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ご主人の大山さんとは、かれこれ20年の付き合い。東京圏に生まれ育ち、そこでしっかりとしたお江戸の日本料理の基礎を学ばれました。その後、博多に来て、天芍という鮨屋で鮨を学ばれ、博多に開業したのが稜庵。
ですから、彼の料理は、決して鮨に在らず。料理の中に鮨がある。例えば、何かの出汁をいただくと、日本料理独特の濃厚な旨みが舌を刺激する。化学調味料には一切頼らない。数多の鮨屋が、鮨を邪魔しない鮨前のつまみをだすが、彼の料理は、料理の後の鮨がその前の料理を邪魔しないようになっている。
なので、シャリは当世流行りの赤酢ではなく主張の控えめな白酢だし、鮨も7貫程度。
あ、そうだ。おまかせにはないが、是非是非、自家製の辛子明太子の軍艦を所望して欲しい。これ、鮨にあらず、もう料理だよ。化学調味料のない日本一の辛子明太子のせご飯だ。
これでいて、酒無しのお任せだけなら、¥15000いかない。あ〜あ、隠し球だしてもうた