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雨に煙る静岡浅間神社
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贅沢なアプローチです
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角度を変えてみました
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待合室の外看板
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待合室のでっかい石
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待合室でお茶を入れていただきました
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1611年にスペイン国王から徳川家康に寄贈された時計。なんでここにあるんや？静岡県の強力なバックアップが伺えます
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美しい丸折敷
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外には鳥居が
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揚げた天種を乗せる陶器のお皿
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山葵を摺りおろして包丁で叩く志村氏
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最初はサッポロの黒
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静岡産のトウモロコシの冷製スープ
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クエを盛り付ける志村氏
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クエです。低温の油にくぐらせ薪で炙りました
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クエ。薪の薫香と山葵の清冽な香りでいただきます
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ジンドウイカを盛り付ける志村氏
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ジンドウイカです
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ジンドウイカです。上が軽い炙り。下が藤枝の酒蔵、杉錦漬け
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宮崎の作り手のシャルドネです
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この宮崎のシャルドネは世界に通用すると思います
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天ぷらの準備です。大根は鬼おろし。天つゆは柔らか目
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潮です。左がマルドン、右が沖縄のマース
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次いでソーヴィニョンブランへ
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太刀魚です。皮目には大葉があてられていました
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太刀魚のドアップ。天つゆに直接乗っけます
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障泥烏賊。まるで求肥のような食感
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塩のお皿に障泥烏賊を置きました。人の顔に見えるかな？
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朝どれのオクラです。このネバネバ感が好き
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オクラです。これも人の顔に見えるかな？
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シャブリです
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丸茄子です。メイラード反応を起こした表面が抜群の美味さ
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丸茄子です。これも人の顔に見えるかな
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鱚です。デッカイ
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鱚、ドボン
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鱚の尻尾は塩でとアドヴァイスされたので
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午房です。堀川だったか大浦さったか、忘れました
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午房をつまんでいただきます
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鯵です。サバくらいの大きさの鰺でした
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この鯵は抜群にウンマカッタ
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地元の白甘鯛です。2.3kgの大物
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白甘鯛は塩でいただきました
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松笠仕上げが見えるかな
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カツオのサラダです
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カツオです
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赤イカの子供です。今朝、定置網から水揚げされました
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赤イカのお兄さん。墨入りです
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アルザスのリースリングです
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外の奥戸から釜炊きのご飯の蒸気が上がり始めました
