味と燻製香が広がり、続いてサクサクとしたエビせんべいの食感が楽しい余韻を残します。
◎ヤギチーズと酒粕のシュー 次に、丸いシュー生地にヤギのチーズと酒粕が練り込まれたものが登場。濃厚なチーズの旨味とほのかに香る酒粕が絶妙に調和し、一口ごとに豊かな風味が口中に広がります。
◎ ビーツとレバームースのメレンゲ 赤いビーツを使ったメレンゲに、間には鶏のレバームースが挟まれています。サクッとした軽い食感と甘酸っぱい風味、濃厚なムースのコクが絶妙に組み合わさり、すぐに溶けて消えてしまう美味しさが印象的です。
◎ アマダイとジャガイモのブランダードクロケット 緑色の丸いクロケットに、アマダイとジャガイモのペーストが詰められています。外側はサクサク、中には甘鯛の旨味がぎゅっと凝縮されていて、まさに一口の小さな贅沢です。
◎ げんげ 富山湾の深海魚「げんげ」は、サンショウの殻をまぶして焼き上げ、くるりと丸くなった形が可愛らしい。外側はカリッと、中は肉厚でふわっとした食感で、海の味わいが存分に感じられます。
～ 鱧：多層の調和 ～ 見た目も華やかな「鱧のジュレ」ですが、実際に口に運ぶと複雑な味の層が驚きをもたらします。ジュレの中には金時草のペーストやジャガイモのピューレ、雲丹、じゅん菜が層になっていて、全体に大葉のオイルがかけられています。スプーンで底からすくい上げると、最初に感じるのは大葉の香り。その後に続く梅肉や各素材の味が次々に押し寄せ、口の中で共鳴し合うように消えていきます。 この鱧に合わせて、自家製の米粉のパンもいただきます。もっちりとした米粉のパンは鱧のジュレとも相性がよく、自家製バターをたっぷりとつけていただくと、さらに深い味わいが口の中に広がります。
～魚と野菜のハーモニー：炭火焼の太刀魚～ 富山産の太刀魚は、シェフが目の前で炭火で丁寧に焼き上げてくれました。添えられた三つ葉とズッキーニ、パイ生地の組み合わせはユニークで、一口食べると、パリッとした食感の中に柔らかな太刀魚の身とみずみずしい野菜が絶妙に混ざり合います。噛むごとに太刀魚の旨みが広がり、その香ばしい風味が口いっぱいに広がります。
～ 月ノ輪熊：野生と洗練の共演 ～
月ノ輪熊の熟成赤身肉は薪火で香ばしく焼かれ、アザミのペーストやコンソメジュレが添えられています。牛肉にはない野生味が感じられながらも、クセはなく、アザミのペーストが肉の濃厚な味わいを引き立てています。森林の中で育まれた味の深さが、力強く、そして優しく広がります。
～アオリイカとジャガイモのパン～
氷見産のアオリイカは、この季節特有の甘みと柔らかさが際立ち、噛むほどにその旨みが引き立つ逸品です。下に添えられたマコモダケはシャキシャキとした食感が心地よく、クリーミーな貝のソースが全体を包み込み、アオリイカの繊細な風味と絶妙にマッチしています。 焼きたてのジャガイモパンは外側はカリカリで香ばしく、中にはほんのり甘みをたたえたジャガイモのほっくりとした生地が詰まっていて、そのシンプルな温かさがじんわりと伝わってくるよう。パンをアオリイカのソースに浸して食べると、ジャガイモの甘さと貝の濃厚な旨みが絶妙な調和を奏で、まるで秋の自然をひと口に凝縮したような満足感が広がります。
～すっぽん：野生の恵みを味わう～
天然すっぽんの旨みが詰まったこの一皿は、ミンチ肉をサンショの枝に巻き、炭火でじっくり焼き上げた逸品。仕上げにすっぽんの血を塗ることで濃厚な味わいが引き立ちます。上にはマリネした黄色いトマトが添えられ、下の万願寺唐辛子ベースのソースがスパイシーで野生味を抑え、食べやすいバランスに。香ばしいとうもろこしの生地で包むと、豊かな風味が口に広がり、複雑な味わいを楽しむタコスのような独創的な美味しさを堪能できます。
～ 大門素麺：伝統と革新 ～
江戸時代から伝わる「大門素麺」が、黒部のヤギチーズを合わせたスープに浸り、深い香りを放つふきのとうのグリーンオイルと共に登場。半生のもっちりとした素麺を口に含むと、ヤギチーズの濃厚で優しい酸味がスープに溶け出し、春に皆で摘んだふきのとうのほろ苦さが余韻を残します。素麺、チーズ、そしてオイルの香りが絶妙に絡み合い、自然の息吹と手作りの温もりがじんわりと感じられる一杯です。
～ L’evo鶏：地鶏の真髄 ～
