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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
部屋食のあさばさんの料理はシンプルで奇を衒うことなく、良質な厳選された素材を使いながら、華美なところがなく、削ぎ落として、料理の素材の味に忠実で、熱いものを熱く、夜のみならず、朝もその基本に忠実に一つ一つの客先に料理人と仲居さんと、中継の係の人との連携で見事にそのクオリティを実現してくれる。
この削ぎ落とした滋味溢れる料理を能舞台の静かな風景を見ながら滝の音を聞きながらゆっくり食べる。早く食べる僕が心がけてゆっくり食事をしたのだけど、それでも早かったようで、仲居さんは大忙しだったと思う。器のことについていろいろ質問したり面倒な客だったかも知れないけど、若い仲居さんなのに本当に心を尽くしてくれて、心地よい静かな時間を過ごす事ができる。腕の確かな料理長の仕上げる料理に、社長の達筆なお品書き、翌朝は散歩から帰って来るとラウンジでとっても素敵な女将がご挨拶に来て沢山会話できたり、車の送り出しも皆さんで丁寧に下へも置かぬ歓迎ぶりは見事な接遇でした。微に入り細に入り徹底したお客さんを喜ばせて返してくれるこの素敵な接遇が料理の味や温度にもしっかり宿っていて感激する事が沢山あるのがこのあさばの素晴らしさ。
現代の超一流どころの能楽師が舞るこの能舞台また帰って来よう、次は能の日にしたいと思わせる。
料理も美味しいのだけど、料理だけの味を味わうセンスでこちらには行かないで欲しい。
ここに行く時は味覚、聴覚、視覚、嗅覚、肌感覚全てを鋭敏に澄まして味を聴く感覚があると料理も五感で楽しむものだとわかると思う。
器はあさばの伝統的に使ってきたようなものが多く使われているようで、どの窯、どの地方などもあまり把握できない状況とのこと、昔荒物だったものも混じるし、でも今となっては風情のあるものや、今の輪島の漆器などもあり、それはそれなりに楽しむ事ができる。文様については把握できるものが多いようだけど530年以上十代目を数える現在のご主人の代にもなるとそれは全て伝わるわけはない。何せ1484年に宿坊を起源とする宿で松崎にある戸袋の龍の漆喰は長八の作品であさばの時代を経ての名旅館への歴史はその積み重なるストーリーだけでも深遠。
多くの神社に伝わる神事ですら特別なイベント、祭事にまつわる事は記録されているが日常の記録が無く、行いの変化と維持とこの代に何を変えていくのかの記録がとっても大切になる、伝える、繋ぐ、継ぐ、革新する、変化すると言う凄みを肌で感じる。
個人的にアルコールに弱い僕が楽しむには、例えばワインが三杯ペアリングセットや、バラエティを楽しむような方法が選択できるとあまりアルコールが強くない客も楽しむ事ができるのにと思った。まあ、それも現代的な方法ではあるので昔ながらの美を愛する人たちには余りそぐわないやり方になり、奇を衒う手法になるのかも知れないな…。確かに僕もサンペリグリーノで充分ではあるけど。
つけ添えるとほうじ茶も素晴らしく美味しかった。
それから朝食もシンプルながら心に残る朝食でした。