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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
今回のコースは、軽やかな冬の構成に、わずかに中式のニュアンスを織り交ぜた内容。香り・温度・酸味の線が非常に整っており、過度に印象を作らず、全体の完成度で魅せるタイプ。
序盤の熟成芝士戈吉尔は安定した軽さ。胡萝卜汤は素材の甘味を素直に引き出し、小龙虾の旨味も控えめに補強。沙丁鱼分层は酸味・塩味・香草のバランスが良く、冬のコースの中でも特に完成度が高い一皿。
白身魚の薄切りは透明感のある仕上げで、酸味の角の取り方が上手い。金目鲷は火入れが非常に正確で、脂の旨味を残しながらも全体の印象は軽い。
白子に黒松露を合わせた皿は、冬らしい質感のまとめ方。白子の甘味を壊さず、ソースの厚みも控えめ。静かだが、確実にレベルの高さを感じる一段。
芝士×魚卵の皿は、主菜前の橋渡しとして優秀。味の密度を調整し、コースに緩急を付けている。
今回特徴的だったのは、主菜の家禽を二段で構成していた点。
鶏翅は中式の清らかな旨味を思わせる仕上げで、香りの方向性がわずかに広がっている。ソースの使い方も控えめで、構造で魅せるタイプ。
続く鶏胸は皮目の火入れ・焦香の作り方が正確で、根菜との味の重ね方も自然。二段構成でありながら冗長さがなく、むしろ構成の整理が良い。
パンと発酵バターは相変わらずレベルが高く、酸味・香りともにコースの中で重要な役割を果たしていた。
デザートは柑橘の軽さから栗の柔らかな甘味へ。最後まで過剰な演出がなく、静かにまとまる終わり方。
総じて、冬らしい密度と軽さの両立が印象的。明確なピークを作らず、全皿を均質に整える設計。わずかに混ぜ込まれた中式ニュアンスも自然で、方向性に無理がない。安定度が非常に高いコース。