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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
酒亭 久本
（新潟県新潟市中央区／最寄駅：新潟）
新潟駅から車で10分、古くから港町として栄えた新潟の中心街である古町(ふるまち)エリアにある居酒屋「酒亭 久本」。
新潟の古町は花街としても有名で、京都の祇園、東京の新橋と並ぶ「芸妓のまち」として知られていた。最盛期には70軒以上の娼家があり、600人もの娼妓、芸妓がいたという記録もあるそうだ。古町周辺の小路に足を踏み入れれば、現在も花街の風情が残り、地元で愛され続ける老舗の居酒屋が軒を連ねている。
こちらの「久本」もそんなお店の一つで、名物女将の久米幸子さんは「美樹さん」という源氏名で芸妓として活躍し、御年70を超えながら今でも現役としてお座敷に出ているそうだ。
優雅に着物を着こなした女将は背筋をピンと伸ばした堂々とした立ち振る舞いで、女将の所作ひとつでお店全体に凛とした空気が張りつめ、飲んでいる自分も自然と座っている姿勢を意識するほど。池波正太郎の小説に出てきそうな粋な大人の空間。
敬愛する居酒屋探訪家・太田和彦さんの番組でも紹介されているお店。今回、新潟への旅行が決まってすぐに録画しておいた「太田和彦のふらり旅 新・居酒屋百選」の新潟の回を見返して、こちらの「久本」を真っ先に電話で予約しておいた。
店内は1階のヒノキの一枚板のカウンター12席とテーブル席が8席。カウンター席に案内されたが、ちょうど太田和彦さんが番組で座っていた席でちょっと嬉しい。
2階のお座敷には「柳都新興協会」から芸妓さんを呼ぶことも可能だそう。お座敷帰りの芸者衆と旦那衆が飲みに来ることも多いそうで、店内のあちこちに芸妓たちの千社札が貼られている。
料理も絶品で熟練の板前さんによって、上質の食材に丁寧な仕事をほどこした肴を堪能できる。メニューはすべて時価で値段は書いてないのでドキッとするかもしれないが、一般的な割烹や小料理屋と変わらない価格帯。
この日は2人で日本酒を5本、お通しの前菜にお刺身盛り合わせ、ぬかいわし、塩いか天ぷら、かきのもとお浸し、親蟹の甲羅詰め、おつまみ小肌など色々な肴と締めのおにぎりまでしっかり飲み食いして合計18000円ほど。普通に飲んで一人1万円を超えることはないだろう。
●お通し
鯵の和え物、身欠き鰊の粕漬け、しじみ汁の三品。鯵の和え物は酢で締めた鯵と白菜、長芋、生姜、錦糸卵の細切りを合わせて、マヨネーズとポン酢で味付け。身欠き鰊の粕漬けに使う酒粕は「久保田」や「朝日山」でお馴染みの新潟県長岡市の老舗酒造メーカー「朝日酒造」のものだそうで、酒のつまみにぴったりの味わい。
●お刺身盛り合わせ
南蛮海老、釣り鯵、真ハタ、鰹たたきの4種盛り。どれも新鮮でピカピカ。ちなみに南蛮海老の標準和名は「ホッコクアカエビ」で、全国的には甘海老と呼ばれている。色や形が赤唐辛子（南蛮）に似ていることから新潟では昔から南蛮海老と呼ばれているそうだ。サービスで南蛮海老の卵の塩辛も出してもらった。ターコイズブルー系の青緑色でプチプチした食感と塩気が日本酒とベストマッチ。
●ぬかいわし（刺身＆焼き）
ぬかいわしは新潟の山間部では昔から冬の間の保存食として伝承されてきた郷土食。春のうちにたくさん買い付けた鰯を米ぬかとたっぷりの塩で漬け込んで、冬の蓄えとしたそうだ。通常は焼いて食べるが、太田和彦さんがテレビでぬかいわしの刺身を紹介して以来、刺身を注文する人が増えたそう。せっかくなので刺身と焼きのハーフ＆ハーフにしてもらった。塩辛さが強くて少量でお酒が進む味わい。アンチョビのような発酵由来の独特の甘みもある。
●かきのもとのおひたし
「かきのもと」とは食用菊のこと。青紫色の花びらが特徴的な菊で、新潟では江戸時代から食用として親しまれてきたそうだ。新潟市では「かきのもと」、長岡市や魚沼市では「おもいのほか」、山形県では「もってのほか」とも呼ばれるそうだ。酢醤油か出汁醤油から選べるそうで、出汁醤油にしてもらった。通常はからしも添えるそうだが、妻がからしが苦手なので抜きで。シャクッとした歯触りとさわやかな風味が特徴的。口に入れるとふわっと花の香りが広がる。
●塩いか天ぷら
佐渡沖でとれたスルメイカを塩水に漬けて一夜干ししたものを「塩いか」や「塩するめ」と呼ぶそうだ。イカそのものは塩抜きしてあるのでしょっぱくはなく、サクッと揚げた衣の歯触りとプリプリのイカの身の食感が絶妙。
●おつまみ小肌
小肌(コハダ)の酢締めを細切りにしてたくあん漬け、しそ、胡麻と和えた一品。小肌の旨味とコリコリしたたくあんの食感と塩気、しその爽やかな香り、胡麻の香ばしい風味が一体となってたまらない。まさに日本酒のつまみにぴったりの料理。
●いかわたみそ漬
スルメイカの肝(いかわた)を味噌の中に1ヶ月ほど漬け込んで味を染み込ませたという珍味。薄切りにした大根と一緒にいただく。大根の飾り切りを羽ばたく鶴の形にあしらってくれたが、板前さんがサッサと飾り切りを仕上げる包丁さばきはまさに熟練の技だった。
●女カニ甲羅づめ
今の時期ならではの卵を持ったメスのズワイガニ(親ガニ)の甲羅詰め。手作業でむき身にして、ひとつひとつを甲羅へ丁寧に詰め込んで蒸し上げることで、カニの旨みが流れ出ないように調理されている。カニ肉の下にはオレンジ色の内子（卵巣）がついていて、ウニのような濃厚な味わい。カニの"ふんどし"（お腹側の甲羅）にはプチプチした外子（卵）がびっしりとついていて、プチプチした食感がたまらない。
●赤ひげ塩辛
赤ひげとは「オキアミ」のことで、新潟県内では信濃川や阿賀野川の河口で獲れ、伝統的な冬の味覚として食べられてきたそうだ。しょっぱくてご飯やお酒がすすむ味。大根の薄切りに乗せて食べるとちょうどいい塩梅。
●おにぎり
米どころ新潟なので、締めのおにぎりははずせない。具は鮭、すじこ、たらこ、おかか、梅などから選べる。自分はたらこ、妻はすじこをチョイス。ふっくらと三角に握られたおにぎりで大判の海苔はパリパリ。お新香に白菜の浅漬けときゅうりの南蛮漬けもついてくる。