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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
今年3月にグルメな知人からお誘いを受けて訪問した中目黒の「東山無垢」。今年の発表でミシュラン1つ星を獲得して名実ともに名店の仲間入りを果たしたお店になります。
2023年オープンなので、訪問時はまだ開店から1年経過していなかったタイミングでしたが、すでにその頃から予約は数ヵ月待ち状態の人気店でした。
店主の三島立己(みしま たつみ)氏は高専を出て機械メーカーのエンジニアで設計をしており、それから25歳で料理の世界へ入った異色の経歴の持ち主。
約10年地元島根や東京の日本料理店で修行をした後、2016年に横浜鶴見の「日本料理鶴寿」の開店と同時に店主を務めるに至ります。
そして2023年に独立してこちらの店舗のオープンへとつながっていきます。
中目黒駅から徒歩で約10分。途中で「パティスリー カカオエリオット・パリ」でスイーツを買うのを忘れず、予約の時間に訪問。
店内は白を基調とした清潔感のある雰囲気でカウンター8席。
コースはおまかせのみで訪問当時は15,000円、今でも税込19,800円と、このクラスのお店としてはほぼ最安値レベルではないでしょうか。
席についてビールで乾杯、コースのスタートです。内容は以下の通り。
新玉葱のすり流し・・・淡路の新玉葱を出汁で1時間炊いてすり流しにしたもの。優しい甘味の玉ねぎが絶妙に美味しく、上に乗った生の胡椒の穏やかな辛みが心地よいアクセント。
北寄貝・・・うるい、黄韮、こごみを添えて、生姜のゼリーをかけたもの。鮮度がとても良いホッキ貝の甘味と旨味、春の山菜3種の主張を抑えた味わいのバランスが良いです。
車海老の真薯のお椀・・・ふんわりと軽い食感の真薯にクルマエビの甘味と食感。お出汁がとても上品な美味しさです。つい「美味しい」と口に出したら、三島さんが「ありがとうございます」と(笑)。
金目鯛・・・勝浦産のキンメダイ、皮目を炭火で炙って中はレア、ちり酢をからめていただきます。炙った皮の香りと食感、キンメの美味しさが素晴らしいです。「ビックリするくらい美味しい」と言ったら、三島さんも「今日のは凄く美味しいと思います」とのこと。
虎河豚の白子・・・炭火で炙ったフグの白子、その下にはタケノコの飯蒸し。混ぜてリゾットのようにしていただきます。濃厚で、味わい豊かな白子、飯蒸しがまた素晴らしく良く合います。
桜鱒・・・北海道産のサクラマスで、金柑と花山葵の醤油漬け添え。照り焼きで表面の皮目がパリッと食感、良い香りがして、身は旨味が豊か。これも美味しいですね。
すっぽんの唐揚げ・・・唐揚げは大好きな食べ物の1つですが、唐揚げにすることで、濃厚な旨味が閉じ込められるすっぽんは最高の食材です。
衣の食感にすっぽんの旨味、そして栄養価。完璧な料理です。幸せ。
うすい豆の土鍋御飯・・・見た目はグリーンピースに見えますが、粒が大きく甘味が強いうすい豆と一緒に岐阜のお米「龍の瞳」を炊いたもの。
炊き立ての「竜の瞳」も美味しいですが、うすい豆の香りが鼻から抜けて口にはほのかな甘味ある美味しさを残します。
カレーライス・・・具材を入れずにカレーとライスのみでの勝負。シンプルに美味い。おかわり欲しいけど、これはダメでした。
ちなみに、こちらのカレーを「なぜカレー？」と疑問を持つ方もいるようですが、九段下の「水右衛門(虓)」でも、遊び心でナポリタンを出したりします。達人ならではの遊び心ということだと認識しました。
いちご・・・「とちあいか」を作っている生産者の中でも特に良いとされる栃木県七ツ石のもの。完熟で、強い甘味と酸味のバランスが良く、輝く赤が美しい。これをいちご狩りでいっぱい食べてみたい。
アイスクリーム・・・島根県木次(きすき)乳業のミルクを使ったアイスクリーム。雑味のないとっても美味しいアイス。ハーゲンダッツのタカナシ乳業に並ぶ品質だと思います。
金平糖・・・最後は島根県産の松浦珈琲のコーヒーを飲みながら、コンペイトウをカリカリして食事の余韻に浸ります。
全体として、素晴らしいお料理たちでした。今回は地元島根県の食材を多数取り入れてのメニューの組み立て。食材の良さをしっかりと引き出して、更に磨き上げた料理の数々、堪能させていただきました。
料金を上げようと思えば倍にしてもお客さんは付いてくるでしょう。それを敢えて抑えた価格で勝負し続けるのは、頭が下がります。
ミシュランの審査には価格とのバランスも調査項目にしっかり入っています。「東山無垢」を考える際、価格のバランスは考慮するべき重要な要素ですね。
気を衒わないお料理を提供するお店なので、こちら側も気を衒わず味わえば良いと思います。
シンプルに素晴らしい料理をいただける名店、そういうことだと思います。
とても良いお店でした。是非また訪問したいですね。