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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
具味（ぐみ）
（島根県浜田市／最寄駅：浜田）
JR山陰本線 浜田駅から徒歩15分、駅前からやや離れた国道186号線沿いの住宅地にある「具味」。駅からタクシーでワンメーター程度。
地元の浜田漁港から仕入れた新鮮な魚介を大将のおまかせで味わえる海鮮料理のお店。居酒屋というよりもう少し落ち着いた雰囲気で小料理屋という風情。
料理もドリンクもメニューの類は一切なく、事前に予約する際に食べたい魚を伝えておくか、その日仕入れた魚を刺身や焼き魚、煮魚、天ぷらなどお好みで調理してもらうスタイル。
予算は料理代で1人3000円～4000円が目安で、のどぐろなどの高級魚を食べたい場合は1人5000円ぐらいは見ておいた方がいいだろう。
浜田には旅行や出張で何回か来ていて、駅前の商店街（どんちっちタウン）にある飲食店にはいくつか行ったが、今回は今まで行ったことのないお店に行ってみようと、事前に食べログやGoogle mapでお店を探している中でこちらが気になった。
食べログの点数はそれほど高くないが（2024年4月時点で★3.30）、クチコミの内容はおおむね高評価。食べログのアルゴリズムとして、点数を上げるためには個々のクチコミの評点よりもクチコミの件数の方が重要で、★4.0～4.5が10件投稿されるより、★3.5～4.0が50件投稿される方が全体の点数が高くなりやすい。
都市部にあるお店だとクチコミを投稿する人も多いので点数が上がりやすいが、地方のお店はクチコミを投稿する人が少ないので、どうしても点数が伸にくい。個人的な印象で、地方にあってクチコミ件数は10件ぐらいだが、★3.3～★3.4ぐらいのお店は地元の人たちが通う優良店の可能性が高い。
さらに、こちらのような駅前の繁華街からやや外れた、ギリギリ郊外の住宅地になるかならないかぐらいの場所にポツンと1軒あるお店は、経験的に隠れた名店であることが多い。
駅前でたまたま通りがかったお客さんがふらっと入ってくるような立地でなくとも、長く営業しているということは、わざわざこのお店を目指して来る常連客がたくさんいるということだ。
こちらのお店に目星を付けて、事前に電話で予約。予算は4000円〜5000円ぐらいで魚は浜田のイカとのどぐろが食べたいと伝えておいた。
店内は長いカウンターとお座敷が2部屋ある。入口近くに水槽があり、アワビやサザエ、ナマコの他に、大小の魚が何種類か泳いでいる。職人肌の大将と娘さんの2人でお店を回している。
カウンターに座り、とりあえずビールでスタート。突き出しはのどぐろの肝煮とめかぶの酢の物。のどぐろの肝はこってりした味わいと甘辛い味付けでお酒のアテにぴったり。めかぶの酢の物はポン酢が今まで食べたことがないぐらい美味しくて、どこのメーカーのポン酢か聞いたところ自家製なのだそう。買って帰りたいぐらいだ。
目当てのイカはこの日はヤリイカとコウイカがあるということで、コウイカをお造りにしてもらった。ヤリイカとはまた違ったサクサクした独特の歯応えが絶妙。山陰地方ならではの甘口の醤油も淡白なイカと相性抜群。
お刺身に合わせてお酒を日本酒に切り替え。日本酒は島根や山口の地酒を中心に、日本全国の地酒を色々取り揃えている。
300ml瓶の冷酒の「誉 池月 純米酒 八反錦」をチョイス。島根県中部、広島との県境にある邑南町で創業120年の酒蔵「池月酒造」の銘酒。広島を代表する酒米「八反錦」で醸した純米酒。飲み口は軽く、上品な香り。酸味は少なくまろやかな旨みと米由来の甘みが特徴。
大本命ののどぐろはまずお刺身で。皮目を炙ってあり香ばしい風味と、身は柔らかく脂もさらっとしていて口の中でふわっととろけるような味わい。「白身の王様」と言われるのも納得の美味しさ。
次は大きなサイズののどぐろを一尾丸ごと使って、半身ずつにそれぞれ煮魚と焼き魚にしてもらうことにした。先日浜田の鮮魚店でのどぐろが並べられているのを見たけど、あのサイズだと地元でも一尾3000円～4000円ぐらいの値段はしていた。東京の築地や豊洲なら倍でもおかしくないだろうか。
のどぐろの煮付けは豆腐と一緒に甘めの味付けでふっくら煮てあり絶品。煮ることで身の脂が落ちるので刺身や焼きよりもさっぱりいただける。逆に焼き魚はジューシィな脂の美味しさを堪能できる。レモンとわさびの葉の漬物が付け合わせ。
日本酒が少し余っていたので、アジのお刺身も追加でオーダー。大将いわく浜田のアジもようやく美味しくなってきたそう。浜田港に水揚されるマアジは他産地のものより脂肪含有量が高く、旬（4月～9月）には10％を超え、ときには15％を超えるそうだ（一般のアジは4〜5％）。「アジの大トロ」とも呼ばれ、「どんちっちアジ」というブランド魚になっている。
料理の他に、瓶ビール1本と冷酒(300ml)2本、日本酒1合をいただいてお会計は2人で13000円ちょい。料理代は1人4500円〜5000円ぐらいだろうか。あんな立派なのどぐろを丸ごと一尾食べて他の料理も含めてこの金額は漁師町ならではのコストパフォーマンスだ。