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神楽坂の小道を抜け、階段を上がると現れるカウンター6席の舞台。そこは「初志」の名の通り、原点への祈りが漂う空間だった。愛媛・宇和島から届く鮮魚は、どれも素材の輪郭がくっきり。
火入れに宿る繊細な呼吸。派手な演出はないが、静かに記憶を更新してくる。
いつも素晴らしい〆の鯛飯。出汁の旨味が柔らかく広がり、米一粒までが語りかけてくるようだった。瀬戸内の海と風景を、そのまま抱きしめて食べているような感覚。派手さは要らない。丁寧で誠実で、美味しい。それだけでまた来たくなる。