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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
札幌の円山公園エリア、閑静な住宅街の中に佇む一軒の寿司屋「鮨菜 和喜智（すしさい わきち）」。場所は北海道札幌市中央区南二条西。地下鉄東西線・円山公園駅から歩いて5分ほど。静かな並木道を歩いていくと、やがて木の温もりを感じる控えめな外観が目に入ります。主張しすぎないその佇まいには、料理人の静かな自信と、札幌という地に根ざす誠実なもてなしの精神が感じられます。
この夜の訪問は、北海道旅行の夕食として選んだものでした。食べログの「The Tabelog Award 2025 Bronze」受賞、さらに「寿司 EAST 百名店 2025」にも選出されていると知り、事前にテーブルチェックにて1ヶ月前に予約を入れておきました。訪れたのは平日の18時。静かに開かれた木の引き戸をくぐると、そこには外の空気とはまるで異なる、穏やかで凛とした空間が広がっていました。
内装は木を基調にした温もりある空間で、一角には、彫刻家・籔内佐斗司さんによる「うなぎ」をモチーフにした作品が、さりげなく置かれています。柔らかな照明がその姿を浮かび上がらせ、空間全体に遊び心と格式が絶妙に同居しているように感じました。今回は職人の手さばきを間近に感じたく、カウンター席を選択。端正に磨かれた白木のカウンターには、これから始まる美食の旅への期待を、さらに高めてくれるような静謐な緊張感が漂っていました。
◆つまみ
・水蛸
・牡蠣と毛蟹の茶碗蒸し
・キンキ（キチジ）と馬糞雲丹
・あん肝と奈良漬の和物
・ノドグロとホワイトアスパラ
・シャコと潤菜の酢の物
・カスベのほっぺの揚げ出し
◆寿司・ご飯もの
・アオリイカ
・マグロ
・トロたく
・鯵
・鰊
・北寄貝
・車海老
・鮑ご飯
・雲丹
・鯛茶漬け
・穴子
・玉子
まずはつまみから始まります。最初に供されたのは「水蛸の刺身」。厚めに切られた水蛸は、半生の絶妙な火入れで、柔らかさの中にしっかりとした弾力を感じさせます。そこへ、塩と削られた柚子の皮がふわりと香りを添えており、口の中でふわっと広がる磯の香りと柑橘の爽やかさが、北の海の清らかさを物語っていました。
続いては「牡蠣と毛蟹の茶碗蒸し」。茶碗蒸しの中には小さく切られた牡蠣が忍ばされ、上には毛蟹の餡がとろりとかけられています。こちらにも柚子の香りが添えられており、一口目から濃厚な出汁の旨みと、牡蠣の滋味深さ、そして毛蟹の繊細な甘みが舌の上で溶け合いました。寒い土地ならではの海の幸を、ぬくもりのある一皿として表現していることに、心がほどけるような感覚を覚えました。
「キンキ（キチジ）と馬糞雲丹」は、この日のベストペアリングのひとつ。皮目をパリッと炙ったキンキの脂の甘みが実に濃厚で、そこに添えられた稚内産の馬糞雲丹がふわりと香りを重ねます。ポン酢と大根おろし、刻んだ芽ねぎが全体を引き締める役割を果たしており、味の層が幾重にも重なるような贅沢な一皿でした。
続いては「あん肝と奈良漬の和物」。ガラスの小皿に美しく盛り付けられたそれは、こっくりとしたあん肝の濃厚さに、奈良漬のシャキッとした食感とほのかな甘みが交わる、大人の味。上からは赤酢を煮詰めたタレがかけられていて、ほんのりとした酸味と甘みが全体を柔らかく包み込んでいました。
「ノドグロとホワイトアスパラ」は、春の香りを感じさせる一皿。皮をパリパリに炙ったノドグロは脂が乗っており、火の通ったホワイトアスパラとのコントラストが絶妙。口に含むと、香ばしさ、甘み、そしてふくよかな香りが重なり合い、横に添えられたスダチがその余韻を爽やかに切ってくれます。
さらに「シャコと潤菜の酢の物」。小さなガラス皿に可憐に盛られたそれは、まるで水面に浮かぶ初夏の花のよう。シャコの旨み、潤菜のぬめりとやわらかさが、程よい酸味と共に舌に染み渡ります。上にはピンク色の可憐な花があしらわれ、視覚からも涼を感じさせてくれる工夫が嬉しい一品。
そして「カスベのほっぺの揚げ出し」。北海道らしい素材であるカスベ（エイ）のほっぺた部分を揚げ出しにし、上には白髪ねぎとカラスミをおろしたものがふんわり。隣には破竹のような細長い筍が添えられ、春と初夏の間を行き交うような季節の移ろいが感じられます。外はカリッと香ばしく、中はぷるんとした弾力、そしてそこに出汁の優しさが重なる、印象深い一皿でした。
ここからは握りへ。まずは「アオリイカ」。ねっとりとした舌触りの中に、ほんのりと甘みが立ち上がる丁寧な包丁の仕事が光ります。
続いて「マグロの漬け」。赤身の旨みがじんわりと染み出す、しっとりとした質感。醤油の香りがしっかり入りながら、決して前に出過ぎず、米の旨みと手を取り合うようなバランスです。
「トロたく」は、手巻き海苔で手渡しされるライブ感が魅力。トロの脂の甘みとたくあんの歯ごたえが、まるで踊るようなリズムを生み出します。
「鯵」は肉厚でもっちりな食感でありながら軽やかな脂と青魚特有の香りが、米の甘さを引き立て、まとまっています。
「鰊」は、上に薄くスライスされた干瓢と薬味が添えられています。この組み合わせが絶妙で、ニシン本来の豊かな旨みを最大限に引き出しつつ、青魚にありがちなクセや臭みを見事に抑えています。
「北寄貝」はさっと炙られており、香ばしさの中にじゅわりと甘みが溢れます。塩と柚子というシンプルな味付けだからこそ、素材の力が引き立ちます。
「車海老」は火入れされ、鮮やかな赤。ぷりっとした弾力とともに、噛むごとにじんわりと甘みが溢れ出します。
そして「鮑ご飯」。小皿に盛られた団子状のご飯には、肝ソースがとろりとかけられ、その上に程よい厚みの鮑。硬すぎず、しかし確かな歯応えを残した鮑の存在感は、まさに主役級。肝のコクと共に、磯の記憶がふわりと鼻から抜けていきます。
「雲丹」は美国産。軍艦で手渡しされるそのスタイルも含め、演出として完璧。口に入れると、まったく臭みがなく、潮の香りがすっと消える。まさに、これまで食べた中で一番の雲丹でした。
締めに「鯛茶漬け」。優しい出汁と、しっとりとした鯛、そして香り高い海苔と胡麻の香ばしさが一体となり、心も身体もほぐれていきます。
最後の「穴子」はふんわりと蒸されていて、口の中でとろけるような柔らかさ。そして「玉」は、甲殻類アレルギーに配慮した優しい蒸し卵。甘すぎず、ほっとするような余韻でコースの幕が静かに閉じました。
素材の力、職人の技、そして静けさと品を備えた空間。すべてが調和した「鮨菜 和喜智」での時間は、まるで札幌の夜に灯るひとつの光のようでした。旅の記憶として、心に深く刻まれる一夜となりました。