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オリジナル布巾 (お持ち帰りOK)
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セッティング
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すっぽんの骨入れ
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食前のお茶
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お酒 (燗)
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≪先付≫ すっぽんの肉のしぐれ煮
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≪先付≫ すっぽんの肉のしぐれ煮
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≪先付≫ すっぽんの肉のしぐれ煮
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≪先付≫ すっぽんの肉のしぐれ煮
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≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (一度目)
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≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (一度目)
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すっぽんのスープ ①
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〇鍋 ①
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〇鍋 ①
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〇鍋 ①
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≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (二度目)
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≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (二度目)
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すっぽんのスープ ②
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〇鍋 ②
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〇鍋 ②
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〇鍋 ②
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ウーロン茶
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香物
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雑炊
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雑炊
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雑炊
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雑炊
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雑炊
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雑炊 (おかわり分)
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雑炊 (おかわり分)
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おこげ ※土鍋の保全を考えて、これ以上は触らずに見るだけ
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≪水物≫ 古都華
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≪水物≫ 古都華
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≪水物≫ 古都華
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食後のお茶
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つまようじ
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店の間
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続き間
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中庭
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奥三の間
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永樂善五郎作 百味會の絵付皿(京焼)
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おみやげ商品
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すっぽん甲羅アート
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厨子二階様式の京町屋の外観
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外観
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常夜燈
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常夜燈
