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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
今年7月、グルメな知人にお誘いいただいて新富町の「味幸」に訪問してきました。
店主の南幸博氏が2019年に西健一郎氏の死去によってお店を閉めた「京味」時代の兄弟子、郡司智裕の「味ひろ」で腕を振るった後に2022年10月にオープンしたお店になります。
「京味」出身のお店には「くろぎ」や「星野」など超名店が多くありますが、「京味」から一字とった「味ひろ」はまた特別な店名。
そして「京味」、「味ひろ」と京味の流れを引き継ぎつつ、自身の名前「南幸博」の一字が融合した「味幸」は、正に「京味」のDNAを受け継ぎ、独自の解釈をそこに加えたお店ということになり、満を持しての独立というわけです。
当然、訪問前からテンションが上がっており、前日から味の濃いものを控え、食事の量を抑えて当日夜に備えます。
予約の18時にお店へ。店舗は1階部分がコンクリート打ちっぱなしの素地に、引き戸周辺は黒のシックな外観に、浮かび上がる店内からの明かりが美しいコントラストで、見るからに名店の様相を呈しています。
店主の南幸博氏はキレイに剃り上げられた頭が一見強面、しかし表情からは優しさが伝わってきます。
席について、まずはビール。酷暑の中、よく冷えたビールが身体中に染み渡りながらコースのスタート。この日の内容は以下の通り。
南高梅の甘露煮・・・甘酸っぱさとその奥から南高梅の味わい深さが押し寄せてきます。
鯵の寿司・・・アジの表面が美しく、お米の断面も綺麗。何とも美しい棒寿司です。そして口に入れると見た目を超える旨みが広がります。
虎杖のきんぴら・・・イタドリは高知県や和歌山県など西日本で食べられる郷土料理。根は漢方薬にもなる美味しく健康的な山菜です。
胡麻豆腐・・・炒っていない生のゴマを擦って絞った豆腐。香ばしい香りはなく、まろやかな感じに仕上がった極上胡麻豆腐です。器も料理のイメージにピッタリのチョイスです。
鱧の焼き霜・・・皮をサッと焼いくことで香ばしくなる一方、身は柔らかさを保たれたコントラスト。擦りたての山葵を乗せていただくと、質の高い山葵の香りと辛さとハモの身の甘さのコントラスト。実に美味しい。
玉蜀黍のすり流し・・・この時期ならではの一品で、上品な甘みが最高です。トッピングされた粒も甘みが強く美味しい。
八幡巻き・・・熊本八代の天然鰻を使った八幡巻き(やわたまき)で、しっかりと施された下処理によりゴボウとウナギの相性がとても良く、ウナギの濃厚な美味しさとゴボウの食感のコントラストが堪りません。
雲丹茄子・・・茄子の田楽の上にウニを乗せた一品。トロッと柔らかく、田楽味噌の甘みとコク、ウニの上質な美味しさ。柔らかな素材が口の中で溶けて一体化していきます。素晴らしく美味しい。
白甘鯛とオコゼのお造り・・・白甘鯛は乗りすぎない適度な脂が口の中で上品な旨みと甘みを感じさせてくれます。オコゼはコリっと歯ごたえ、咀嚼を続けると仄かな甘みが広がっていきます。高級魚の共演、見事な一皿です。
賀茂茄子と鱧のお椀・・・ここでもハモをいただけました。出汁を吸った柔らかな賀茂茄子の美味しさと、しっかり骨切りされたハモのフワフワした食感。ベースのお出汁がお椀としての美味しさをしっかりと底上げしてくれています。建物もそうですが、基礎の大切さですね。
鮎 ・・・一度出てきた焼いた滋賀県安曇川のアユ、それを手元に提供され、実物を確認してから下げて頭と骨を抜いて身だけで再度提供され、蓼酢をつけていただきます。蓼酢の酸味と苦味がアユの腑の苦味とも相性が良く、アユの旨みと甘みが引立ちます。
続いてアユの身から抜かれた頭と骨、それを揚げて香ばしく調理されています。アユの香りと食感、頭から食べるのが苦手な人も、これなら完食できるであろう美味しさ。
もずく酢・・・上に白瓜、バチコが乗った一品。胃が洗い流されるようなサッパリとした一品。
枝豆のひろうす・・・関東でいう「がんもどき」は関西では「ひろうす」と呼ぶようです。水切りした豆腐に刻んだ野菜などを混ぜ込んで油で揚げたものがお出汁に入っての提供。
豆腐の自然な甘みが揚げることで引き出され、中の具材とお出汁と絶妙な調和が楽しめます。
お食事
鱧まぶし・・・ひつまぶし、かと思ったらハモを使ったものでした。調理法を変えて蒲焼にしているので、ハモのまた普段とは異なる美味しさを堪能できました。
鮭ハラスご飯・・・家庭料理でも出てきそうな、しかし美味しさは隔世の感があります。お米が絶妙に美味しく、鮭の塩っけ、そして揚げた皮がポイントですね。鮭は皮にその美味しさが凝縮されています。家庭では皮だけを揚げる一手間は決してかけられないと思います。
昆布とろご飯・・・漫画「美味しんぼ」で「京味」の西健一郎氏が作り、一同絶賛していた一品。食材自体はシンプル、しかし食材自体の質と調理法にこだわりきって美味しさを追求し、たどり着いたご飯。
美味しさについて再考させられる一品です。
卵かけ昆布ご飯・・・昆布とろご飯で使った昆布を、佃煮にしてその上に卵黄を乗せた一品。旨みの強い昆布に卵黄のコク、TKGとは卵、昆布、ご飯が正解なのかもしれない。
牛時雨煮ご飯・・・美味しすぎて5種類用意してある食事は全ていただきました。最後の時雨煮ご飯は間違いない分かりやすい旨み。ご飯5杯も食べたのでお腹はパンパンです。幸せです。
水羊羹・・・口に入れると水のように溶ける、和食の超一流店で食べられるアレですね。
全体として、日本の和食の数少ないトップ集団の一角であることが間違いないと思います。素材と調理、サービスに雰囲気。すべてにレベルが高く突き抜けた存在だと思います。
食事をするときは勿論ですが、このレベルのお店の口コミを書くときには、お店に失礼のないよう、コンディションを整えて訪問時のことを写真と動画から思い出して書くので非常に体力を使います。
しかし、このレベルのお店には当然の労力、また訪問したい名店ですね。