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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
SUGALABO｜東京フレンチの安定した天井感
今回のSUGALABOは、季節の流れをきれいにまとめたコース構成。量はしっかりあるのに重さを感じず、後半までテンポよく進む“食べ応えのある”タイプ。ただ無駄に派手な演出はなく、終始落ち着いた精度で積み上げていく、まさにこの店らしいフレンチ。
須賀洋介シェフがロブション時代から培ってきた「正確さ・清潔さ・処理の端正さ」が、今回のメニューでもはっきり出ている。季節感の拾い方が過不足なく、火入れの圧も強すぎない。各地の素材を無理なく繋げ、今季の流れとして自然にまとまっている。
■ 冒頭のスープ
最初の一皿は、非常に澄んだ上湯。味わいは静かだが厚みが自然で、真鯛の外腹の柔らかさとタプナードが馴染む。指橙を少量加えると酸味が輪郭を整え、皿全体が明るくなる。
続く火腿飯は、現在日本で食べられるものの中でもトップクラス。極薄の火腿の下に温かな米飯を忍ばせる構成で、一口目から旨味と米の甘さの調和が際立つ。塩味のキレ、香りのドライ感、どれも冗長さがなく、コースの中でも存在感が強い一段。
■ 仙鳳趾
状態が非常に良く、甘みが凝縮。海胆が薄いジュレ状にまとい、舌に乗せた瞬間の軽さが心地よい。
■ 松葉蟹の椀物
懐石のロジックを丁寧に踏んだ一皿。澄んだスープに層があり、三関芹を天ぷらに仕立てることで香りがさらに明確に出る。今回のコースで最も光った場面の一つ。
その後の魚料理は温度が柔らかく、スープの底が静かに清い。白松露は爽やかさを過剰にせず、貝類とのバランスが整っている。
■ 主菜：長洲和牛
火入れは直球で、素材の質の良さがそのまま伝わる。百合根の清潔な甘さが主菜の輪郭を締め、季節感の輪がきれいに収束。長洲牛の香りは素直、噛むほど味が深まる。
招牌の咖哩は相変わらず可愛い存在。デザートの柑橘はLa Franceの香りをきれいに繋ぎ、締めとして過不足ない構成。
■ 総評
非常に“典型的なSUGALABO”。劇場性は追わず、装飾で押す店でもない。
各パートの密度と火入れの安定感、素材の温度感をすべて一定の基準で保ち、最後まで静かに高い位置を維持する。
量はあるのに沈まず、“ちゃんと食べた”と“きれいに終わる”が両立したコース。まさに今季の天井板のような安定感。