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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
≪再訪≫ 2016/06
相変わらず絶好調の中治劇場。賛否両論別れる店だが、やはり私は好きだ。
・天然の鮎
・天然鰻
・酔っ払い天然車海老(九頭竜で)
・4.5kgの蛸
この日も最高の食材が揃っていた。
がしかし、主役はどの食材でもない。
≪中治 勝≫その人なのだ。
夏の鮨屋は閑古鳥などとはどこ吹く風の満員御礼。
中治大将の人柄、そして、仕事に惚れた客たちで連日カウンターは埋め尽くされる。
この日、一番だったのは鯵。
高級食材がこれだけ揃えられた中で、私は鯵が一番印象に残った。
丁寧に熟成された鯵。それはそれは上品で、噛めば噛むほどに旨味が舌を刺激する。
流石である。
派手なパフォーマンスはこの技術があってこそ。
次は、冬に来よう。
2015/11/26現在 ≪4.42≫ 日本全国全てのジャンルを織り交ぜてもTOP17。
私はこの日、鮨という食文化に対しての認識を改めさせられることになる。
紹介して下さった友人に最大の敬意と感謝を。
友人に導かれたは、蒲田。
名は≪初音鮨≫
頂いたお料理、お飲み物は、最後のかんぴょう巻きと玉子以外は全て、提供順に写真でアップしてある。そちらを参照して頂きたい。
1つ1つの素晴らしさをこと細かに文章にしていては、短編小説くらいの長さになってしまう。割愛する他ない。
(かんぴょう巻きと玉子は、相棒の充電が切れてしまったため惜しくも撮り損ねる)
==============================
≪初音鮨≫は、一種のエンターテイメントである。
これは、この店を論ずるに欠かすことができない要素だ。
鮨屋として、食通を唸らせる用意は万端整っていた。
例えば、大間産の本鮪、香りの高い鱧、蕩ける白子、醤油漬けする必要がないほどの芳醇ないくら、最高級の白トリュフ。数えればきりがない。
しかしながら、そのどれもが主役になり得ない。
大将 ≪中治 勝≫
主役は既に決まっている。
≪初音鮨≫は、カウンターのみ。
この日は、9人の幸運な観客を迎えての中治劇場、上演開始。
まずは、観客全員にシャリを味見させる。
ここで口上。
『このシャリには、まだまだ酢が馴染んでおりません。言ってみれば赤ん坊のシャリでございます。これからどんどん酢が馴染んで成長してまいりますので、大きくなった頃に鮪と合わせてみようかなぁなんて思っている次第でございます』
・・・もう、ワクワクが止まらないではないか。
そして、≪初音鮨≫の最大の特徴は、鮨が全て手渡し。下駄がない。
大将が握り、それはそのまま観客の手に手渡され、そのタイミングで食べるのだ。
それは、大将が口内調味を重視するが故。
『お願いですから、鮨を口の中に入れたら5秒間噛まずに我慢していただきたい。人生の大切な5秒間、どうかお鮨のために下さいませんか。鮨って食べ物は、酢が舌を刺激するんで唾液が出やすい。その唾液と口の中で混ざり合うことで一層旨味を感じられるんです。口内調味、なんて言いますわなぁ』
言われたとおり、鮨ネタが舌の上にくるように口の中に入れる。
5・・・
4・・・
3・・・
2・・・
1・・・
訪れたのは、至福の時間。
唾液が充分に出ているので、旨味成分が分解されるのが早く、舌に馴染む。
私の貧乏舌にも鮨の楽しみ方を丁寧に教えてくれるのだ。
それからはもう、店を出るまで大将の手の平の上で転がされっぱなしなのである。
食事が始まるまで、食べ方やペースくらいこっちで決めさせてほしいと思っていた自分すらすっかり忘れている。
この日、特に秀逸だったのは
牡蠣・・・甘く、芳醇。間違いなく人生で1番の牡蠣。
いくら・・・臭みが全くなく、生ものであるにも関わらず上品さすら覚える。間違いなく人生で1番のいくら。
鱧・・・香りの高い鱧があるだなんて知らなかった。間違いなく人生で1番の鱧。
白子と白トリュフ・・・濃厚な白子と香りの高い白トリュフを合わせる感性は見事と言う他ない。間違いなく人生で1番の白子。
玉子・・・目を閉じて食べたら、きっとカステラだと思っただろう。
同席した観客の1人が、私と同じ気持ちだったらしくこう言った。
こんないくらは人生で初めてだと。大将はこう返す。
『他の鮨屋と同じことしてちゃあ、初音鮨なんて言えませんわなぁ』
天晴れだ。
大将と女将は仲睦まじく微笑ましい。
しっかりと場をリードしてくれながらも頭を低くされていて、非の打ち所がない。
極上の料理を口にした満足感。
テンポの良い映画を観た後のような爽快感。
良質な舞台に出会ったような充足感。
なんと表現して良いのかすらわからない。
ただただ、鮮やか。
その日、店を最後に出たのは我々であった。
そのときに私は、自身の心情に驚く。
子供のようにまだ帰りたくないとそう願っていた。
こんな鮨屋は、初めてだ。