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外観
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店内
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店内
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お庭
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どくだみ茶
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梅酒のソーダ割り
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八寸
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八寸
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お造り
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お造り
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器
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鯉の白子
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炭火
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炭火
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出汁
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野菜
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野菜
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野菜
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熊
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熊
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出汁と熊
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熊
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薬味
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鍋を
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鍋
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鍋
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一口目
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鍋
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鍋
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猪肉
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猪肉
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熊肉
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白味噌に
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猪肉は白味噌で
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猪肉を投入
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猪肉
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猪肉と葱
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クレソンを
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栃餅
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栃餅を投入
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栃餅
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ご飯投入
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ご飯投入
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雑炊
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香の物
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山芋を投入
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この粘り
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雑炊に
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出来上がり
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川のりと
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柿のアイスクリーム
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柿のアイスクリーム
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
こちらのことは、十数年前から聞いていましたが、
遠いうえ、肉の脂があまり得意ではない私には、皿に美しく盛り付けられた
白い熊脂のビジュアルはあまり魅力的には見えませんでした。
しかし、周囲から評判を聞くにつれ、興味津々に。
そもそも、熊肉は古来から食用にされ、その脂は、融点が低く、
ものすごくいい出汁がでるだではなく、
滋養強壮効果も高い、とのこと。
そればかりか、コラーゲン豊富で、お肌ぷりっぷりに。
動物性蛋白質だけでなく、食物繊維とビタミンも豊富とか。
もう、これは行くしかありません。
そんなとき、幸運にもいいお誘いを頂戴しました。
京都駅から車で１時間半ほど。
山村の中の立派な日本家屋で、エントランスには、「山の辺料理」と書かれています。
広い座敷に、テーブル席が。
まずは、女将のご挨拶から。
梅酒のソーダ割りをいただきながら、いよいよスタートです。
ワクワク！！
まずは、ドクダミ茶
１、先付 琵琶湖産たてぼし貝のお浸し
初めて食しました。食感がいい貝です。
鮎の熟れ寿司
酸味の塩梅が素晴らしい。
あおぼしぜんまいの寿司
これもお初にいただきました。
みず
鹿のロースト
もろこ、むかご、銀杏、川海老、松茸の佃煮風
２、お造り 鯉 庭の清水で泥を吐かせた極上な鯉
酢味噌で
鰻の焼き霜
紅化粧大根
黄人参
高島のゆるぎ蕪
黒皮茸
ツマまで珍しいものばかり
３、鯉の白子蒸し 白子はいろいろ食べてきましたが、鯉の白子・・は
これも初。 とろりまったりですが、後味あっさり。
香茸の餡と香茸 さすが、和製トリュフだけあり、
香りと旨味が素晴らしい。
４、月鍋 さ～～～て、いよいよ、あの何度も写真で見た、
脂身が花のように咲いた大皿が登場。
盛り付けが実に美しいです。
今回は、湖北、長浜で獲れたツキノワグマ。
ここからは、大将がつきっきりで、鍋を仕立ててくれます。
大将は、こまめに手を動かしながらも、熊について
いろいろなことを話してくれました。
目下、近畿エリアでは、滋賀と兵庫のみが狩猟許可地域。
最近、熊が里に降りてきて、被害が多いが、実は、
いい熊を確保するのは、毎年悩み・・だそう。
というのも、ハンターの高齢化、その技量などが原因。
良質な熊の条件は、その個体そのもの、玉の当たり方、
血抜きの方法、捌き方、で決まります。
いただく部位は、背中。雄雌はあまり関係なく、
個体の大きさも５０～１００ｋｇくらい。
冬眠に入る前の時期が脂が豊富。
さて、鍋に注がれた出汁に、一切れ目が投入されます。
ありがたいことに、それを私がいただくことに。
一口、感想。 「甘い」。 えもいわれぬ熊脂から
の自然な甘みが口中一杯に広がります。
この瞬間、私の不安は、すべて払拭されました。
これは、どの動物の脂ともまったく別物。
食べ続けても、脂むせのようなことはなく、
後味も、さらさら。 フシギです。
大将は、熊脂をきちんと人数分、数えて投入し、
その合間に、原木なめこ、天然芹、葱、
雑茸（猪口茸、なめ茸、虚無僧、しめじなど）
を。
熊肉の焼物も登場。
５、猪肉 出汁を白味噌に変えて、今度は、猪肉を。
こちらには、クレソンを。
臭みはまったくない猪肉で、白味噌仕立ての
出汁に、猪のエキスが加わり、これまた旨味たっぷり。
６、栃餅 猪を食べ終わった白味噌に、栃餅を入れ、
雑煮に。 栃の香ばしさが美味。
７、長芋雑炊 これまた、驚きました。
白味噌出汁に、ご飯をいれたあと、長芋を入れるのですが、
この長芋の粘り方が半端なく、傾けてもなかなか
落ちません。 この雑炊、食べ終わるまで、言葉に
ならず、ひたすら唸っていました。
８、柿のアイスクリーム 柿のソースをかけて。
冬いちご
いやはや、こうして書いていると、あのときの、旨味が脳内に蘇り、
無性にお腹が空いてきます。 罪作りな月鍋です。笑
実は、この日の前日、食べすぎで、かなり胃が不調だったのですが、
熊と一口いただいた途端、なんと、胃が復活。
う～～～～ん、熊パワー、オソルベシ。
同席のメンバーも楽しい方ばかりで、終始、なごやかに、
熊の旨味を共有させていただき、実に心に残る日となりました。
取り仕切っていただいた幹事様の多大なるご苦労のおかげと、
この場をおかりして、お礼申し上げます。