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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
越後湯沢駅から車で30分程度、雪に覆われた山間の宿に到着。雑誌「自遊人」がプロデュースする宿として知られるが、食事が素晴らしいとの評判を聞き付け、初めての訪問。
今回滞在した2Fのメゾネットの部屋は、合計80平米強と広々。テラスには露天風呂があり、辺り一面を覆う雪景色を楽しむことができる。
部屋を含め、全館にミッドセンチュリー家具が散りばめられている。ミッドセンチュリー好きとしては、思わずテンションが上がって館内を駆けずり回り、写真を撮りまくってしまった。木の温かみを基調とした空間にも馴染んでいて、いくら眺めていても飽きない。
宿泊すると、夕食と朝食で野菜を中心とした地元の食材を生かした料理が供される。
冬場はフレッシュな野菜が採れないため、雪室で寝かせた野菜を使うなど、徹底している。新北欧料理でも、地元にない野菜をわざわざ遠方から取り寄せるのではなく、野菜がある時期に収穫したものを発酵させるなどして保存し、季節を問わず利用するので、底辺に流れる思想は共通点しているように思う。雪室野菜は自然な甘みが強く、フレッシュなものとは異なる良さが感じられた。
また、郷土料理であるのっぺを再構築した皿は、私が考える今後の日本の食の方向性に合致するところがあり、大変興味深かった。地方で活躍する料理人さんと話すとよく出る話だが、今でも日本各地に存在する郷土料理は、流通や調理技術など様々な制約があった時代のもので、現代人の舌には正直美味しいと思えないものもある。それを地元の食材だけを使い、レシピのエッセンスは残しつつも、今食べても美味しい料理に再構築できないかと常々思う。日本各地にまだまだ活かせる伝統レシピはあるだろうし、そういう店が増えたらわざわざ旅をする理由が増える。
個人的には、メインで牛肉ではなく地元で捕れたジビエ（新潟なら鴨だろうか）か、もしくは肉が手に入らないなら肉なしでもいいと思ったが、宿の食事としては流石にそれは難しいかもしれない。
いずれにしても、美味しいだけでなく、色々と考えるきっかけとなった素晴らしい食事だった。
人気でなかなか予約が取れないのが難だが、無理やりタイミングを合わせてでも訪れる価値のある、素晴らしい宿。
＜2017年1月の訪問＞
ーーー夕食ーーー
〜早苗饗 大寒の頃〜
＜水沢腹堅（みずさわこおりつめる）＞
「冬の野菜クリアスープ」
冬の野菜をゆっくり煮出したスープ：野菜の皮や根っこ、切れ端を使ったスープ。
「のっぺ2016」
里芋、蓮根などの根菜を別に炊いて、テリーヌ仕立てに：郷土料理、のっぺの再構築。醤油ベースの出汁を掛けたもの。伝統的なのっぺと違って全て塩辛くなく、素材本来の風味を楽しめるのが嬉しい。
「冬野菜の五味」
紫芋 大崎菜 雪室人参 柔肌ねぎ かぐら南蛮：雪室で寝かせて甘みが増した根菜を使った、前菜盛り合わせ。
こーんブレッド、人参のピュレ
菜花のサパイス炒め
肴豆の酢和え
紫さつまいも、かぐら南蛮（旧山古志村で栽培されてきた固定種長岡の郷土野菜）、柔肌ネギ、赤レタスと雪下人参の生春巻き
「鰤すし 今昔」
佐渡ぶり握り かぶら寿司：今昔、つまり現代の鰤の握りと古のかぶら寿司（蕪の間に鰤を挟んで麹につけたもの）を対置させた一品。寿司の進化を一皿で体感できるプレゼンテーションが白眉。
鱈と鮟鱇：佐渡産鱈の昆布締めと鮟肝。
「鴨とこそば」
在来種手打ち蕎麦パスタと真鴨：蕎麦の在来種、「こそば」を使った手打ち蕎麦。通常の蕎麦の実の1/3くらいの大きさしかない粒を精製したもの。真鴨の肉のそぼろと三年熟成のみりんを使ったつゆで頂く。そぼろは砕いた骨入り。
「保存の知恵」
雪室野菜のサラダ：ジャガイモとヤーコン、切り干し大根のソース。
「雪下焼き白菜」
グリルした鰆柚庵漬とともに：雪下白菜の素焼き。あくまで、鰤を覆った白菜が主役の一品。
「蓮餠」
大口蓮根のすりおろしでつくった蓮餠の沢煮あんかけ
「大根 新潟和牛雪室熟成肉」
和牛煮込み 大根 あられ柚子：長岡産和牛脛肉の煮込み。
「ごちそう<御>飯（はん）」
香の物 味噌汁：「かまどさん」で炊いたご飯。京料理の割烹で食べるご飯に比べると、水分を飛ばして硬めに仕上げてられている。
赤紫蘇のシャーベット
「季節の甘味と薬草茶」
チョコレートケーキ、手芋のきんとん、自家製ハーブティー
ーーー朝食ーーー
「無添加すりおろし にんじんジュース」
「郷土料理 切り菜」
「いろいろ野菜たっぷり 野菜鍋」
「南魚沼産コシヒカリ 今井聡さんのお米」
「日本海の幸 いわしの生姜煮」
「手づくりのお惣菜 盛り合わせ」
金平牛蒡、おから、炊き合わせ、卵焼き、豆腐