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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
麻布十番に店を構える焼き魚の名店「たき下」．
この店の前に座ると，火と脂の関係性が単なる“調理”ではなく，料理人が手間暇をかけて丹念に計算した“熱の構築物”として立ち上がる．
焼き魚の店は数あれど，ここまで火入れが階調を持つ場所はそう多くない．
この日は『黒むつ柚香焼き』を注文した．
皿に置かれた瞬間，まず皮目の“黒の深さ”に目が奪われる．
焦げの層が幾何学的に沈み，その下で黄金色の脂がゆらぎ，表面張力が光を弾く．
たき下の焼き色は，単なる色味ではなく，脂の構造を彫り出すために必要な“作用点”として存在しているように思える．
箸を入れると，内部の白い身はしっとりと熱を抱き，皮目の香ばしさと柚子の香りがふっと立ち上がる．
黒むつ特有の甘い脂が，舌の上でわずかに遅れて波のように押し寄せてくる．
その“遅れ”こそ技術だ．
火入れが浅ければ生臭さが前に出て，深ければ脂が破断する．
その中間点，限界線上の一点にきちんと着地している．
柚香焼きは決して強く主張しない．
むしろ黒むつの脂相をひらくための小さな外力として静かに機能している．
レモンをひと絞りすれば，カマまわりに集まる濃密な脂が重力を持ち，豊潤さに立体感が生まれる．
派手な仕掛けがあるわけではないのに，最後に“特別な余韻”だけが残る．
職人の意図を言葉で説明するより，焼かれた黒むつそのものが雄弁に語り出す．
麻布十番「たき下」の『黒むつ柚香焼き』は，その静かな説得力を持った一皿だった．
ごちそうさまでした．