薪火の香ばしい香りに包まれたL’evo鶏の足。平飼いで大切に育てられた雛鳥は、じっくりと火を通され、溢れる肉汁が芳醇な旨みを引き立てています。中にはクマの油と内臓の旨みを染み込ませたご飯が詰められ、まさに山の恵みを凝縮したような味わい。和からしのソースがピリッとアクセントになり、鶏の濃厚な風味をより深く感じさせます。熱々の肉を持ち上げ、頬張るたびに大地の力強さが体に染み渡る一品です。
～甘鯛：初秋の海と畑の彩り～
目の前に運ばれた一皿には、ふっくらと揚がった甘鯛が存在感を放ち、その周りを彩るそうめん瓜とマイクロリーフが円環を描き、まるで首飾りのように華やかです。甘鯛にはエビとお米を粉状にした衣がまとわせられ、口に含むとその衣がサクサクと小気味よく崩れ、エビの香ばしい香りが広がります。甘鯛の繊細な旨みが舌の上でほろりと溶け、まろやかで上品な味わいが感じられます。富山海老の卵が添えられ、海の恵みを余すことなく堪能できる一品です。 添えられたカンパーニュは外はカリッと中はもちもちとし、甘鯛の風味を引き立て、噛むほどに素材の美味しさが口の中に広がる、心地よい食感と味わいの調和が楽しめます。
～仔猪（いのしし）：薪火が生み出す芳醇な山の恵み～
目の前に運ばれた仔猪のグリルは、薪火でじっくりと丁寧に火を通され、その肉は驚くほど柔らかく、クセのない豊かな旨みが感じられます。一口噛むごとに、山々の香りと自然の恵みが口いっぱいに広がる贅沢な味わい。猪、鹿、熊の風味が複雑に絡み合う濃厚なビジエソースが、仔猪の滋味を引き立てています。横には天然の舞茸が添えられ、秋の山中を思わせる香りが漂います。さらに、仔猪の下には山椒とナス、エシャロットのペーストが潜み、少し豆の風味も感じられる奥行きのある味わい。ごぼうのペーストがさらに土の滋味を加え、山の景色と一体になるような感覚を味わわせてくれる、心温まる一皿です。
〜ゆうかメロン：森の香り漂う、大人のメロンソーダ〜
グラスの中で輝く、高岡市産ゆうかメロンをたっぷりと使用した大人のメロンソーダ。森の香りを纏った炭酸の泡がそっと立ち上がり、鼻をくすぐります。その下にはなめらかなバニラアイスと冷たくて甘いメロン果肉が層をなし、ジュースとシャーベットが一体となってグラスを彩る。口に含むと、鮮やかなメロンの香りが広がり、深い甘さと爽やかな酸味が炭酸のシュワシュワとともに弾けるよう。ひとくちごとに味わいが重なり合い、まるで森の中で摘みたての果実に出会ったような、自然の息吹を感じる一品です。
〜黒文字：自然の息吹が生きる上品なデザート〜 一皿に広がるのは、村に自生する黒文字の香りが息づくデザート。葉の形をしたサクサクの生地の間に濃厚な黒文字クリームが挟まれ、シロップとパウダーが繊細にかけられています。上には黒文字の葉をくり抜いた小さな葉と、可憐なペンタスの花が添えられ、視覚からも自然を感じさせます。一口頬張ると、生地のパリッとした食感が心地よく、香りが豊かに広がり、クリームとシロップの上品な甘みが余韻を残しながら、口の中で自然の香りが一体となって優しく包み込みます。
〜小菓子：森の恵みを閉じ込めた香り高い余韻〜
目の前に運ばれた四角い木の箱を開けると、森の地面を模したナッツや穀物チップの上に小菓子が整然と並び、まるで森の一部を切り取ってきたような世界が広がっています。エゴマの種を練り込んだフィナンシェは驚くほどクリーミーで、口に含むと香ばしい風味が広がります。フランボワーズとミルクの二層の生キャラメルは、甘酸っぱさと濃厚なミルクのコントラストが印象的。小さな桑のお茶のシューアイスは一口サイズながらもお茶の風味が濃厚です。焼きたてのアップルパイに続き、加賀棒茶のムースタルトが加賀棒茶の香ばしさと共にほのかな甘みを添え、森の香りが全身を包み込むような黒文字のお茶で締めくくられる。自然の豊かさを味わう、贅沢な食後のひとときが心に残ります。
レヴォでの食体験は、まさに森の中に佇む一軒のレストランで、富山の自然を余すところなく味わう贅沢なひととき。シェフの手により、自然の恵みが一つ一つ丁寧に料理に昇華され、どの料理にも地元の息吹と想いが感じられます。山深い地にありながらも、多くの人を惹きつけてやまないこの場所。再び訪れる日を心待ちに、心に深く残る思い出となりました。