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ノドグロです。骨付きのぶつ切りです
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ノドグロです
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ノドグロの骨付きです
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ノドグロの背骨
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玉蜀黍。トッピングは生です
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新ジャガイモです。ホクホクでこれはウンマイ
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白メバルです。白身の天ぷらはウンマイ
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ご飯が炊きあがりました
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白甘鯛の鱗なしです
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白甘鯛の脂の煌めきが見えるでしょうか？
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炊き立てのごはんです
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香の物
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最初は天丼。障泥烏賊、小海老などが入ります
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天丼です。山葵が合う
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掻き揚げの中はこんな感じ
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天バラと天茶の薬味です。本山葵と生海苔と黄柚子胡椒
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天バラです
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天バラは途中から天茶仕立てに味変
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
金曜日のお昼です。
静岡です。
もはや駄文を重ねるまでもなく、全国に名声の轟く天ぷらの名店、らしい。
だって、自分の眼と舌で確かめたこと無いんだもん。
過去に人様の口伝に裏切られた負の遺産など数知れず。
そりゃそうだ。舌の好みは千差万別。良いも悪いも有りません。
静岡駅前から小雨そぼ降る中、ノテノテノテと周辺を散策しながら、浅間神社の横手を目指します。タクシーで移動しても構わない距離ですが、参道や境内の雰囲気も味わいたい欲張りもののラッコ。
駅からニ十分くらいかな、浅間神社の奥の初代静岡県知事邸跡地の横に、瀟洒かつ精悍な佇まいの建築を発見。
後ほどOMAKASE画面で知りましたが、予約の半時間前から中待合室に入ることが出来るたよう。いつもながら下調べの不十分なラッコはそんなこと露知らず、浅間神社の境内に引き返し、雨に煙る社を眺めます。
そこにお誘いいただいた名古屋紳士からLINEが届き、社の休憩所で待ち合わせ。しばし歓談し、予約時間の十分前にお店に向かいました。
小粋なアプローチを抜け、中待合に入ると既にご夫婦が一組お待ち。ソムリエの方にお茶を入れていただき、しばし、ボオーッと微睡みます。
このプロローグは大切。
高まる期待に荒ぶる興奮。大人の嗜みで緑茶を楽しみながら、貴重な時間を過ごします。
ほどなくして地元の四人組の女子がご到着。八名が揃ったところでカウンターにご案内。
奥の暖簾から顔を出された志村氏。
想像していたより、随分とお若く颯爽とした出で立ち。凛々しい、という喩えがピッタリか。
最後のお茶室での会話で知りましたが、川崎のご出身でオーストラリアの東海岸でサーフィンを愉しみ、その地の縁で天ぷら職人の道に入られたとのこと。
『帰国して静岡で修行を始め、それから他の土地へも移動するつもりだったのですが．．．』と志村氏。
フフフッ、隙アリ！
地縁も血縁もない静岡に落ち着かれた理由、それはひとつしか無い。
『小指ですね、アハッ』と呟く品の無いラッコ。
『えっ？』と小首をかしげる志村氏。
『いやぁ、そりゃあ、オンナですよね』
四人組女子から笑いと溜息が漏れ伝わります。
『アッ、イヤッ、アハッ。素敵な土地ですよ、静岡は。この裏手なんて武田軍が陣を張ったところですから』と、動揺を隠しながら慌てて話題を変えようとする志村氏。
『歴史がお好きなんですね』
『いえっ、別にそういう訳では．．．、アハッ』
なんやねん。支離滅裂やないかい。図星やな。
すいません。志村さん。いじってしまいました。
それもカウンターの中での天種と揚げ技の会話で、距離を近づけたと勝手に解釈したラッコ。
爽やかな笑顔でお見送りいただき、その理解に間違いは無いかな。
またお伺いしますね、アハッ。
今度は頑張って自力で何とか予約を勝ち取ろ、アハッ。
さてさてそれではいただいたものは以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。
そしてご馳走様でした。
＜まとめ＞
車海老で始まり穴子で終わる、みたいな、いわゆるスタンダードな天ぷらとは一線を画します。
聞けば仕入れにより毎日異なる天種の数々。中央の市場からやみくもにお決まりものを仕入れることもなく、静岡の海と大地の宝石をその手でさらなる高みにリフトアップ。
今日のこの日は目の前の海の定置網からの魚。野菜も朝どれ。この雨の中、水揚げされた漁師さんや早朝から収穫に勤しむ農家の方々に深く感謝します。
中でも鯵。これには目から鱗でした。
関アジや真鯖くらいの大物の身を肉厚なまま薄衣に包みます。中はレアだけど皮裏の生臭みは皆無。ブラインドだと鯵とは絶対に分からない、これはもう膝が震えるくらい感動してしまいました。
2.3kgの白甘鯛も秀逸。松笠仕上げと鱗なしの二種をご提供。肉厚なのでまるで鶏肉、だけどさっくりと舌の上で踊ります。
天種では有りませんが、最初のツマミのジンドウイカ（剣先イカの子供）も爆発的にウンマイ。地酒の杉勇に漬けた切り身は、酒を呼ぶ。
鬼おろしの大根は五杯ほどおかわり、天つゆは塩味の薄い柔らか仕上げ。天種によりジャブジャブ漬けをお勧めされるので、この薄めの味わいには納得。
食後の茶室での団らんも愉しく。これは皆様が足繁く通う訳が良く分かりました。
＜コース内容＞
●冷製スープ：静岡産トウモロコシ
●クエ：低温油に潜らせ薪で炙り
●ジンドウイカ：炙りと杉錦漬け
●太刀魚：大葉
●泥障烏賊
●オクラ
●丸茄子
●鱚
●牛蒡
●鯵：焼津
●白甘鯛：松笠
●鰹：ルッコラ、ミニトマト、ナスのサラダ仕立て
●赤イカ：子供
●赤イカ：お兄さん、墨入り
●ノドグロ：ぶつ切り
●玉蜀黍：揚げと生
●新ジャガイモ
●白メバル
●白甘鯛：鱗無し
●天丼
●天バラ：半分ほど天茶
＜お酒＞
・黒ラベル：小瓶
・Chardonnay：尾ノ下エステートシャルドネ#5,
2021, 都農ワイン
・Sancerre：ASC, Vincent Gaudry, SB, 2020
・Chablis：ASC, Domaine Pattes Loup、Cha
Thomas Pico, Vent d'Ange 2018
・Alsace Grand Cru：AAGGC：Riesling, 2000
Chateau d'Orschwihr