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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鮨棗 本店
前半｜冬の札幌、序盤から引き込まれる構成
雪深い札幌で年明け最初に選んだのは「鮨棗 本店」。序盤から一切の妥協を感じさせない構成に、自然と期待が高まる。
毛蟹の味噌和えは濃厚ながら後味が驚くほど軽く、縞鯵の刺身は身の張りと脂の乗りが絶妙。
襟裳産ツブ貝は力強い歯応えで存在感を示し、大間の鮪赤身は香りと旨味の純度が高い。
鯖にガリを挟んだ一品は発想と完成度の高さに唸らされ、ツブ貝のヒモ串焼きで香ばしさを重ねる。
舞茸と鱧、スッポン出汁の土瓶蒸しは滋味深く、指宿のそら豆と沖縄のヤングコーン炙りで季節感を添える。序盤から店の実力を存分に感じさせる内容だった。
中盤｜酒と素材が深まり、北海道が表情を変える
中盤の白眉は白子の炙り。表面の香ばしさと中のとろける食感が際立ち、日本酒との相性は言うまでもない。続くキンキの煮付けは、脂の甘みと煮汁のバランスが秀逸で、素材の格を感じさせる一皿。
野付のホタテは岩塩と酢橘で輪郭を際立たせ、トキシラズは桜チップの燻製で奥行きを加える。
燻香が主張しすぎず、魚の旨味を引き立てる点が印象的だった。
ニシンはコクと余韻が心地よく、中トロで一気にボルテージが上がる。いくらの張りと塩味、そして雲丹の甘みとキレ。中盤にして北海道の海が最高潮を迎える構成で、緩急の付け方も見事だ。
後半｜余韻を大切にする、完成度の高い着地
後半はトロタクと干瓢巻きでリズムを変え、食事の流れを心地よく締めに向かわせる。玉子は甘さを抑え、仕事の丁寧さが伝わる仕上がり。
シジミの味噌汁は滋味深く、身体に静かに染み渡る一杯。
最後はりんご、いちご、みかんでさっぱりと口内を整え、余韻を残して幕を閉じる。
最初から最後まで構成に一貫性があり、素材・仕事・流れの完成度が非常に高いコース。美味しい鮨とともに、良い一年の始まりを実感できる一席だった。