raccostarさんが投稿したすが弥（東京/赤羽橋）の口コミ詳細 [食べログ]

この口コミは、raccostarさんが訪問した当時の主観的なご意見・ご感想です。

最新の情報とは異なる可能性がありますので、お店の方にご確認ください。詳しくはこちら

利用規約に違反している口コミは、右のリンクから報告することができます。問題のある口コミを報告する

すが弥赤羽橋、麻布十番、芝公園/寿司

36回

夜の点数：4.9
- ￥80,000～￥99,999 / 1人
- 料理・味 5.0
  
  |サービス 5.0
  
  |雰囲気 5.0
  
  |CP 5.0
  
  |酒・ドリンク 4.5

36回目

2025/12 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP5.0
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥80,000～￥99,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏のキレッキレの変化球

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

季節ごとにお伺いしている【すが弥】さん。
秋はラッコの実家の事情でキャンセルしてしまったので、五月以来の七ヶ月ぶり。

いつものように菅谷氏の正面に席を引かれ、お約束の恵比寿の小瓶をいただきます。

すると、アイヤァ、なんとラッキーエビス（恵比寿さまの右脇の魚籠に鯛がもう一匹、入っているんです）をご用意いただいておりました。

嬉しい！
なんか良いことありそな感じ、グフッ（＾◇＾）

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいたコース内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
ラッコは、菅谷氏のケレン味溢れるツマミの数々と正統派の王道を歩む握りのギャップが好き。
この夜も、勝手にラッコが名付けた豚ロースの生姜焼き（謎解きは写真で）にマグロクリームシチューまで登場。
それだけ聞くと、謎のお鮨屋さんと誤解されそうですが、その謎解きは写真欄で・・・

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎蛤スープ：シャリ入り
⚫︎五種盛り：
　・甘海老
　・数の子：新物
　・小柱
　・赤身
　・九絵：江戸前、3kg
⚫︎真鱈白子：
　・ブルーチーズ
　・バターソテー
　・オリーブオイル
⚫︎氷見寒鰤ソテー：
　・搾菜
　・大和芋
　・麻辣ソース
⚫︎マグロクリームシチュー：
　・ジロール茸
　・黒トリュフ
　・箱庭たまご：卵黄
⚫︎鮟肝：
　・本山葵
　・カマンベール
　・マスカルポーネ
　・ビスケット
⚫︎唐墨

＜握り＞
鮪はやま幸のピンピンのピン。大間と下田の二種類です。

大間蛇腹、背トロ別れみ、下田
⚫︎墨烏賊
⚫︎別れ身：下田
⚫︎赤貝：大連
⚫︎漬け：大間
⚫︎鰯
⚫︎中トロ
⚫︎煮蛤：鹿島
⚫︎大トロ：砂ずり、大間
⚫︎ウニタワー：
　・赤ウニ：サンタバーバラ
　・バフンウニ
⚫︎太巻き：
　・マグロ全部
　・とびっこ
　・沢庵
⚫︎玉子：箱庭たまご
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒類＞
一回、穴を開けたせいで、今夜はお酒が進む進む。とうとう栄一八人を超えてしまいましたが、九月にご迷惑をお掛けしていたので、これで良し、アハッ\(//∇//)\

・恵比寿：小瓶（ラッキーエビス）
・龍勢：ゆらぎの凪、八反、広島
・義侠：純米、東条特A山田錦、特別栽培米、愛知
・富久錦：純青、特別純米、山田錦、兵庫
・十四代：中取り大吟醸、東条特A山田錦、山形
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、東条産特別栽培山田錦
　　　　撥ね搾り、岐阜
日本酒は四合程度

4.10

外観

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七周年記念の胡蝶蘭

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$すが弥 - 壁には胡蝶蘭。パンジーに似ているけれど、Googleさんがよう言うので胡蝶蘭にしておきます\(//∇//)\$

壁には胡蝶蘭。パンジーに似ているけれど、Googleさんがよう言うので胡蝶蘭にしておきます\(//∇//)\

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ラッキーエビス

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蛤の一番出し。底には風味出し用のシャリが数粒、潜みます

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ツマミの五点盛り

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江戸前の3kgの九絵です

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ラッコの大好物の小柱

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甘味の強い小粒の甘海老

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新物の数の子

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広島の銘酒

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軽く湯煎して漬けた真鱈の白子。バターソテーしてからブルーチーズをスリスリスリ。イタリア産のオリーブオイルを垂らします

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豚ロースの生姜焼きみたいな氷見の寒鰤焼き。下敷きは大和芋の摺り下ろしです。刻んだ搾菜がアクセント

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この麻辣ソースが寒鰤の脂を中和してウンマイ

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ヤバいヤツが出てきました

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愛知の銘酒

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黒トリュフを削ります

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マグロのブツが入ったクリームシチューに黒トリュフをスリスリスリ

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塊がマグロ。黄色味がかった色合いは箱庭たまごの卵黄です

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鮟肝と唐墨とビスケット

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鮟肝とカマンベールチーズ、マスカルポーネ、本山葵をぬりぬりしていただきます

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すが弥さんの鮟肝はラッコの大好物

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こんな感じでいただきます。これが抜群に合う！

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今夜の踊り子さん達。大間と下田からお越しですヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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手前が砂づり。奥の左手が背トロの別れ身です

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墨烏賊です。厚めの個体を選び抜き、シャクシャク食感を際立たせます

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山形の銘酒です

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背トロの別れ身。ひときわ旨味の強い部位です

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大連の赤貝。半端な国産より遥かにウンマイ。中には紐を挟みました

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赤身の漬けです。確かこれが下田の娘さんの筈

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酢の酸で小骨まで溶けた鰯。大好きっすヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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岐阜の銘酒。酒蔵とのコラボです

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中トロです。脂もきつすぎず、赤身とちょうど良いバランスです

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鹿島の煮蛤。でっかいヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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大間の大トロ。蛇腹部位です

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サンタバーバラ産のムラサキウニ

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でっかいっす

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バフンウニにマウンティングするサンタバーバラのムラサキウニ

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加州のサンタバーバラからいらしたムラサキウニ嬢

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お味噌汁

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マグロ全部入りの太巻き。沢庵ととびっこの粒々触感がアクセントです

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箱庭たまごの玉子焼き。色が濃ゆいヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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今年一年、有難うございました。来年もよろしくお願いいたします。

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2025/12/17 更新

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35回目

2025/05 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP5.0
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の確信

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜はおよそ三か月ぶりのこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

六時ちょうどに若い衆が出ていらしてご案内がスタート。ラッコはカウンターの右から二席目に着席。ということは、右端はおなじくおひとり様かな？

女子が良いな！
でも、この価格帯のお店におひとりでいらっしゃる女子は少ないはず。それに女子というより女史かもしれない。でもそれはそれでオッケー、グフッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

すると、可愛らし過ぎる女子が着席。
すかさず右目で盗み見ると、オオッ、なんだか素敵な指輪が中指と薬指に煌めきます。

アレッ、なんだかデジャブ・・・、かも？

すかさず菅谷氏が『xxxさんと同様、開店したてのころからご夫婦で通っていただいております・・・』

『あっ、そうだ、もしかして数年前にお隣に座っていらしたような気が・・・』

『そうなんですぅ。覚えていらして嬉しいです。私もそのように感じておりました』とその女子、というか若奥様。

えっ、旦那さんはどないしたんやろ？

察したらしき女子が『実は子供が産まれまして、主人が子守しております、エヘッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ』

