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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鯛の極致なる表現——壮士寿司で味わう驚きの夜
もし壮士寿司に来なければ、鯛がここまで弾力に富み、美味しくなるとは想像もしなかっただろう。一般的なマグロとは異なり、ここで提供される鯛は繊細でありながら、圧倒的な存在感を放つ。例えば炙り鯛（P2）、皮の艶やかな焼き色を見ただけで、その美味しさが伝わってくる。口に入れると、薄くパリッとした食感とゼリーのような柔らかさが共存し、鮮やかな甘みが一気に広がる。この味わいは、東京ではなかなか出会えない逸品だ。そして、この驚きを生み出したのは、屈強な体格を持つ店主。その見た目からは想像できないほど繊細な技術と洗練された手さばきで、まるで張飛が針の穴を通すかのような職人技を披露してくれる。
瀬戸内の恵み、鯛が主役の夜
ここで使われる食材の多くは、広島・瀬戸内海産。素材の魅力を最大限に引き出した寿司は、どれも唯一無二の存在だ。今回のテーマは、まさに鯛。コースの最初から最後まで、鯛が主人公として物語を紡いでいく。
まず、シャリは先に酸味が感じられ、口の中でふわりと消えた後、ほんのりとした甘さが余韻を残す。このシャリが、最初に登場した塩〆の白甘鯛の温かく弾力のある身をしっかりと支える。烏賊は細やかに包丁目が入れられ、繊維がほどけるような滑らかな口当たり。塩の旨みと烏賊本来の甘みが、一瞬にして口の中に広がる。車海老はサイズこそ控えめながら、自家製の海老味噌ソースが添えられ、一口食べると濃厚な旨味がダイレクトに押し寄せる。
暴力的なまでの脂の旨さ
後半戦は、大竹産の鯵から始まり、一気に脂の旨味を堪能する流れに突入。鰤にはほんのりとした青菜の香りが加わり、脂の甘みを程よく中和。皮剥（カワハギ）は口に入れた瞬間、じゅわっと溢れる旨味がたまらない。この緩急ある流れの中で、ついに登場したのが白子の握り。とろとろで形を保つのが難しいほどの柔らかさだが、当然ながら絶品。「神秘的」と表現しても過言ではないほどの美味しさだった。
締めくくりには、特に気に入った二貫をおかわりでプレゼントしてくれるという、店主の豪快な心遣い。まさに”猛男の熱情”を感じるひとときだった。
ビストロのような寿司屋——温かい空間と職人技
最後に登場したのは厚焼き玉子。店の奥でずっと火にかけられていた小さな鍋が、ようやくその姿を見せる。「目の前で焼きたての玉子焼きを作る寿司職人」を、どれほど久しぶりに見ただろうか。
貫数は多めだが、店の雰囲気があまりにも良く、時間の流れがゆったりと感じられる。店主は驚くほどの速さで握りながらも、気さくに話しかけてくれ、まるでビストロのような和やかな空間が広がる。寿司屋とは思えないほどリラックスした雰囲気の中、左隣の老紳士は孫とともに楽しく話しかけてくれ、右隣の寡黙な男性も時折会話に加わる。伝統的な格式ばった寿司屋ではなく、それでいてハイクオリティな寿司を提供するこの店——たまらなく好きになった。