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一言で言えば、福岡で飛び抜ける可能性を最大限持った鮨屋です。
金沢の片折6年、福岡の菊鮨7年、福岡市の枯淡の手伝い数ヶ月で独立した32才の若者。因みに、枯淡と近松二代目と同学年。
まず、香り高きほうじ茶から始まります。
最初の汁物がこの店の矜持。さすが、片折の弟子。福岡には無かった出汁の旨さ。今日は長崎の鰤の大吟醸粕汁ですが、酒粕は控えめで、あくまで出汁を前面に押し出します。
続いて、今朝どれの博多湾ほうぼう刺身。ほうぼうはベストシーズンは短いですが、鮮烈にねっとり甘い身です。
続いて、壱岐のよこわまぐろを即席漬けにした物。よこわの若々しさが爽やか。
志賀島の太刀魚の焼き物は、焼きネギと合わせて。ここら辺が、枯淡の大将曰く、羨ましいなあっていう片折仕込み。
志賀島の蛸の酢の物と紅白なますは酢の塩梅がさすが片折仕込み。
あん肝、、あ、1年前に枯淡で食べた味、、、あなたが作ったでしょうというと笑ってた。
フグ白子の餡掛け。もはや金沢です。
ここから、鮨に。鮨屋の勝負は一貫目という人がいるが、船越は博多湾のヒラメから控えめに始まる。さすが。対馬べにひとみノドグロでいきなり味蕾を全て活性化して、天草コハダへ。
第三楽章からはティンバニーがガーン。1週間寝かせた大間160kgマグロ赤身と大トロが。てめえ、ワーグナーの刺客だな。美味い。
おいおい、一旦落ち着こう。
対馬の巨大なかんぬきサヨリからの伊万里煮蛤
。ちょっと小ぶりか。対馬の締め鯖は軽やかに珍しい大島の紫ウニ。私は好きだが、渋みが評価の分かれるところ。対馬の煮穴子はこれより大きくても小さくてもダメという、ベストサイズ。これで一通りでした。
追加で、鐘崎アオリイカ5日寝かせたものは、甘いのなんの。続いて、我が好物のトロたく。まかない初めてのフォルム。いいねえ。
シャリは、赤酢で誤魔化さないし、味付けは酢も塩も立たない西日本系なれど甘さはあまり無し。
弟子の方のサービスの所作が素晴らしいのは、インターコンチネンタル東京で鉄板焼のシェフだったから。若々しい店だが、良い意味でサービスが若々しくないのは素晴らしい。
何れにしても、取れなくなる前にどうぞ。ただし、平和な住宅地なので、節度ない人は行かないように。タクシーではなく、バスで行く見識のある客が相応しいかな。