ええやん。
なんて懐の深い旦那さんや、アハッ。

それはともかく本題です。
いただいたコース内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
いつもの【リストランテすが弥】や【中華すが弥】に加えて、今夜はお鮨屋さんでのクリーム煮が登場。ラッコも初体験！
旬の白アスパラをお使いになりたかったのか、平貝のぶつ切りとシャリを加えて蛤出汁のソースでご提供。まるで”洋食すが弥”のメニューですが、背骨はあくまでも和食のエッセンス。
菅谷氏の創造力と想像力、そして味覚の調和への確信。
参りました、グフッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎お通し：五点盛り
　・天端：塩釜
　・小柱
　・甘海老
　・フエダイ
　・数の子
⚫︎粒貝：炙り
　・搾菜
　・ワカメ
　・すだち
　・芝麻醤ソース
⚫︎〆鯵：
　・オリーブオイル
　・やま山葵
　・ガーリックチーズ
⚫︎クリーム煮：
　・白アスパラ
　・アスパラソバージュ
　・鯛子
　・平貝
　・蛤出汁
　・酢飯
⚫︎冷製パスタ：
　・馬糞ウニ
　・ズワイ蟹
　・桜海老
　・トリュフチーズペースト
⚫︎鮟肝：
　・トリュフカマンベールチーズ
⚫︎唐墨

＜握り＞
⚫︎中トロ：背ヒレ下、塩釜、150kg
⚫︎泥障烏賊
⚫︎血合い岸：メジマグロ、50kg
⚫︎エボ鯛：昆布締め
⚫︎大トロ：塩釜、150kg
⚫︎鰻：手巻き
　・大和芋
⚫︎ウニの究極二世帯住宅：
　・ムラサキウニ
　・馬糞ウニ
⚫︎太巻き：
　・マグロ全部位
⚫︎玉子
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・姿：純米大吟醸、無濾過生原酒、栃木
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、山田錦、瓶火入れ、千葉
・鳳凰美田：大吟醸、別誂至高、栃木
・田林：生酛、特別純米、宮城
・義侠：東条特A山田錦、田尻農園、愛知

4.12

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お通しの五種盛りです

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手前は旬のフエダイ。旨味の濃ゆい白身です

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甘海老です。菅谷氏はこのサイズがお好きなようで、確かに甘味と旨味が凝縮しております

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小柱です。大星では有りませんが、これはこれで好き

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塩釜の定置？の天端

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数の子で食感の変化を楽しみます

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栃木の銘酒

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粒貝と搾菜の芝麻醤ソース。酢橘の酸味がアクセントです

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このツブ貝は太くてデカい

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〆鰺のガーリックチーズとオリーブオイル、やま山葵。酸味とコクと辛味のマリアージュ

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旬の鰺。軽く〆て旨味を引き出しました

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胡蝶蘭かな？

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白アスパラガスのクリーム煮。右は平貝です。鯛子でコクを加え、アスパラソバージュで色味を整えます。

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クリーム煮だけれど出汁は蛤。背骨は和食です

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千葉の銘酒

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ウニパスタです

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トリュフチーズペーストｇソースの決め手です

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ズワイガニの共和えと桜海老です

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鮟肝とトリュフのカマンベールチーズ

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鮟肝です

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トリュフ風味のカマンベールチーズ

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唐墨です

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左から塩竃150kgの中トロ。背びれ下です。真ん中は50kgのメジマグロの血合い岸、右は大トロ

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塩竃150kgの大トロ

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真ん中はメジマグロの血合い岸です

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背ビレ下です

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栃木の銘酒

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背ビレ下です

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背ビレ下のドアップ

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障泥烏賊です

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障泥烏賊のドアップ

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メジマグロの血合い岸です。間に青混ぜの海苔を挟みます

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エボ鯛です。昆布〆です

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昆布〆のエボ鯛のドアップ

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大トロです

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大トロのドアップ

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鮪全部入り太巻きの具材です

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宮城の銘酒です

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鰻蒲焼きの手巻き。中には大和芋が潜みます

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バフンウニとムラサキウニです

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ウニの二世帯住宅、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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馬糞がムラサキをマウンティング

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愛知の銘酒。田尻農園の山田錦の特製です

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出汁の効いたお味噌汁。ホッと落ち着きます

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鮪全部入りの太巻きです

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菅谷氏の指が美しい

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鮪全部入りの太巻き

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端っこをいただきました

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玉子焼き

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2025/05/18 更新

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34回目

2025/02 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP5.0
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］

菅谷氏の独創力

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は二ヶ月ぶりのこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

ここんところの大寒波の影響で、北からも西からもお魚が集まるのか不安なラッコ。

でも大丈夫。
早くから予報が出ていたので、事前の手当ては万全。銀座の大親方のお店を含め、仲卸との絆は太い。

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいた内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
いつもながら菅谷氏の創造力、独創力に感嘆。
とりわけ、菅谷流オイルサーディン、ズワイ蟹のバターライスに河豚白子と蟹味噌の組み合わせには完全脱帽。
『思いついてみて試食したら、意外にいけたので・・・』と謙遜されますが、その閃きは、旧き良き江戸前寿司のキャンバスを軽くはみ出す豪胆さ。
映えを狙い過ぎて味を外した港区寿司は苦手ですが、菅谷氏のそれはラッコのどストライク。
味の濃さは好みの分かれるところですが、連日連夜の満席状況を拝見すると、食べログとかに声を出さない静かなファンの方も多いのかな。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎鱈のみぞれ汁
　・蛤出汁
⚫︎四点盛り
　・九絵
　・小柱
　・数の子
　・甘海老
⚫︎粒貝：
　・搾菜
　・四川風胡麻和え
⚫︎鮪の山掛け：
　・赤身
　・イクラ
　・大和芋
⚫︎オイルサーディン：
　・鰯：酢締め
　・オリーブオイル
　・ガーリックチーズ
　・やま山葵
⚫︎ズワイ蟹とフグ白子：
　・バターライス
　・虎河豚白子：炙り
　・卵黄：箱庭たまご
　・蟹味噌
　・チーズ
⚫︎鮟肝
⚫︎赤ウニ：塩水、大分
　・トリュフチーズ
⚫︎唐墨

＜握り＞
マグロはいずれも伊豆下田で水揚げ。
鰯を追い求めて津軽海峡を抜け、尻労沖を右折、岩手や宮城の沖合いの延縄を潜り抜けた個体。とうとう相模湾沖で捕まりました。

⚫︎縁側：塩〆一週間
⚫︎別れ身
⚫︎泥障烏賊
⚫︎赤身：青混ぜ海苔
⚫︎鰯
⚫︎大トロ：二週間熟成
⚫︎鰻：棒寿司
　・穴子のツメ
　・ねりシャリ
⚫︎ウニ軍艦：
　・馬糞ウニ：根室
　・ムラサキウニ：青森
⚫︎トロたく：太巻き
⚫︎玉子：箱庭たまご
⚫︎お味噌汁：アオサ

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶、ラッキーラベル（鯛が二尾）
・而今：純米吟醸、八反錦、生、名張
・郷宝：磨き五割、彗星、生、北海道
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、生原酒、山田錦、富津
・黒龍：干支ボトル、山田錦、福井県
・義侠：純米吟醸、東条特A山田錦、愛西
お酒は四合くらい

4.24

鮃の縁側です

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二種のウニのタワマン仕立て

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ブラックヒーロー。チューリップです。

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マグロのトロたく太巻き

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最初のお椀は鱈のみぞれ汁。蛤のお出汁です。寒い夜には嬉しい心遣い

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ツマミの四点盛り。手前は九絵です

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塩締めして無駄な水分を抜いて寝かせた小柱。貝の旨みが凝縮しておりました