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提灯
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看板
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大市の献立ごあんない
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飲み物メニュー
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川端康成『古都』の一節
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「京名物 〇だいゝち」版画絵 from 「京・北野六番甼 大市」
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大腿骨(後肢)と三つ骨(肩甲骨)
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
元禄年間(1688～1704年)に初代近江屋定八が創業してから330年以上もの長い間、すっぽん料理のお店として十八代も続いている老舗。その建物も創業時のまま、悠久の歴史を随所に感じさせてくれます。
厨子二階様式の京町屋の暖簾をくぐり、玄関、店の間、続き間、中庭を通り、奥の客間へと案内されます。客間は全部で7部屋で、我々が通されたのは「奥三の間」。巨大な松の一枚板の天井、樹齢300年の南天の木で作られたという違い棚の柱、床の間には掛け物と永樂善五郎作「百味會の絵付皿(京焼)」が飾られた趣のあるお部屋です。
大市のすっぽんは、浜名湖で100年以上の鼈養殖の歴史をもつ養殖家「服部中村養鼈場」のすっぽんを使用。ここには50mプール約410個分の面積を誇る大市専用の養殖池があり、自然の沼地に近い環境の天然露地飼育で3年間、冬眠を重ねて育ったすっぽんは、体格も味も上質な天然すっぽんに限りなく近くなるのだそう。しかもお店に運ばれるのは、この膨大なすっぽんの中から選び抜かれたエリートのみ。最後にお店の生け簀で数日餌断ちをして臭みを抜きます。
大市の〇鍋は、コークスによる1,600℃以上の高温で一気に炊き上げて作られます。そんなハードな調理法に耐えうるのは、それ相応な土鍋でないといけません。
高い耐熱性を備えた信楽焼きの分厚い専用の土鍋を、まずはガスで鍛えはじめ、育ってきたところで酒と醤油で鍋自体に味付けを開始。この過程を経てデビューできるのは半分以下という狭き門。大市の〇鍋専用の土鍋として活躍しながらさらに鍋に味がしみ込んでいき、円熟味を増していくのですが、その寿命はわずか3か月ほど。高温調理に耐えきれず溶けて割れてしまうのだそうです。
大市の献立は、○鍋のコースのみ。
飲み物は、ビール各種、お酒、冷酒、シャンパン、梅酒、焼酎、ハイボール、ウーロン茶など。価格は非表示。
○鍋コース・￥２６,０００ (税・サ込)
お部屋に案内されるとすでに食事の支度が整えられていて、食器の上には大市オリジナルの布巾が被せられています。この手触りの良い布巾はお土産としてお持ち帰りできます。お茶をいただいて一息ついたら食事のスタートです。
≪先付≫ すっぽんの肉のしぐれ煮
エンペラ、モモ肉などを生姜をきかせて炊いた上品なしぐれ煮。しっとりとしてやわらかな肉、ふるふるとしてさっぱりと甘い脂身、プリプリとしたコーラーゲンの塊など、部位ごとに特徴があってどれもおいしい。
≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (一回目)
仲居さんが急ぎ足で運んでくれる土鍋は、激しく煮えたぎっています。
中身はすっぽんだけというシンプルな〇鍋。はじめにすばやい手つきでスープだけを取ってくれます。
旨みがあふれて滋味が押し寄せる絶品スープ。酒と醤油と生姜だけなのに、えも言われぬ"旨さ"。
続けて仲居さんが鮮やかな手さばきで取り分けてくれたすっぽんをいただきます。
器の中にはいろいろな部位がバランスよく入っていて、味わい・食感などがバラエティに富んでいてます。骨にわずかな肉も残さないように舐りついていただきます。
≪本料理≫ ○鍋 (二回目)
熱々の○鍋が楽しめるようにと、同じものを二度に分けて出してくれます。
さっき飲んだばかりなのにまた衝撃的に旨いスープ。さっきとは違う部位が入っていてまた新鮮な感動を与えてくれる身肉。続けざまなのに倦むことなく、さっきよりもさらに美味しい○鍋です。
部位別の覚え書き
・エンペラ(黒・白)…プリプリとしたゼラチン質の食感。コラーゲンの塊。
・首肉…キュッと締まった食感、濃い旨み。連なる小骨(頸椎)あり。
・腕肉…可食部分多めで食べ応え・肉感あり。赤身肉の旨み。
・肩肉…やわらかくあっさりな赤身肉。きめ細やかな肉質。三つ骨 (肩甲骨)あり。
・モモ肉…肉付きがよく一番食べ応えのある部位。甘くとろける脂身付き。
・腹肉…プルプルとやわらかな白身肉。
・肝(レバー)…何にも似ていない、例えようもないおいしさ。
・消化器系?…胃か腸かは不明。もっちりとした食感。
・皮…ふるふるとやわらかく、上品な甘み。脂付き。
甘くとろけるような脂身は、脂身なのにすっきりとしたあと味。獣肉・鶏肉・魚肉どれにも例えようのないすっぽんならではの深い味わい。エンペラや腹肉などのコーラーゲンのおかげで唇がプルプルのペタペタ。滋養強壮にも良さそうです。
≪雑炊≫
絶品すっぽんスープの雑炊。丸餅と鶏卵を入れる入れないは選ぶことができます。
こちらもぐつぐつと煮えたぎった状態で運ばれてきて、目の前で卵を混ぜ合わせて仕上げてくれます。濃厚な黄身がごはんを包み、美しい黄金色になったすっぽん雑炊。
すっぽんの旨みを吸って、玉子の旨みをまとったごはん…はい、旨いの確定。中になめらかできめ細やかなおいしい丸餅。雑炊は二人でお茶碗に三膳強ほど。おかわりして全部いただきます。
いかにもおいしそうなおこげもこそげ取って食べたかったのですが、土鍋への負担を考えて眺めるだけに。鍋の淵についたおこげを指でそっとつまんで食べたら予想通りにおいしかった。
≪香物≫
柚子大根、菜の花漬、たくあんの盛り合わせ。熱々の雑炊にはもちろん、お茶請けにもぴったり。なんならこれでもう一本お酒が飲めそうな一皿。
≪水物≫ 季節の果物
この日はブランドイチゴの古都華。みずみずしくておいしいイチゴと食後のお茶で、楽しくおいしかった食事も終了。
お酒・たぶん2,000円くらい
京都伏見で最古の酒蔵・月桂冠を二合徳利で。しぐれ煮、○鍋にぴったり。
お値段は書いてありませんが、思ったよりも良心的。
ウーロン茶・たぶん500円くらい
上品なうすはりグラスで。グラスが違うだけでなんとなくおいしく感じるウーロン茶。
歴史・素材・道具・料理法など、あらゆる面で比類のないすっぽん料理専門店。なによりシンプルに「食べておいしい」大市の〇鍋。ここでしか味わえない食事体験ができます。
【大市のすごいところまとめ】
大市のすごいところ①・歴史
大市のすごいところ②・選び抜かれた上質なすっぽん
大市のすごいところ③・鍛え抜かれた土鍋
大市のすごいところ④・①～③のどれが欠けても成立しない〇鍋