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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
普段は馴染みの店に通う事の方が多く、余り新店の開拓は積極的ではない。新規の店は気も使うし、お店との関係も一から作るのがどうしても億劫に感じてしまうからだ。
とは言え年に１、2回、無性に新規の店に飛び込んでみたい気分の時もある。そんな時は必ず、開店からそれほど経っていない店で、今はまだ名が無いがこれからグッと伸びて行きそうな店を吟味する。
例えば2017年の開店直後に伺った「不動前すし岩澤」はミシュラン１つ星を獲得するまでになったし、2018年最も通った「きざ㐂」はあっという間に人気店へと駆け上がった。
そして2019年、また新たなる出会いがあった。白金高輪にある「鮨長島」だ。大将は新井智晴氏。あれ？新井さんなのに長島？と思い聞いてみると、出身が鹿児島の長島という島でそこからとったのだという。苗字を店名にすると…確かにちょっと紛らわしくなってしまうのもわかる。
そして大将はなんと長島で漁師をしていたのだという。その後、和食の道に入り、最後は「鮨おのでら」のハワイ店で大将を務めたという異色の経歴。楽しみだ。
まず最初は細魚と閖上の赤貝のつまみから。細魚は昆布を当てて寝かし、淡白な身にしっかりとした旨味を乗せて来ている。
その後も、柔らかく仕上げた鮑につける肝ソースはコクがあって深い味わい。舎利玉を入れてリゾット風にいただくのもまた良い。
ここで堪らず日本酒をお願いすると綺麗なグラスに入って供された。よく見るとグラスには、一つ一つ違う魚が刻まれている。聞けば特注の切子硝子だと言う。こういう拘りがまた酒を美味くする。
握りは春子鯛から始まり、二巻目が小鰭。この小鰭がまた美味い。酸味は余り立てずに、塩味で旨味を引き出すタイプの締め方だ。小鰭好きとしてはその余韻でまた酒が飲める。
あと、鮨長島の特徴は煮切りだ。1週間寝かせて完成すると言う煮切りは、他店のそれより甘みが立ってくる。この辺は好きずきが分かれるかも知れないが、やま幸から仕入れる鮪には特にビシッと狙いがあってくる。
そして焼き物は何と葱鮪だ。これは鮨屋のセオリーでは無いのかもしれないが美味いものは美味い。それで十分だ。続いて先ほどの小鰭を蕪で挟んだものが供された。初めて食べたが、とても小気味好い。和食の引き出しもある大将ならではかも知れない。
握りもつまみも一つ一つきっちりと仕事がなされていて、最大限素材の美味さを引き出している。
大将は一見のお客にも分け隔てなく接して話しかけてくれ、いつのまにか新井ワールドに染まっている。そこには堅苦しい空気はなく、鮨を心ゆくまで楽しんでほしいと言う大将の矜持が現れている。
こういう店はきっとこれから大きく羽ばたいていく。そう感じさせてくれる片鱗がここにはある。望むべくは共にありたい。
そう、羽ばたきの片鱗、そんなお店。