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数の子。コリコリ食感が変化をもたらします

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甘海老。これも脱水の成果か、旨味が濃ゆい

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熟成感の半端ない大トロ

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粒貝と搾菜の四川風ソース

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この粒貝もデカい

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マグロの山掛け。大和芋です

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菅谷流、オイルサーディンです。強い酢締めで引き出された青魚の旨味をガーリックチーズのコクとやま山葵の辛味が絶妙に包み込み、盛り付け後に垂らしたオリーブオイルの香りでいただきます

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ズワイ蟹と蟹味噌を仕込んだバターライスの上に炙った河豚白子をトッピング

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超濃厚な蟹リゾットの完成

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$すが弥 - ミッキーマウス見たいかな\(//∇//)\$

ミッキーマウス見たいかな\(//∇//)\

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鮟肝です。冷やし固めた食感が好き

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大分の塩水ウニとガーリックチーズ。この組み合わせがまた絶妙

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唐墨です。少しずつ齧りながら握りまでの時間を過ごします

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今夜のマグロは三種。左から別れ身、赤身、大トロです。いずれも伊豆下田に揚がりました

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熟成感の半端ない縁側。これはウンマイ（＾◇＾）

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別れ身です。素敵なグラデーション

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別れ身のアップ

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泥障烏賊です

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泥障烏賊のアップ

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赤身です。中に青混ぜの海苔を挟んで鉄火風に仕上げます。香りが格段に向上

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赤身のアップ

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小骨まで溶けた鰯

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鰯のアップ

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鰻の棒寿司。穴子のツメを落とします。シャリは押寿司らしく、握りのシャリとは異なり、練って粘り気を出しました。見えないところに手が掛かっております

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$すが弥 - 鰻と海苔は合う\(//∇//)\$

鰻と海苔は合う\(//∇//)\

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ムラサキウニと馬糞ウニの競演です

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アオサのお味噌汁。お出汁が効いています

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$すが弥 - 実は端っこ。嬉しい\(//∇//)\$

実は端っこ。嬉しい\(//∇//)\

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箱庭たむごを贅沢に使用した卵焼き

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箱庭たまごはウンマイ

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箱庭たまごの卵黄です

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塩締めして一週間寝かせた鮃の縁側です。3kgの個体なので縁側も太く厚く広い

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最初は恵比寿の小瓶

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鯛が二匹のラッキーラベルです

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名張の銘酒

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富津の銘酒。珍しい生酒が手に入りました

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北海道の銘酒。酒米は彗星

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黒龍の干支ボトルです

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入り口

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アムステルダムに住んでいた頃を思い出しました

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ラッコの顔はデカい

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2025/02/09 更新

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33回目

2024/12 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の創造する力

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜はおそよ二か月ぶりにこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

予約時間の六時に暖簾をくぐり、右から二番目の指定席に座ります。
正面には菅谷氏の笑顔。

『今年一年、有難うございました』
『こちらこそ、いつも口に合うつまみと握りを有難うございます』とラッコ。

続々と現れる他のお客様。
この夜は九名のようですね。

全員が揃ったところで、菅谷氏が端から皆様にご挨拶。

ラッコのところでは、『今日はやま幸さんのパーティで、黒龍さんから提供された非売品の日本酒をご用意していますので、どうぞお楽しみください』

『うっ、ヤバいんじゃ無いの、グフッ』
『売り物じゃ無いので、気になさらずに・・・』
『えっ、ほんと？』

見れば紅色のボトルに『鮪屋』と書かれたエチケットが・・・！

面白い。
しかも純大吟。二左衛門や石田屋と同じクラスなのかな？

早速グラスを所望。
舐めるようにチビチビチビ。
ほおおおおっ、深い溜息と荒い鼻息、東条山田錦の甘い吐息に埋もれるラッコ。

ああっ、幸せやなぁ。

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいたコース内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
今夜の出色はズワイ蟹の小皿。
甲羅につめたり蟹味噌を添えて酢の物で、という昔ながらの典型的な仕立てでは有りません。
シャリはバターの香りを纏い、ガーリックチーズでコクを添加。極めつけは、真岡市はハコニワファームさんの”箱庭たまご”の登場。
〆の玉子焼きでも使われておりますが、茜色のその卵黄をTKG仕立てで混ぜ混ぜ混ぜ。たっぷりの空気を含ませてフワフワに仕上げます。
このTKGはタマラン！
調べたら、グルタミン酸とタウリンの含有量がケージ飼いの鶏卵とは段違いの値。
食感の変化にキンキの炙りもトッピング。シャリがバターを纏っているので、ノドグロはNG。だって脂がくどすぎるもんね。その点、身質がやや硬めのキンキならほど良い脂で、小匙で身を崩してTKGに絡めると、アイヤァ、ここはもうグラン・パラディーゾ。
しかし、この食材の組み合わせなんて、ラッコの硬い頭では考えもつきません。
菅谷氏の創造する力に敬服感服し、『来年も引き続きよろしくお願いします』と呟くラッコでした。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎お造り四点盛り：
　・マハタ
　・甘海老
　・鰤：山葵挟み
　・小柱：やま山葵とおかか和え
⚫︎粒貝：昆布森
　・搾菜
　・芝麻醤和え
⚫︎真鱈：白子
　・出汁漬け：飛魚、鰹節
　・バター
　・ガーリックチーズ
⚫︎ズワイ蟹：
　・バターライス
　・箱庭たまご：卵黄
　・キンキ：炙り
　・ガーリックチーズ
⚫︎アテの四種盛り：
　・鮟肝
　・赤ウニ：大分、塩水、養殖、トリュフチーズ
　・唐墨
　・バチコ

＜握り＞
⚫︎縞鯵：熟成、皮目炙り
⚫︎背トロ：厚岸、血合い岸
⚫︎墨烏賊：三日寝かせ、酢橘
⚫︎赤身：厚岸、天端下、海苔挟み
⚫︎皮剥：肝乗せ、広島
⚫︎鰯
⚫︎カマスジ：厚岸、海苔挟み
⚫︎馬糞ウニ：利尻
⚫︎煮穴子
⚫︎太巻き：鮪全部入り
⚫︎玉子焼き
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・鮪屋：黒龍、純米大吟醸、東条山田錦、福井県
・古伊万里前：純米吟醸、山田錦、伊万里
・十石：純米大吟醸、京都産祝、伏見
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、山田錦、瓶火入れ、富津
・会津中将：純米、会津若松
・義侠：純米吟醸、東条特A山田錦、田尻農園、　　　　
　　　　愛西
日本酒は四合くらい

4.26

最初はいつも通り、恵比寿の小瓶でスタート

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最初のツマミの四点盛りです

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これでチビチビと日本酒をいただきます

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熟成っせた鰤です。中にはたっぷりの山葵を挟みます

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小柱です。やま山葵とオカカで和えました

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甘味の強い小ぶりな甘海老を敢えて供します

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真旗です。この旨味には悶絶

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これが黒龍の非売品。東条山田錦の35％磨きの純大吟なので、二左衛門や石田屋と同クラスかと思います。

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伊万里の銘酒です

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左の錫グラスが前、右が鮪屋です

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昆布森のでっかい粒貝と搾菜の芝麻醤和え

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真鱈の白子を飛魚と鰹の出汁に漬けて仕上げに炙りました。バターを香りづけに添加し、ガーリックチーズのトッピングで全体の味をまとめます

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白子の塩炙りやポン酢添えには無い斬新さに敬服

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京都の銘酒

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ズワイ蟹とガーリックチーズとシャリを箱庭たまごの卵黄でTKG仕立てにしました

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トッピングはキンキです。ノドグロほど脂ギッシュではないので、TKGの旨味を邪魔しません

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全てを混ぜ混ぜしたところ。箱庭たまごの卵黄おお陰でフワッフワの疾患です

