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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
カウンターで食べる天ぷらは、味よりもまずリズムが印象に残った。
油の音が静かに立ち上がるところから始まり、揚げは終始軽い。
衣は薄く、油は外側にだけ留まっていて、素材の輪郭を邪魔しない。
重さを感じさせないまま、コースがきれいに進んでいく。
最初のハトシは、外側が軽く、中の海老の甘みが後から出てくる。
続く海老は二尾。塩で食べたときの輪郭のはっきりした甘さと、天つゆに替えたときの収まり方、その違いが分かりやすい。
野菜と白身魚の流れも静か。
茄子は水分がきちんと残り、キスは軽くほどける。
椎茸は中から香りが出てくるタイプで、強調しすぎない仕上がり。
蛤は清い旨味、しらうおはほとんど重さを感じない。
その後にブロッコリー、山菜が入り、味の方向が一度植物側に戻されるのも心地いい。
帆立は火入れが軽く、甘みは後半に。
牡丹海老は一尾はそのまま、一尾は醤油でどちらも無理に主張せず、自然に終わる。
百合根で一息入り、穴子は崩し揚げで締まる。外は散っていて、中に密度がある。
食事は明太子、白子天丼、天丼、天茶の順。
前半が抑えられている分、明太子の塩味だけがはっきりと印象に残り、最後は天茶で静かに収束する。
全体として、油は使われているが重さは残らない。
派手さよりも、揚げの薄さと温度管理で最後まで気持ちよく食べ切れる一軒。