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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
名古屋市西区にある「天婦羅くすのき」さんに伺いました。ご存知･東京の四ツ谷にある「くすのき」の名古屋支店です。
店主は楠忠師氏。
名古屋の日本料亭で研鑽。その際に天ぷら担当になったことをきっかけに奥深さに魅了され、天ぷら専門店として2003年に独立。2018年6月に東京に移転するまで名古屋の地でくすのきを全国区の有名店に。
中目黒店の開店と共に、市原氏と橋本氏が異動したため、名古屋の「天麩羅くすのき」は休業していましたが、その生誕の地を守るべく、現在は月2回ほど不定期開催で楠大将自らが名古屋にて揚げている。
当店の提供スタイルは、素材を先ず楽しみ、次に天ぷらを提供するスタイル。
楠氏曰く天ぷらとは「油の温度帯を使って素材の旨み･甘み･香りを引き出す。衣を破った後、旨みがダイレクトに伝わるような仕事。」とのこと。
特徴は、以下の三つです。
❶一つ目の特徴は、油切れに拘っていて、衣に油を含んでいないため、大将が手で出すことができる。あくまでも粗熱を取るための天紙の役割。
❷二つ目の特徴は塩加減。旨みを引き出した揚げ師が塩の塩梅を整えて提供するスタイル。
そのため、塩の役割の重要性を説明するため、一番出汁の味見後に塩を入れて、天ぷらと塩の関係性を説明するところからスタート。
塩以外の海老味噌の海老ダレ、野菜の煮込みダレは各自で。
❸三つ目の特徴は衣が薄くて、中がかなりレア。油は太白胡麻油100%。水分量が高く、そのため食材の香りが圧倒的に良い。
大将の「油と衣を使うと魔法みたいですよね。香りをちゃんと包み込めれるのが衣の役割。衣を破った方が一番幸せになれますね。」という言葉が印象的。
▶︎この日頂いたものはこちらです。
（◾️天ぷら ◻︎その他）
◻︎菜の花の寄せ豆腐
菜の花の貝出汁の含め煮、ミル貝
完熟胡椒を添えて
◻︎お造り（金目鯛、桜鯛）
金目鯛は皮目を鉄針で火入れして
◻︎一番出汁（プレーン）
味見の後、塩を入れて
◾️車海老 塩で ♡
◾️車海老 海老タレで
◾️車海老の頭×2 海老タレで
◾️菜の花
◾️桑名･木曽三川（長良川の河口）の白魚
◾️コシアブラ ♡♡
◾️三河湾の真鯛
◾️本ミル貝 ♡
◾️本ミル貝のワタ
◾️京都･物集女の筍
◻︎氷温の大根
◾️愛媛･八幡浜の白甘鯛 野菜の煮込みタレ
◾️グリーンアスパラガス
先端は塩、残りは野菜の煮込みタレで
◻︎柚子胡椒で仕立てたホタルイカ、
鯛の内子は花山椒を添えて、筍の炙り浸し
◾️ホワイトアスパラガス ♡
ホワイトアスパラガスの軸の摺流しタレで
◾️千葉･銚子の金目鯛 野菜の煮込みタレで
◾️蕗の薹 ♡
◾️三河湾の蛤 大根の摺流し餡と絡めて
◾️秋田のさつま芋「紅はるか」
断面に塩を振って溶かして
◻︎銀次郎の青森の生白雲丹
マルクニ水産の無添加
◾️白雲丹の海苔巻き
◻︎玉葱の冷製
上は新玉葱と豆乳のシャーベット（崩し氷）
下は小玉葱
◾️自家製カラスミ（追加） ♡
くすのきの名物の一品
◻︎鯛めし
鯛のカマとアラを漬けて焼いて炊き込んで
◻︎蛤出汁の天茶漬け
◻︎漬け物（わさび菜、山牛蒡の佃煮）
◻︎桜のくずし氷
生湯葉と少量の豆乳と桜の葉のソース、フランボワーズとラズベリーと白ワインのソース、白味噌と白餡のソルベ、桜の花を添えて
◻︎黒豆茶
▶︎その他の追加ネタ
自家製の名物カラスミ、ホタルイカ、しいたけ屋 平松の原木椎茸。
▶︎オーダドリンク
・ROCOCO Tokyo WHITEビール
コース料金 69,300円（税込サ別）
合計金額 84,400円（税込）
食べ手の天ぷらへの理解を深めようとして技術的な説明をきちんとして下さるのが分かります。
例えば、白雲丹の海苔巻きについて。
「白雲丹の海苔巻きは、中心温度は45度くらい。雲丹の周り1mmはしっかりと火を入れてあげないと水が出ない、香りが出ない、コクが出てこない。海苔に雲丹の余分な水を吸わせて、海苔も水を充てれば香りが出る、その香りを衣で閉じ込める仕事。」
天ぷら業界を背負ってきた楠大将だから食べ手の進化も期待しているのではないでしょうか。
ご馳走さまでした。四ツ谷にもまた伺います。