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ミッキーマウスに見立てました

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この鮟肝がラッコの大好物

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大分産の養殖塩水赤ウニです。トリュフチーズと合わせました

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唐墨です

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バチコです

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富津の銘酒

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左から背トロ、赤身（天端下）、カマスジです

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シマアジ。熟成させています。皮目を軽く炙りました

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会津若松の銘酒

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背トロです。厚岸に揚がった200kg強の巨体

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三日寝かせで無駄な水分を抜いた墨烏賊です。丸く湯通しして酢橘でいただきました

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天端の下の赤身です

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菅谷氏の指はホントに長い

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広島のカワハギ。肝がデッカイ。まるでスパムみたいヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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小骨も溶ける酢〆の鰯

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愛西の銘酒

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厚岸で水揚げされたカマスジ。軽く炙ります。中には青混ぜの海苔が潜みます

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菅谷名物、馬糞ウニタワーです

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利尻のバフンウニよ再び(＾◇＾)

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上半分をツマミでいただきます

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〆はお茶でしょ

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穴子です

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鮪全部入り太巻きの具材

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鮪全部入りの準備が進みます。食感の変化を生むトビッコと刻み沢庵

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大トロ、蛇腹、カマスジ、赤身の切り落としを乗っけます

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菅谷氏の指が長いヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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しっかりと巻き込みます

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鮪全部入り太巻きの完成

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中身が飛び出ないように布巾をストッパーにして斬り付けます

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鮪全部入りの太巻きが揃います

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端っこをゲット

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ひと口ではおチョボ口に入らないので、二回に分けていただきました

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茜色の玉子焼き

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ハコニワファームさんの箱庭たまご

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生華です

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今年も有難うございました

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2024/12/16 更新

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32回目

2024/10 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の鮪の赤壁と蟹の白璧

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

アアッ、【侍タイムスリッパー】には泣かせられた、笑わせられた。低予算映画の筈なのに、テレビ局がバックについている自称大作より、シナリオも演出も遥かい面白い。

場面場面を思い出しながら、麻布十番駅からノテノテノテ。六時ちょうどに引き戸が空けられ、菅谷氏の正面に席を引かれます。

ルーティーンと言える恵比寿の小瓶で喉を潤し、さあってと、今夜はどんな革新的ななお皿で楽しませてくれるのかな、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいた内容は以下の通り。ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
ツブ貝と搾菜、ズワイ蟹とイクラの太巻き、コンテチーズと赤身のタルタル仕立て、山葵大根おろしを包んだ鰤大根風、サンタバーバラの巨大赤ウニと青森のムラサキウニの揃い踏みなど、その革新的な組み合わせに眼を瞠ります。

とは言え、背骨はちゃんと鮨のつまみ。
革新と正統。それらアンビバレントな二つが、菅谷氏の手で見事に共存しておりました。

加えて、締めの玉子焼きには真岡市の箱庭たまごの茜を使用。江戸時代の長襦袢のような濃ゆい茜色の卵黄ですが、一個約400円の、まさに珠玉のひと玉。

普通卵の玉子焼きと比べますが、一目見て分かる色の違い。芝海老と山芋の正統派の素材が寄り添い、プロレスに喩えるなら、アントニオ猪木氏のストロングスタイルそのもの。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎お通し：五点盛り
　・鰹
　・甘海老
　・小柱
　・クエ
　・数の子
⚫︎ツブ貝：
　・胡麻和え
　・ワカメ
　・搾菜
⚫︎タルタル：
　・漬け
　・オリーブオイル
　・やま山葵
　・ネギオカカ
　・コンテ
⚫︎鰤：羅臼
　・山葵おろし
⚫︎キンキ：網走
　・炙り
　・ウニソース
　・針海苔
⚫︎鮟肝
⚫︎唐墨
⚫︎赤ウニ：大分、塩水
⚫︎ズワイ蟹：
　・太巻き
　・イクラ：塩漬け
⚫︎ボタン海老：銚子
　・炙り
　・ガーリックチーズ
　・オリーブオイル

＜握り＞
マグロは全て、塩釜の巻き網です。

⚫︎金目鯛：利尻昆布〆
⚫︎背トロ：背鰭下
⚫︎泥障烏賊
⚫︎赤身：天端下、混トビ海苔挟み
⚫︎中トロ：漬け
⚫︎小肌
⚫︎カマトロ：炙り
⚫︎ウニタワー：
　・ムラサキ：青森
　・赤ウニ：サンタバーバラ
⚫︎穴子：対馬
⚫︎太巻き：マグロ全部入り
⚫︎お味噌汁：生海苔
⚫︎玉子：箱庭たまごの茜

＜お酒類＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・龍勢：ゆらぎの凪、八反錦、竹原
・義侠：純米大吟醸、田尻東条特A山田錦、愛西
・Waka-Ebisu Cludy：えべっさんの休日
　　　　　　　　　　　　純米吟醸、伊賀
・初亀：純米大吟醸、田尻農園、東条愛山、藤枝

4.26

最初はエビスの小瓶でスタート

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最初のつまみ五点セット

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クエです。熟成感が半端ない

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k津尾です。薬味の生姜葱オカカとの相性がバッグん

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小柱と、あえて小さめの甘海老。ネットリとした甘みが特徴です

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数の子です。エッジの立った塩味が口に合います

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羅臼の鰤です。背中側ですが、この分厚さにはビックリポン

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塩釜の巻き網です

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竹原の銘酒

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これが日本酒を呼ぶ

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羅臼の鰤の中には大根おろしと本山葵が隠れて、鰤大根のような味わい

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コンテチーズと赤身のタルタル。チーズの塩味でいただく逸品です

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北海道にキンキの炙りです。下にはウニソースとシャリ、針海苔が潜みます

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キンキとウニソースをオリーブオイルでまとめました

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握り前のツマミ、三点セット

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定番の鮟肝

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大分の塩水赤ウニ。養殖です

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半生仕立ての唐墨です

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愛西氏の銘酒

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赤壁ならぬ白壁の制作中

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中身はチャンクして届けられる北海道のズワイ蟹です

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ズワイ蟹お太巻きに塩漬けイクラをトッピング

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ズワイ蟹がムッチリと詰め込まれています

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塩釜の巻き網です。一昨日の【めい乃】さと同じです

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今夜の踊り子さん達。手前は熟成のカマスジです

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金目鯛の利尻昆布〆

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背ビレ下です

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伊賀の銘酒です

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障泥烏賊です

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赤身です。天端の下の部位。中に海苔を挟みます

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ガーリックチーズです

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炙ったボタンエビの上にガーリックチーズを摺りおろし、オリーブオイルで風味付け

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中トロの漬けです

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小肌です

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藤枝の銘酒です

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カマスジの炙り

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青森のムラサキの上にサンタバーバラのデッカイ赤ウニがマウンティング

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左がサンタバーバラの赤ウニ、右手が青森のムラサキです

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対馬の穴子です。二年ぶりとのこと

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赤壁の完成

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定番のマグロ全部入りの太巻き

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生海苔のお味噌汁

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1個400円の箱庭たまごで作りました。山芋と少々の砂糖、芝海老と素材は正統派。やはり無kしながらの玉子焼きはウンマイ

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壁にはバラが飾られます

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2024/10/21 更新

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31回目

2024/08 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気4.5
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の誠意

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は二か月ぶりのこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

