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乃木坂の緩やかな坂を降りた途中に,ふと時代の継ぎ目に踏み込んだような空気をまとう「赤坂珉珉」がある.
外観は飾らず,ただ静かに店を開け続けている——それだけで都市の時間が少しだけ緩む.
この日は『もやしそば』を注文しました.
丼を覆う蒸気が異様に厚い.
もやしの白い線,木耳の黒い凹凸,きぬさやの緑……いずれも独立したまま,スープの上で浮遊していた.
スープは塩味に逃げず,旨味に寄りかかりもしない.
鶏ガラと野菜の水分が重なり,味の勾配が濁らないまま伸びていく.
薄味なのに輪郭が途切れない——静かで確かな透明感があった.
麺は細くてしなやか.
スープをまとった瞬間の麺の伸びが美しい.
雑味がゼロの世界で,ただ淡々と自身を主張してくる.
そして特筆すべきは木耳の存在.
プリッとした質感に加え,スープの熱でわずかに膨張し,食感が変わる.
もやしそばの単調さを破り,赤坂珉珉らしい奥行きを生んでいました.
さすが老舗中華の名店の一杯.
丁寧な手仕事の陰影がしっかりと光る,そんなもやしそばでした.
ごちそうさまでした.