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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
近所に「ここだ」と思える寿司屋がなかなかなく、継続的に通える店を探していたところ、こちらの評判を聞き訪問。
■ ロケーション
三軒茶屋からバスで日大前、そこから徒歩4〜5分。三軒茶屋駅から歩くと徒歩20分程度か。立地は決して便利とは言えないが、「この鮨を食べに行く」という明確な目的があれば距離は問題にならない。
大将は銀座の名店はっこくで修行後に独立。おつまみとサービスは奥様が担当し、ご夫婦二人三脚のカウンターには穏やかな空気が流れる。
「なぜこの場所で？」と尋ねると、「この辺にもともと住んでいた」という率直な答え。結果として、喧騒から距離を置き、料理に集中できる環境が自然に選ばれている。
■ この日の構成・かに茶碗蒸し
・たこ、ぶり刺身
・さわらにぎり
・すみいかにぎり
・かます 胡麻醤油 焼き物
・あじ にぎり
・赤身漬け
・中トロ
・こはだ
・くるまえび
・金目鯛 山芋
・うに 手巻き
・あなご
・とろたく 手巻き
・干瓢巻き
・黒ごまのアイス、がり生蜂蜜がけ
■ 印象
シャリは赤酢で、かなり硬めの炊き加減。これがこの店の核。一粒一粒の輪郭が明確で、咀嚼するほどに旨みが立ち上がる。ネタを支える存在に留まらず、米そのものが一つの主張を持っている。
白身は温度と切り付けで輪郭を立たせ、光り物は締めの角度が端正。赤身漬けから中トロへの流れは重心が低く、コースの軸がぶれない。
かますの焼き物は胡麻醤油で香ばしさを加えつつ、後半に重さを残さない設計。
車海老は反りと温度が美しく、穴子は甘さを抑えた煮詰めで静かに締まる。
手巻きは海苔の香りを主役に、最後まで米の硬さが崩れないのが印象的。
■ サービス
日本酒、ワインともに料理に寄り添うセレクション。女将さんのチョイスが素晴らしい。距離感のあるサービスも心地よく、つい杯が進んでしまう。過度に主張せず、食事の流れを邪魔しない点も好印象。
■ 総評
立地の不便さを理由に評価を下げる店ではない。
米・温度・切り付けという基本に真正面から向き合い、派手さよりも積み重ねで勝負する鮨。
「通える寿司屋」という視点でも十分に成立。