六時ちょうどに引き戸が開いて中にご案内。いつもの通り、菅谷氏の正面に席を引かれ、恵比寿の小瓶で先ずは一服。

この夜はご夫婦が一組とカップルが二組、おひとり様がラッコを含めて二名の合計八名でスタート。

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいたコース内容は以下の通り。ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
葉月はラッコにとって特別な月。
愛妻の命日をご記憶の菅谷氏。小皿が七つとひときわ大きな丸皿が板に並びます。
北海道のツブ貝を斬り付け小皿に盛り付けますが、フムムッ、丸皿はどうするんやろ・・・？
そこで菅谷氏が取り出したのが活の黒鮑。
脚の裏が濃ゆい暗緑色。南房総で荒布や若布、昆布を食べまくったせいなのかな？
活の鮑を出すお店も少なくなりました。
そう言えば前回『銀座の小笹か三原橋の二葉ですよね、あの歯応えが好きなんですよ・・・』なんて会話を交わしておりました。
そのことを覚えておいでだったんですね。加えて愛妻が帰天した十年前と同じ熱い夜。
菅谷氏の誠意をひしひしと感じながら、黒鮑の陰膳を合掌していただきました。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎お通し：五点盛り
　・鰹
　・甘海老：富山
　・九絵
　・数の子：無着色
　・小柱
⚫︎活黒鮑：南房総、400g
　・薬味：肝たたき、塩、中華風醤油
　・付け添え：搾菜、和布
⚫︎蒸黒鮑：南房総、400g
　・コンテ
　・肝煮
　・赤身ユッケ：卵黄、酢橘、シャリ
⚫︎鱒の介ご飯：
　・ウニソース
　・オリーブオイル
　・ガーリックチーズ
　・針海苔
⚫︎握りまでの四点セット：
　・鮟肝
　・赤ウニ：大分、塩水
　・唐墨
　・バチコ

＜握り＞
鮪はカナダの生。
畑中葉子（♪カナダからの手紙）を思い出してしまいましたヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

⚫︎フエダイ：鹿児島
⚫︎背ナカ：別れ身
⚫︎泥障烏賊
⚫︎赤身：海苔はさみ
⚫︎ボタン海老：新潟
⚫︎腹カミ：漬け
⚫︎鰯
⚫︎砂摺り
⚫︎煮蛤：鹿島
⚫︎赤ウニ：藍島
⚫︎太巻き：鮪全部入り
⚫︎玉子：上白糖、三温糖、蜂蜜
⚫︎お味噌汁：生海苔

＜お酒＞
表の日本酒のメモを女将から渡されます。
『こちらの他に親方が隠し酒を用意しているみたいですよ』と微笑みます。
聞けば封をした状態の十四代特別仕様と雪の茅舎が目の前に。
お披露目されたら呑まぬはラッコの恥。それに口開け。もちろん二種類ともいただきました。

・恵比寿：小瓶
・久保田：翠寿、大吟醸、新潟
・十四代：エクストラ白鶴錦、純米大吟醸、村山
・雪の茅舎：純米大吟醸、由利本荘
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、富津

4.25

最初はいつも通り、エビスの小瓶でスタート

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お通しの子皿を盛り付け中

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五点盛りです

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こちらはクエ。良い感じに熟成しています。左は鰹です

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手前は富山の甘海老。奥は小柱

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塩抜きしただけの無着色の数の子です

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立派な房総の黒鮑です。400gです」

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貝柱を薄く斬り付けます

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黒鮑に合わせて久保田の翠寿を選択

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活黒鮑です

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鮑は活が好き。コリコリ食感で噛めば噛むほどグルタミン酸やイノシン酸が溢れます

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脚の深緑色が美しい

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三種の薬味でいただきました

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黒鮑の活の肝ソース

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豆板醤かな？ちょいと辛めの中華風でした

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活黒鮑と肝ソース

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400gの黒鮑の殻です

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こちらは蒸し鮑。同様に南房総の黒鮑です

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蒸し鮑を斬り付けます

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蒸し鮑の小皿が並びます

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蒸し鮑です。黒鮑です

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蒸し鮑のアップ

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まるで和牛のユッケですが、赤身です

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蒸し鮑にコンテチーズと赤身のユッケをトッピング。これが合う！

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隠し酒です。十四代の特別仕様

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マスノスケ。の片面炙り。底にはウニソースで和えたシャリ。トッピングはガーリックチーズです

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全ても混ぜ合わせました。まるで和食のリゾットです

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塩水赤ウニと唐墨、鮟肝の三点セット

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この鮟肝が大好物

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大分の塩水赤ウニです

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唐墨です

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バチコです。ちぎって日本酒と合わせます

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隠し酒です

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今夜の踊り子さん達。カナダから空輸されました。ああっ、畑中葉子を思い出す(≧◇≦)

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白フエダイです。鹿児島です

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背ビレ下。通称、別れ身です。近海物の身痩せマグロより遥かに上質

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障泥烏賊

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赤身の漬け

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富津の銘酒

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新潟産のボタン海老。肉厚でした

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腹カミの漬け。中トロです

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鰯。強めの塩入れと酢漬けですが、これが口に合う

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藍島の赤ウニ。鮨あらいさんからのお裾分け。太い信頼関係が伺えます

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蛇腹です。太いスジが見えますが、まったく歯に当たりません

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鹿島の煮蛤。こちらのツメも好き

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藍島の赤ウニのタワーマンション仕立て。繊細な香りと甘味なので、青混ぜの海苔は不要

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生海苔のお碗

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マグロ全部入りの太巻き

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上白糖、三温糖、蜂蜜の玉子焼き。これはウンマイ

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2024/08/11 更新

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30回目

2024/06 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP5.0
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の真髄

土曜日の夕暮れです。

東麻布です。

正午過ぎから始めたウォーキングの終点が、こちらの【すが弥】さん。

時間調整しながら六時ちょいと前に到着し、開店と同時に菅谷氏の正面にご案内。

なかなか素敵なお値段になりましたが、刺さっちゃったんですよね、ラッコの小さなハートに。

個性が明快なので、口に合う合わないはその人次第。つまみはともかく、酸味の際立つ濃い目のシャリが好みのラッコには、ドストライクの握り。

懐は傷みますが、もうどうにも止まらない、グフッ\(//∇//)\

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいたからと内容は以下の通り。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎三点盛り：
　・鰹
　・小柱
　・九絵
　・薬味：本山葵、ネギオカカ山わさび
⚫︎ツブ貝：昆布森
　・搾菜
　・ワカメ
　・胡麻ソース：中華風、アゴ出汁割り
　・青混ぜ海苔
⚫︎蝦蛄：小樽
　・ガーリックチーズ
　・クリガニ：オリーブオイル、バター
⚫︎冷製パスタ：
　・ムラサキウニ：八戸
　・桜海老
　・針海苔
⚫︎お酒のつまみ三点セット：
　・鮟肝
　・唐墨
　・稚鮎タタキ：花醤粒炊き

＜握り＞
マグロは全て三厩の一本釣りです。仲卸はやま幸のピンピンのピンでした。

⚫︎勘八：一週間寝かせ
⚫︎中トロ：背鰭下
⚫︎泥障烏賊：江戸前
⚫︎赤身：海苔はさみ
⚫︎中トロ：腹カミ、血合い岸
⚫︎しめ鯖：八戸
⚫︎砂擦り
⚫︎ボタン海老：炙り、酢橘、新潟
⚫︎イクラ&ムラサキウニ：八戸
⚫︎太巻き：鮪全部入り
⚫︎玉子
⚫︎お椀：クリガニの出汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・聖：純米吟醸、前橋
・十九：ハシビロコウ、純米大吟醸、長野
・十九：トリフォリオ、純米吟醸、瓶火入れ、長野
・東洋坂：越後伝衛門、生酒、新潟
・東魁盛：大吟醸、斗瓶取り、出品酒、富津

