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東京で最も予約困難なフレンチの一つ。
和洋介シェフの華やかな経歴と、紹介制という特別なシステムが、この店を東京美食界の殿堂に押し上げている。今年のTabelogで金賞評価を逃したとはいえ、その繊細さ、豪快さ、火入れの正確さ(特に魚料理)や味付けは、むしろ金賞を獲得した一部の店よりも優れていると感じるほどだ。
シェフは一見厳格な表情だが、実はとても温かい人。食材もボリュームも惜しみなく提供し、気に入ったものがあれば「もっと食べる?」と追加してくれる。黒鮑、Sugalabo特製の米、真鯛、松茸、和牛のフライは、繊細さと豪快さが共存する旨みの塊。そして、定番の生ハムと、驚くほどふわふわのポテトブレッドは、いつ食べても心を掴まれる。ワインを少し合わせると、最後まで重さを感じずに楽しめるのも魅力。
さらに、久々に登場した濃厚なプリンも嬉しい驚き。去年は提供タイミングや構成に少しばらつきがあったが、今年はその心配もなく、完璧な流れで楽しめた。
今回は、カウンターでのダイナミックな肉・魚尽くしの食体験について書いたが、料理のボリューム感やテンポ感も心地よく、ここまで満足度の高いフレンチは東京でもそう多くない。間違いなく、わざわざ訪れる価値のある一軒。
次回は、テーブル席での体験についても振り返ってみたい。