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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
地下鉄千林大宮駅を降り、下町らしい人の温もりが残る商店街を抜けると、やがて現れるのは格子戸に暖簾を掲げた小さな佇まい。まるで和食の小料理屋のような外観に、想像のとんかつ屋とは違い戸惑うほどの落ち着きがあります。休日の朝11時、街はゆるやかな空気に包まれていて、私の胸の内も、噂に聞いた“忘れられないとんかつ”への期待で高鳴っていました。予約は1ヶ月前に済ませたもの。ようやく叶ったこの日を、待ちわびるように暖簾をくぐりました。
店内はカウンターのみ。磨かれた木の質感が心地よく、香ばしい油の香りが静かに漂ってきます。すでに二組のお客さんが席についていて、皆どこか柔らかな表情を浮かべています。厨房の奥では、元フレンチシェフというご主人が、気さくな言葉を交わしながらも、火や油と向き合う姿は真剣そのもの。その集中した横顔を眺めていると、ただの食事ではなく“舞台”が始まる前のような、特別な高揚感が湧き上がってきました。
まず運ばれてきたのは、念願の「ささみカツ」。ご主人から「最初は何もつけずに召し上がってください」と促され、一口。驚きで息をのみました。想像していた淡白さや硬さは一切なく、まるで絹のようにやわらかく舌にほどけていく。噛むほどに旨みが広がり、言葉を失った私から「美味しい」「柔らかい」と自然に声が漏れました。その瞬間、隣やその隣のお客さんが「そうやろ、最初はびっくりする」と微笑みかけ、店全体に温かな一体感が生まれたのです。食を介して見知らぬ人とも心が通う、そんな奇跡のような瞬間に胸が熱くなります。
続いていただいたのは、群馬県産「極上三代目まるやま豚」のリブロースカツ定食。残念ながら、心待ちにしていた「TOKYO X」はこの日は用意がなかったのですが、初めて味わうこの銘柄豚が、また新しい世界を見せてくれました。バークシャーとデュロックの二元豚ならではの歯切れとコク。脂身と赤身のバランスが見事で、一口噛むたびに肉汁が口の中に広がります。普段は脂身の多いリブロースを選ぶと後悔することもあるのですが、この日は違いました。脂が重たすぎず、甘みと香りが肉の旨さを一層際立たせ、最後の一切れまで飽きがこない。脂の部分は舌にのせただけでとろりと溶け、赤身はしっかりとした旨みで応える。そのコントラストが美しく、噛むほどに幸福感が増していく一皿です。
味わい方もまた楽しい。まずはそのまま、肉そのものの魅力を確かめ、次にオリジナルブレンドの塩。三種の塩を配合したというこの塩は、強すぎず、あくまで主役を引き立てる脇役のよう。さらに「串かつあーぼん」直伝のからしソースをつけると、さわやかな辛みが旨みを後押しし、肉と見事に調和します。そして最後は、フレンチの技を取り入れた赤ワイン仕立てのとんかつソース。キレのある酸味と深みが口いっぱいに広がり、まるで料理そのものが会話を仕掛けてくるかのように、食べ進めるごとに表情を変えてくれます。
艶やかな白米は、米屋の五つ星マイスターが選んだ精米したて。粒立ちが美しく、噛むほどに甘みが広がって、カツとの相性も完璧でした。赤味噌仕立ての味噌汁は、煮干し出汁と米忠味噌の奥深い旨みが身体に染みわたり、ふっと肩の力を抜いてくれます。サラダのドレッシングも選べて、私は胡麻をチョイス。シャキッとした野菜が口を整え、最後にいただいたハーブティーがすべてをやさしく締めくくりました。
席を立つとき、心の中にひとつの余韻が残っていました。「次は家族を連れて来たい」――そう思わせるのは、料理が美味しいさと、食を通じて心が温められる体験がここにあるからです。街の喧騒を背に外に出ると、胸の奥には、またこの暖簾をくぐりたいという確かな気持ち。千林「とんかつ ふじ井」でのひとときは、私の記憶に揚げたてのまま刻まれていくことでしょう。