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梅田のど真ん中.
阪神梅田本店B2のグルメゾーン(阪神バル横丁)に入る「なにわ麺次郎 然」.
難波発の「なにわ麺次郎」系譜として,各店舗でオリジナリティがあるタイプのお店.
いただいたのは『黄金貝ラーメン』.
まず,スープの透明度が目を支配する.
黄金色で,油膜は薄く,輪郭は澄んでいるのに,口に入ると“しじみの濃度”が遅れて増幅してくる.
この一杯は,見た目の軽さで油断させて,旨味で回収する.
「黄金色なのに濃厚」という矛盾を,しじみで成立させている.
丼の上は,ほぼチャーシューで覆い尽くす構図.
薄切りの豚が何枚も折り重なって,噛むというより“温度でほどける”方向に寄る.
炙り豚バラと低温調理ロースの2種とされていて,この二層が食感のグラデーションを作る.
中央に味玉.海苔が影を落とし,三つ葉が香りの座標を一点で定める.
メンマは脇役に徹して,歯触りだけを残す.
チャーシューの上の香味(焦がし系の刻み)は,スープを濁らせずに“香りだけ”を上書きしてくるのが上手い.
麺は細ストレートで,持ち上げたときに束が素直に落ちる.
スープを過剰に持ち上げないから,貝の旨味が「粘度」ではなく「余韻」として残る.この店の勝ち筋は,旨味を脂で固定しないことだと思いました.
ごちそうさまでした.