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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
九月初旬にすし宮川を訪問。凛とした空間の中、誠実なおもてなしと共にいただくお任せは、一貫ごとに親方の心意気が伝わってくる。
まず印象的だったのは赤酢のシャリ。酸味と温度のバランスが絶妙で、ネタの持ち味を自然に引き立てる。その真価を最も感じさせてくれたのが小肌で、締め加減が見事。香りと旨味が幾重にも重なり、江戸前の粋を体現する一貫だった。
名物の雲丹は、この日はむらさきとバフンの二種類。むらさきはよりクリーミーで濃厚な口当たり、バフンは冷水産らしく粒が大きく、甘みが際立つ。赤酢のシャリと調和した瞬間、それぞれの個性が鮮やかに浮かび上がり、食べ比べの楽しさを存分に味わえた。
さらに全国各地から蒐集した酒器も魅力の一つ。この日は「黒龍」を、親方自ら制作した猪口でいただいた。土の温もりが酒の柔らかな旨味を引き立て、特別なひとときを演出してくれる。また、店名の「宮」をあしらった漆器の猪口は、すし宮川のために特注されたもの。酒・器・鮨が響き合う世界観こそ、この店の真骨頂だろう。
穴子のふんわりとした口溶け、車海老の鮮烈な甘み、大トロの脂のキレなど、全体を通して緩急があり、最後の玉子まで一切の隙がない構成。
素材の確かさと職人技、そして器や酒の調和。すし宮川は、まさに一期一会の物語を紡いでくれる銀座の佳店だと改めて実感した。