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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
天川村で100年続く旅館の大広間を改装。
平地の少ない土地で、谷を背に斜面に建てる吉野造。建築上、目の前が谷となり、谷間で雄々しく生きる木々や竹の生命力のダイナミズムが窓で縁取られる。更に雪化粧までしている。自然の美しさ。
コースの初めはその景色の前で吉野の桜入りの黒文字茶。粋を感じて、心をグッと掴まれる。
源流地であるこの場所で、水脈で繋がった海までを想い料理し、持続的な自然環境と食文化を守る地産地消の在り方を流域料理と名付けたそうです。
シンプルな構成、盛り付けの皿の上に山や川、森など生き生きとして自然の味が息づくコンセプト通りの料理の数々でした。特に銀杏のニョッキは川のモクズガニ、森の銀杏と自然の一体感を感じて、コンセプトを頭ではなく、味で理解させられました。
また、シェフはジェラートも営んでおり、これが大人気。雪の中でもわざわざ訪れる人も多数だとか。コースのデザートはそこの一番人気メニューの薪ミルクで燻製の味がなかなか強烈で美味しかった。
【印象的だったメニュー】
●銀杏のニョッキ
銀杏は天河大辨財天社の大銀杏。ソースはモクズガニのビスク。スギやヒノキの香りを纏わせた山の蒸しパンが驚く美味しさ。森や川の一体感を感じる味、お店のコンセプトを体現。ちなみに天河大辨財天社は音楽や芸能の神様が祀られており、仕事柄参拝しておきました。
●岩魚
キハダの実、黒大蒜で味付けした岩魚を黒文字の枝に再構築。見た目も生命の瑞々しさを感じ、味は野生味があり、お店のシグネチャーの１つ。
●猪
猟師曰く、脂はソース。猪の脂は濃厚。付け合わせの刻まれた原木椎茸の香ばしさが脂の風味を引き立てていた。