4.17

最初はいつも通り、恵比寿の小瓶でスタート

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最初の三点盛りです

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こちらはクエ

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のぼり鰹です。これはネギおかかと山ワサビの薬味が合う

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名残りの小柱。二枚貝の季節はそろそろ終わりを迎えます

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のぼり鰹に薬味を乗っけたところ

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昆布森のツブ貝。ツマは搾菜、新若布に青混ぜの海苔。飛魚出汁で伸ばした中華風の胡麻ソースが絶妙な味わい。まるで中華の海鮮冷菜みたいです

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小樽の蝦蛄にガーリックチーズを摺りおろしました。下にはオリーブオイルとバターで和えたクリガニが潜みます。全く想像できない組み合わせですが、癖のある蝦蛄の香りが中和され、ともすればパサパサの己出もシットリ食感。何とも言えない美味でした

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長野の銘酒。十九です。そのハシビロコウ

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八戸のムラサキウニの冷製パスタ。桜海老の食感がアクセント

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背トロです

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三厩の一本釣りの砂摺りです

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握りのネタを斬り付ける間のツマミ三点盛り

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ラッコの大好物の鮟肝煮

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花醤粒で炊いた稚鮎のタタキです

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唐墨。ちょっとづつ齧りながら目の前で握りのネタが揃うのを静かに見つめます

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今夜の踊り子さん達です

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上段左から、背ビレ下の別れ身、赤身の漬け、腹カミの漬け、砂摺りです

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長野の銘酒。十九です。こちらはトリフォリオ。イタリア語でクローバーの意味

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一週間ほど寝かせたカンパチのお腹部位。まるで生ハムです

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新潟の銘酒

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背ビレ下。別名、別れ身です

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江戸前の障泥烏賊。このくらいのサイズがちょうど良い

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赤身の漬け。シャリとネタの間に海苔を挟みます

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腹カミの血合い岸です

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八戸のサバを〆ました

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三厩の一本釣りの砂摺り

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富津の銘酒です

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新潟のボタン海老の炙りです

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八戸のムラサキウニとイクラのタワマンです

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クリガニの甲羅と脚の出汁

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マグロの太巻きの準備が整いました

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まけるかな？

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端っこをゲットヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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カステラ風の玉子

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クリガニタワーヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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今が旬のクリガニです

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クリガニの甲羅から打ち子と身を取り出します

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クリガニの内子と身をオリーブオイルとバターで混ぜ混ぜして寝かせます

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クリガニの脚は剥くのが大変なので、お味噌汁の出汁にしました

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2024/06/10 更新

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29回目

2024/03 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP5.0
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の舎利

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜はおよそ三か月ぶりのこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

今年に入り、『ズワイ蟹に鱶鰭を合わせてみようと思います』なんてご案内をいただいておりましたが、なかなか都合が合わず、三月になってからのお伺い。

ズワイ蟹はギリかな・・・、なんて、でも、まっ、いっか！虎河豚白子も鮟肝もあるだろうしなんて高をくくっていると、アイヤァ、来週からは虎河豚もズワイもオシマイということでああっ、良かったぁ、ギリギリセーフやねんな、アハッ、と一安心。

新国立美術館からノテノテと歩いて六時十分前に到着すると、既にインバウンドのカップルとお一人様の男子が外でお待ち。ほどなくご夫婦と思しき二組がいらっしゃり、八名が揃ったところでちょうど扉が開きます。

さてさてそれでは本題。
いただいた内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
素材の地味と滋味をいかす薄味のお鮨も好きですが、こちらの濃ゆい味は別枠。
なんといっても酢の立った舎利が口に合う。聞けば舎利が全ての背骨とのこと。先ずは舎利ありきで、それからこの強い味わいをシカと受け止めるネタを揃えるという段取り。
なるほどなるほど、脂を蓄えたネタは更に熟成させ、淡白な白身は寝かせて旨味を凝縮、青魚は強い酢で小骨を溶かします。
この仕立てがなんとも口に合う。
握りの仕舞い際に入ると、頬っぺたの裏側まで〆られたような感覚に襲われますが、でも大丈夫。今宵はズワイ蟹と鱶鰭のオジヤで完全中和。
こればっかりは好みですし、超高級店としての価格設定ですが、ホンモノの舎利を味わいたい方、強めのガツン味が好きな方、ピンの中のピンネタを愛する方には、是非ご賞味していただきたいお店のひとつです。

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎お造り：
　・メジマグロ：赤身
　・真鯛：小柴
　・平貝
　・小柱
⚫︎メジマグロ：バターソテー、トリュフチーズ
⚫︎帆立：天然、XO醤、有明海苔
⚫︎鮟肝
⚫︎唐墨
⚫︎虎河豚白子：リゾット、馬糞ウニ

＜握り＞
今夜の鮪は舞阪の一本釣りです。やま幸さんのピンピンです。
⚫︎縁側：明石、4kg
⚫︎背トロ：背鰭下、一週間寝かせ
⚫︎墨烏賊：小柴、酢橘、五日寝かせ
⚫︎赤身：海苔挟み
⚫︎金目鯛：山わさび、銚子
⚫︎中トロ：漬け、二週間、舞阪
⚫︎鳥貝：室津
⚫︎大トロ：舞阪
⚫︎鰯：一週間
⚫︎イクラとムラサキウニ：相盛り、八戸
⚫︎松葉蟹と鱶鰭雑炊
⚫︎鮪太巻き
⚫︎卵
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・田酒：特別純米、青森
・惣邑：純米吟醸、長井
・浅間山：純米吟醸、東御
・Kiss of Fire：純米大吟醸、加賀

最初はいつも通り、エビスビール

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柵を取り出したときは血色の良い鰹に見えましたが、実はメジ鮪でした

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メジマグロです

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奥から時計回りに、メジマグロ、小柱、平貝、小柴の真鯛です

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薬味は生姜と山ワサビオカカ

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今が旬のメジマグロのトロはバターソテーでも登場。奥はトリュフチーズです。

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天然ホタテの炙りにほぼ貝柱のXO醤と有明海苔をトッピング

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今夜の日本酒は田酒でスタート

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ラッコの大好物の鮟肝煮。この硬めの食感とたまり醤油系の香りがタマラン！

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仲買いさん、お手製の鮟肝。まるでハードチーズ、大好き

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室津の鳥貝です。貝の季節のスタートです

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山形の銘酒

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トラフグの白子。今シーズンの最終です

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白子をつぶしたところ

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下にはウニシャリが隠れておりました

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今夜の踊り子さん達

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鮪もそろそろ産卵のために南下する途中なんですね

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明石の鮃の縁側です。4kgなので、まるでザブトン並みの大きさ。これｈ抜群にウンマイ

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群馬の銘酒。季節限定の春酒です。女将のお勧めに従い初体験、美味しヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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背ビレ下の中トロ

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小柴の墨烏賊。五日寝かせて強いシャリをジャストミート

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赤身です。中に海苔を挟みます。香りが抜群

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銚子の金目鯛。軽く炙って脂を表面に浮かせます

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二週間寝かせた中トロの漬け

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一ノ蔵の輸出仕様

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室津の鳥貝、デカい、軽く湯通し

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大トロ。蛇腹部位です

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鰯です。小骨まで溶けています

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鮪全部入り太巻きのジュン分が進みます

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イクラと青森のムラサキウニの合い盛り二段重ね

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ズワイ蟹と鱶鰭のおじや

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ワガママをいってXO醤をトッピングして味変

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鮪全部入りの太巻き

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ああっ、この鮪に埋もれたい

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お味噌汁です

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太巻き。端っこはお若い方に譲ります

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基本に徹した鮨屋の玉子

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チューリップ。女将の見立てです

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2024/03/11 更新

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28回目

2023/12 訪問

夜の点数：4.9
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気4.5
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の背骨

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は二ヶ月ぶりのこちら【すが弥】さんに、飲み友紳士と二人でお伺いしました。

