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ランチ1800円。正直、食べる前は「高い」と思った。だが担々麺のひと口が、その認識を鮮やかに覆す。胡麻の香りが立ちのぼり、芝麻醤の絹のようななめらかさが舌を包む。唐辛子の鋭い辛味が切り込み、花椒の痺れが余韻を澄ませる。辛さは鋭利でありながら重くなく、むしろ清涼感すら漂う。鶏ガラと豚骨の出汁が骨格を与え、挽肉の甘みが陰影を添え、複雑でありながら調和の取れた一杯に仕上がっている。小鉢、デザート、ドリンクまで付いて、この価格を「高い」とは言えない。
今回写真に収めたのはこの担々麺だが、以前いただいたジャンローハンも忘れがたい。肉と醤油だれの旨みがご飯に絡み、食欲を直撃する一品だった。担々麺が「哲学する麺料理」だとすれば、ジャンローハンは「本能を撃ち抜く飯料理」。両者とも中毒性があり、気づけばまた足を運んでしまう。
コース料理は季節や仕入れによって変化し、その日だけの特別メニューもある。ワイン、日本酒、紹興酒を合わせれば、食の時間はさらに贅沢に広がる。そして特筆すべきは空間の清らかさ。客層の落ち着きと相まって、心地よく食事に集中できる。店主夫妻の醸し出す雰囲気もまた格別で、気品ある奥様の笑顔が料理の余韻をやわらかく整えてくれる。
仕事頑張って2500円のスペシャルランチを日々のローテーションに加えたい――そう思わせる稀有な中華料理店だ。