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長らく訪問を心待ちにしていたAca。
スペイン料理を軸にしながらも、日本の食材や和の感性が随所に織り込まれた独自の世界観は、期待を軽やかに超えてきました。
スタートは、スモークバター。芳醇な香りで一気に空間が満たされ、最初の一皿から期待感が高まります。スナップエンドウのカルドソをバターのついたスプーンでいただきます。
続くボカディージョ仕立てのコハダはACAのジグニチャー。パンの香ばしさと魚の旨み、そこにディルが清涼感を添え、早くもこの店の「間の取り方」に惹かれていきます。
魚料理では、薪焼きの金目鯛が印象的。皮目の香ばしさと身のジューシーさ、山菜やハーブの清涼感が、春の野山を思わせる一皿でした。
そこからの流れも見事で、稚鮎のフリットはビネガーの酸味とふわりと削られたホエイが絶妙なコントラスト。揚げ物でありながら驚くほど軽やかです。
続くホワイトアスパラとアホブランコは、ほのかな苦味とナッティなコクが好相性。火入れによって引き出されたアスパラの甘さが印象に残ります。
その後の温皿、フカヒレと海老のアヒージョ風はスペインと中華のエッセンスが融合したような濃厚な一品。香り高いオイルに海鮮の旨味が凝縮されていて、ここでサーブされたシェリーのようなワインとの組み合わせも秀逸でした。
そしてメインの肉料理は二段構え。
まずは黒毛和牛のヒレ。ブロック状にカットされた赤身は、低温で火入れされた柔らかな肉質と、ワインソース、焼き芋の甘みが三位一体に。
次に登場したのは、神戸牛サーロイン(かぶり)。脂と赤身のバランスが見事で、塩・胡椒という極限まで削ぎ落とした味付けに、肉そのものの力を見せつけられます。
毛蟹のパエリアは東シェフ自らサーブくださいます。大ぶりの木製ボウルに爽やかなレモンとともに供されるこの一皿は、濃密な肉料理の後でも重さを感じさせず、次の展開への橋渡しとしても秀逸。
デザートは3皿構成。まずは氷の上にのせられたメロンで一息。
続いて登場したのは、富山の山羊ミルクアイスにオリーブオイルとピスタチオ。甘さ、塩味、脂のコクが共鳴し合うユニークな構成で、印象に残ります。
最後はブラジル産チョコレートのガトー仕立て。ナッツやドライフルーツがアクセントとなり、静かにコースの幕を引いてくれました。
全体を通して、シェフの美意識と火入れの精度の高さ、そして静かに心を揺さぶるような構成力に圧倒されました。落ち着きある料理の構成力のバランスが心地よく、次の一皿が自然と待ち遠しくなる、そんなコースでした。