いつもの通り、カウンターの奥の席に座り、先ずは恵比寿の小瓶で乾杯。八月にご一緒したこちら、そして先月の神楽坂での飲み過ぎを反省しながら、『今夜は抑え気味にしますね・・・』と、女将に一言。

『抑え気味の気味ってところが我々らしいっすね』とその紳士。
『意思の弱さは隠せないっす、グフッ』とラッコ。

『フフッ、無理よ無理、無理なのよぉ、エヘッ』と言ったか言わないか、オヤジ二人の無意味な会話を聞きながら、後ろでニコニコと微笑む女将。
その手には、直筆の日本酒メニューがしっかりと握られておりました。

『いやぁ、ラッコさんのレビューはチョイエロというより、どエロかも知れません』と呟く紳士。

『ええっ、滲み出てますか・・・？』
『はい、滲み出るどころか、ダダ漏れっす』
『アイヤァ！』
『我々の業界で言う、ウージングじゃないっすね』
『グッ、グフッ』
『インコンティネンスっす』
『えっ、イン⚫︎（ピー音）！なんで知ってんやねん』
『いや、イン⚫︎テンツじゃなくて、インコ』
『あっ、失禁ね。フムフムフム』
『でもお鮨自体がエロいっすもん、仕方ないっすよ』

『ワタシもちょいエロ、好きです』と、割って入る菅谷氏。
知らんゾォ、後で女将さんに刺されても知らんからなぁ、アハッ\(//∇//)\

『そろそろお持ちしましょうかね？』と女将。
『はい、そうっすね』と白旗をあげ、日本酒のメモに目を通す意志の弱いオヤジがふたり・・・、グフッ\(//∇//)\

さてさて、毎度のことながら前置きが長くなりました。ここからは真面目にレビューいたします。

いただいたツマミと握りは以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
タイトルの背骨とは、菅谷氏のシャリを指した形容。強い酢が苦手な方も多いかと思いますが、新之助の新米と古米をブレンドした硬めの炊き上げ、立ち昇る酢の図太く分厚い香気。
その強靭な土台を基準に、全てのネタの仕込みを計算します。

ツマミに添えるブルーチーズやXO醬もオリーブオイルも、決して昔ながらの江戸前鮨では有り得ない薬味ですが、それもこれも全ては、お店の中心たるシャリに至るまでのアプローチにすぎません。

と言っても、別に傾奇者ぶっているわけではなく、その背骨には【鮨あらい】で仕込まれた熱い矜持が、江戸前鮨の王道の技とともに漲っております。

＜ツマミ＞
⚫︎お造り盛り合わせ：
　・九絵
　・勘八：二週間寝かせ
　・鰯
　・小柱
　・鰹
　・薬味：やま山葵ネギオカカ、本山葵
⚫︎白子：バター焼き
　・薬味：ブルーチーズ、本山葵
⚫︎天然帆立：炙り
　・XO醬
　・本山葵
⚫︎酒のアテ三種：
　・唐墨
　・鮟肝
　・ムラサキウニ：豊後の磯守、蓄養
⚫︎金目鯛：
　・ウニ卵黄ソース
　・オリーブオイル

＜握り＞
⚫︎鮃：明石
⚫︎背トロ：大間、釣り
⚫︎墨烏賊
⚫︎赤身：噴火湾
⚫︎皮剥：肝（塩をあてて三日寝かせ）
⚫︎カマスジ：炙り
⚫︎大トロ
⚫︎鰯
⚫︎馬糞ウニとムラサキウニ
⚫︎マグロ：太巻き
⚫︎お味噌汁：大根おろし、黒七味
⚫︎玉子

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・羽根屋：純米吟醸、生原酒、富山
・雑賀：純米吟醸、辛口しぼりたて、紀の川
・浅間山：純米、しぼりたて、群馬
・義侠：純米、愛西
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、瓶火入れ、富津

まるでパウンドケーキのような鮟肝

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天然帆立のXO醬乗せ

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マグロ全部入りの太巻き。端っこをゲット（＾◇＾）

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今夜の踊り子さん達。手前が大間の一本釣り。奥が噴火湾の定置網

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青森のムラサキと北海道の馬糞ウニ

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上から時計回りに、鰯、鰹、小柱、九絵、勘八。白身と薬味のやま山葵ネギオカカが抜群に相性が良い（＾◇＾）

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カツオにやま山葵ネギオカカを乗っけたところ

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真鱈の白子のバター焼き。バターの塩味、ブルーチーズの苦味、本山葵の辛味がまさに垂涎のカルテット

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来月からは虎河豚の白子に変わるようです

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この天然帆立はデカい

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大分の蓄養ムラサキウニ。豊洲に一日置きに10枚入荷。それを菅谷氏と麻布十番のメイさんで分け合うそうです

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お酒のアテ、三種。ミッキーマウスに見たてました

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この焼豚のような鮟肝がラッコの大好物

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豊後の磯守

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ひねものの唐墨。チビチビと齧って日本酒を楽しみます

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金目鯛の卵黄ウニソースとオリーブオイル掛け

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混ぜ混ぜしたところ

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背トロ。全くスジがなく舌の上で溶けました

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墨烏賊

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赤身。中に混とびの海苔をはさみます

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皮剥。塩をあてて三日寝かせた肝が抜群に美味い。まるで海の加塩バター

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カマスジの大トロ。軽く炙ります

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鰯。小骨が溶ける酢締め

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大トロ

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カステラ風の玉子焼き

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大根おろしのお味噌汁

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最初はお約束の恵比寿でスタート

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富山の銘酒

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群馬の銘酒

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和歌山の銘酒

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愛知の銘酒

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富津の銘酒

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$すが弥 - 見せていただいたけど、恐くて飲めなかった\(//∇//)\$

見せていただいたけど、恐くて飲めなかった\(//∇//)\

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壁の胡蝶蘭。女将の差配か？

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左はラッコです

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2023/12/17 更新

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27回目

2023/10 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の静かな気勢

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は初台お嬢をお誘いし、二ヶ月ぶりのこちら、【すが弥】さんにお伺いしました。

前回の八月は、季節柄、ラッコの大好物の鮟肝はお休み中。あのたまり醤油の濃ゆい旨味に浸かった鮟肝さまに出逢えるのか、ドキドキしながら開店の六時を待ちます。

軒下でまったりしていると、通り雨がシトシトと路面を濡らす中、しばらく振りの初台お嬢の到着。タッパが有るので遠目でも一目瞭然。

ラッコの姿を認めたのか、手を振りながら思わず駆け出すお嬢。そんな、駆け出さなくてもええやん、とまるで娘を見るような温かい眼差しの好々爺。

『アハッ、赤羽橋の駅を出たら逆方向に歩いちゃいました\(//∇//)\』とお嬢。

『ワタシ、ドがつくくらいの方向音痴なんです、グフッ』

そう言えば、前回もなんだかそんなプロローグだったような気がする・・・

それはともかく、先日の對馬さんのお誘いを先約有りでやむなくお断りしたお詫びを済ませ、表玄関の撮影をしていると扉が開いてご案内のスタート。

二人はカウンターの奥に座り、恵比寿の小瓶をお願いします。

さてさてそれでは本題。
いただいたコース内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
ブルーチーズにオリーブオイル。
旧来の江戸前鮨の範疇を破る傾いたツマミに、今夜も熱い舌鼓を打つラッコ。
特色を出したい新店や遊び心を添加したツマミは何処にでも有りますが、『こりゃ違うだろ』『遊びすぎやねん』と感じることもままあるのが正直なところ。
しかし菅谷氏の傾いたツマミは違う。
古典の江戸前の技量が、太い背骨として屹立しているのでしょう、異色の組み合わせでも全くのハズレなし。
店名から【鮨】を外して唯一無二の航海に挑む菅谷氏。
決してお安いお値段ではありませんが、比べる対象が無いので納得するしか有りません。
次回は年末。
コースの中心を担うマグロもさらに磨かれている筈。早くもドキドキがとまりません。

