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いわゆる江戸前寿司とは異なり、ここでは「九州前」という独自のアプローチが確立されている。ひとつの寿司に、異なる素材を巧みに重ねることで生まれる味の立体感。それぞれのネタが競い合うのではなく、響き合い、まるで一皿の完成された料理のような印象を受けた。
シャリはやや柔らかめ。一般的な寿司店ではあまり見かけないが、この店のネタとのバランスを考えると納得のいく設計。まさに「個性」であり、「計算された異端」とも言える。
中でも印象深かったのが、イカ。見た目の美しさにまず心を奪われ、口に含めば、なめらかさ、粘り、そして包み込むような旨味の層が次々に現れる。これはもう“食べる芸術”と言っていい。
寿司の進化系、あるいは寿司という枠の再構築とも言えるこの体験。九州の地に根ざした新しい寿司のあり方に、深く感動した。