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荒井シェフ
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ペアリングにて
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
一軒家の扉を開くと、着物のマダムが静かに迎え入れてくれた
その所作を見た瞬間、この店がフレンチである以前に
”営むという行為そのもの”を丁寧に積み上げてきた場所だということが分かった
料理人の技術は、結果として皿に現れる
だが、その背後にある工程は単純ではない
仕入れの精度、火入れの再現性、タイミングの誤差、
スタッフの動きのばらつき、気温と湿度の変動
この店は、それらすべてを毎日のコースの
前提条件として抱え込んでいる
世界中から届く食材は、希少性よりも扱いの難しさの方が先に立つ
原価の高さは、料理の保証にはならない
素材を価値へ変換できるかどうかは、
最終的に”誰がそこに立っているか”で決まる
経営にも同じ構造がある
環境要因や景気よりも、
その場にいる人間の判断と覚悟が、
最終的な結果を左右するのだ
この店には、綺麗事がない
余計な理屈もない
あるのは、続けるための作業の積み重ねだ
作業は孤独で、地味で、誤魔化しが効かない
客側がどう受け取るか以前に
店側が逃げないことが前提になっている
ひとさらひとさらに緊張が走るのは、
そこに努力ではなく、責任があるからだ
責任は、華やかでもないし、語っても価値にならない
ただ、店を持つ者だけが理解する、
重いが必要不可欠な重力のようなものだ
オマージュは、その重力の下で正確に動いている
それだけで十分だし、それ以外は本質ではない
店は、理念や物語によって評価されるべきではない
毎晩の運用が破綻せず、皿が客の目の前に届く、それがすべてだ