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Vegetable tartlets
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Bordier butter
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Chaud-froid d'ceuf au sirop d'erable vinaigre de Xeres
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Fines ravioles polageres multicolores bouillon fumant
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Gratin d'oignon doux aux jeunes pousses sturon, red baron
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Gnocchis de patate douce Beauregard aux chataignes des Cevennes beurre noisette
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Coquille Saint Jacques d'Erquy fleurie a la verveine petales de radis a d'automne
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Veloute automnal a la sauge officinale creme souffleeco
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Bouquet de homard de Chausey au miel de notre rucher transparence de navet globe
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Tartare pourpre vegetal acidule au raifort betterave de pleine terre
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Grande rotisserie d'heritage Louise Passard eleveurs de nos regions
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Grande rotisserie d'heritage Louise Passard eleveurs de nos regions
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Sucreries
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Paris-Brest aux noix de la noyeraie des Borderies caramel lacte
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店内
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店内
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店内
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外観
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外観
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外観
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外観
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ロダン美術館入り口の斜向いにある3つ星レストラン「アルページュ」を指揮するのは、
天才シェフ、アラン・パッサール。フランス料理界のスーパーシェフの一人である。
1986年に、パッサールの師、ヌーヴェル・キュイジーヌの旗頭だった
アラン・サンドランスから当店を譲り受けています。
10年後の96年には3つ星を獲得。“肉の魔術師”と呼ばれて、
加熱調理の名手としてその名を馳せていましたが、
2000年頃から野菜料理にこだわって、自身の菜園も持ち、
野菜料理のスペシャリストと呼ばれるようになる。
それまでもミシュラン３つ星を数年維持していたが、
野菜のみにメニューを変更しても３つ星を維持し続ける。
パリの3つ星レストラン「アストランス」のシェフ、パスカル・バルボーなど、
多くの優れた弟子を輩出しているのも特徴。
なかなか理解が出来ない料理かも知れないが、彼の元で働いていた
お弟子さんは世界中にいる。
今はコースの中で肉一品と魚一品を出すが、その他は全ての品が野菜。
毎朝自身がオーナーの農園から野菜が届き、その日の献立を考える。
同年代のスーパーシェフは既に自身がお店で先頭に立ち、
料理をすることがほとんどないが、パッサールは数少ない自身で料理をするシェフである。
さて、今回は数年ぶりにこちらをランチで訪問した。
全19皿のティスティングメニューをいただく。
一皿一皿説明するのは割愛させていただくが、味よりもどの皿も
その芸術的美しさにパッサールがシェフではなく、アーティストなのを確信する。
いろいろな味わいの野菜の配分を決めて、合わせていく。
そして、その味わいに対して、ちょうど良い味付けをする。
だがこれらの料理を日本人が理解するのは難しいかもしれない。
欧米人には衝撃な料理だが、我々は野菜を季節ごとに食べるのを
当たり前としており、日本料理には野菜のみで一品を作り上げる料理が無数にある。
そしてバター以外の動物性タンパク質が使われていないため、
これらの皿が続くと正直飽きてくるのも事実。私もそんな一人。
でもどの皿にもパッサールが天才シェフであることを感じ取ることが出来、
唯一無二のシェフであることも。
コースの中で登場する肉及び魚料理を食べるとあまりにもの美味しさに驚き、
彼が何故肉料理を中心に料理を作らないのか理解出来なくなる。
野菜好きなら最高のお店だが、肉や魚を中心に食べたい人には全く向かないお店でもある。
デザートもサービスもシンプルなので、記念日等で使う3つ星ではないかも知れないが、
世界最高峰のレストランであることは間違いない。
でも私はやはり野菜ではなく、パッサールの肉料理を中心に食べたい。
なのでパーフェクトの5点ではなく、4.9点にさせていただきました。