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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
見事だった。ちょうどシーズンも良かったのか、北海道の食材も使い江戸前の仕事をする素晴らしい鮨だった。
「久兵衛」で修行し、銀座の「とかみ」の店主を5年も務め上げ、独立前には「しのはら」でも勉強してきて、寿司フリークの間でも「しょう太さん、しょう太の鮨」と言われ続けた勉強熱心な探究心あふれるしょう太の寿司はやはり美味しかった。
印象に残ったのはシャリを数種類変えて握り、細かな温度管理も含めてその変化に気づくものだけに与えられた違いを認識することのできる圧巻の美味い寿司。ただ、美味いとかのシンプルな表現だけでは圧倒的にもったいない気がする。その温度が違う違いやネタに手をかけた仕込みは全ては口に入れて数秒間味わう鮨の味わいが頂点を極めるため、その余韻まで感じる五感を開いた感じ方が必要だ。
その中でももちろんマグロの見事さは東京で握っていた時にもまして素晴らしかったことと、数種類季節の北海道ならではのネタや食材も出してしっかり仕事をした江戸前の寿司を食べさせれけれる事。何度も言うけど試行錯誤の末に生まれた最高の握りとつまみ。
北海道らしさで印象的だったのはチップとホッカイシマエビ、鮑やツブ貝を仕上げた見事な器で出してくれた水貝だった。
チップはヒメマスの陸封型で海に降りて行った降海型のものはベニザケと呼ばれる。支笏湖で巨大に育ったヒメマスの見事に熟成させて口溶けて行く鮨。さすがだったー。
ホッカイシマエビの鮨は印象的だった。二尾一緒に握っていたのは海老洞穴(偕老同穴)カイロウドウケツと言う夫婦になった海老は死ぬまで同じ穴に暮らすという故事にちなんで出してくれたのだろう。そのさりげなさも素敵だった。それより何より柔らかいながらなんとも言えない歯応え、この素晴らしい食感と、香ばしくも嫌味ない見事な香り、二尾分のネタに上手にシャリがバランスよく、唸ってしまった。最強だった。
水貝は秀逸だった。器を作るプロセスを目の前で仕上げてくれて、その涼やかな楽しみと贅沢な貝尽くしの季節の楽しみにも心底楽しめた。
マグロの見事さはやはり寿司の楽しみ、これは全国的にルートがないとそう簡単にはいいマグロは手に入らない。
いいマグロをセリで高値でも落とすためにはそれを買ってくれる高級寿司店へ卸すネットワークの構築が必須だ。
例えばマグロの山幸、さらに広告を一切しない海苔の田庄はこう言う背景をもっている。
そしてそのマグロ。突先から始まるご挨拶のようなスタートは健在で、中トロの部位を背中と腹側と、大トロももちろん、赤身はさすがのヅケで。
一つ一つの握りを香りや味わい、歯応え、とろけ感など違いを感じながら食べるのはこんなに楽しいし、鋭敏になった感覚にビシビシと刺さる。感性の極みを味わう。
北海道でのしょう太さんの鮨は銀座で握っていた時より自立的で、周りを大事にしながら、奥様との連携も見事にメンバーも輝きながら本当に素晴らしい鮨体験を送れる見事な店だった。