＜コース内容＞
⚫︎お造り：
　・カツオ
　・小柱
　・鮃：明石
　・縁側：明石
　・薬味：本山葵、山わさびとネギとオカカのタタキ
⚫︎ボタン海老：炙り、北海道
　・薬味：ブルーチーズ、海老味噌、本山葵
⚫︎鰤シャブ：噴火湾
　・薬味：本山葵、XO醬
⚫︎赤ウニ：唐津
⚫︎鮟肝
⚫︎唐墨
⚫︎バチコ
⚫︎金目鯛ご飯：
　・馬糞ウニ
　・縮緬雑魚
　・オリーブオイル

＜握り＞
シャリは新之助の古米と新米のブレンド。酢は希釈した薄めの赤酢と米酢？
硬めの仕上げて、一粒一粒の独立感が半端無い。
このシャリがラッコの口にあいます。
マグロは全て大間の延縄。十日寝かせの149kgのピンピン。

⚫︎赤身：混とび
⚫︎中トロ：背鰭の別れ身
⚫︎縞鯵：高知、天然
⚫︎大トロ：漬け
⚫︎イクラ
⚫︎カマスジ：炙り
⚫︎小肌
⚫︎車海老：養殖、宇部
⚫︎馬糞ウニ：カネシン水産、北方四島
⚫︎太巻き：マグロ全部入り
⚫︎玉子
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿ビール：小瓶
・ZAO：特別純米、秋あがり、白石
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、岐阜
・雨後の月：純米大吟醸、呉
・義侠：純米原酒、東条特A山田錦、愛西
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、富津

最初は恵比寿の小瓶でスタート

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カツオ、小柱、明石の鮃とその縁側

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北海道のボタン海老

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宮城の銘酒

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カマスジを捌いているところ

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噴火湾の鰤シャブ。薬味は本山葵とまさかのXO醬

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岐阜の銘酒、すが弥version

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$すが弥 - ミッキーマウスに見えてきた\(//∇//)\$

ミッキーマウスに見えてきた\(//∇//)\

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鮟肝の煮付け。たまり醤油の濃くがたまらん！

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唐津の名残りの赤ウニ

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ひねものの唐墨

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$すが弥 - やはりミッキーマウス\(//∇//)\$

やはりミッキーマウス\(//∇//)\

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バチコ

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金目鯛の炙りご飯。下には馬糞ウニと縮緬雑魚とシャリが

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混ぜ混ぜしたところで。ちょっとだけ垂らしたオリーブオイル【03】の青い香りがよくあいます

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今夜の踊り子さん

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$すが弥 - 踊り子さんに触れないで下さい\(//∇//)\$

踊り子さんに触れないで下さい\(//∇//)\

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呉の銘酒

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中トロ。背鰭下の別れ身

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赤身。間に丸山の混とびの海苔を挟みます

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高知の天然縞鯵

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大トロの漬け

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イクラ。筋子から手でバラして十日寝かせて脱水。提供する日に軽く漬けて塩味を浸透させます

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岐阜の銘酒

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馬糞ウニ。今日は北方四島産。本社は札幌ですが、根室で加工して消費地に

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カマスジの炙り大トロ

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小肌

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宇部の養殖車海老。天然と変わり無し

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千葉の銘酒

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お味噌汁

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マグロ太巻き全部入り

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玉子

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すが弥の弥の字入りの湯呑み

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2023/10/22 更新

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26回目

2023/08 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の大志

土曜日の夕方です。

東麻布です。

今夜はお鮨と和食を中心にご一緒している食べ友男子とふたりで、こちらの”すが弥”さんにお伺いしました。

前回の六月からおよそ二か月ぶり。
大好物の鮟肝は季節外れと承知しておりますが、それでも例年、八月に予約を入れる理由が、三つ。

ひとつ、房総の黒鮑！
ふたつ、赤ウニ、馬糞、ムラサキの食べ比べ！
みっつ、新イクラ！

この三食材は夏の海の至宝の中の至宝。
並みのそれは巷に溢れておりますが、ピンピンのピンのモノホンの至宝がいただけるお店は、やはり限られます。

期待通り、その三至宝も眼前に勢揃い。
糖尿のことなぞ忘れて、日本酒も八種類ほど痛飲。

懐はいたみますが、やはり明らかにモノが違うので、悲しいかな、納得せざるを得ません。

あっ、誤解無く。
ネタだけでは有りません。酸味の強いシャリとの完璧な一体感。江戸前の定石にこだわらない組み合わせの妙味など、それらが何とも言えずラッコの我儘な口にジャストミート。

さてさてそれでは本題。
いただいた内容は以下の通りです。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

＜まとめ＞
房総の黒鮑の色艶と大きさに先ずはビックリポン。600g程度なんだそうです。一体全体、何年間、海女さんにも見つからずに過ごしてきたんやろ。

赤ウニは天草と唐津の二種類。
なかでも唐津は今季のナンバーワンでした。生クリームで溶いた卵黄のような香り。ツマミで天草産と食べ比べましたが、恥ずかしながら、言葉を失い、しばし朦朧とするラッコ。
ムラサキはダイセンの大間。馬糞は札幌のカネシン水産が全道から集めた逸品。
この二種類は麻布台ヒルズ仕立てでいただきます。丸山の混とびの香りとの相性も抜群。

そして垂涎の新イクラ。
この季節だけの宝石。
痛風なんて怖くないモン。糖尿だって薬で抑えればいいモン、なんちゃって、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

＜コース内容＞
⚫︎つまみ五点盛り：
　・北寄貝
　・平貝
　・クエ
　・カツオ
　・真鯛：お腹
　・薬味：本山葵、山ワサビとオカカetc.
⚫︎蒸し黒鮑：房総、肝添え
　・薬味：ブルーチーズ、本山葵
　・600g
⚫︎オリーブオイルご飯：
　・桜海老
　・バフンウニ
　・ジャコ
　・数の子？
⚫︎赤ウニ：二種の食べ比べ
　・唐津
　・天草
⚫︎唐墨
⚫︎稚鮎と実山椒

＜握り他＞
鮪はやま幸さんのボストン。真冬の近海物に匹敵する脂の乗りでした。

⚫︎金目鯛：銚子
⚫︎背トロ：血合い岸
⚫︎天端
⚫︎北寄貝：長万部
⚫︎霜降り：漬け
⚫︎新子：天草
⚫︎大トロ：蛇腹横
⚫︎ウニ：馬糞、ムラサキ
⚫︎新イクラ
⚫︎鮪：太巻き
⚫︎玉子
⚫︎お味噌汁

＜お酒＞
・エビスビール：小瓶
・19：Grotta Azzurra, 出羽燦燦、長野
・富久長：純米吟醸、八反草、広島
・上川大雪：純米吟醸、吟風、北海道
・澤屋まつもと：守破離、山田錦、京都
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、山田錦、千葉
・義侠：純米吟醸、東条特A山田錦、愛知
・十四代：中取り純米吟醸、播州愛山、兵庫
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、岐阜
日本酒は四合くらい

ツマミの五点盛りです。上から平貝、北寄貝、真鯛のお腹、クエ、鰹です。薬味は本山葵と山わさびオカカ

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房総の黒鮑です。蒸してこのサイズ

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とても一口で頬張れませんでした。薬味はブルーチーズと本山葵、肝です。ブルーチーズの塩味と鮑が合う

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この薄い枇杷色はエロい

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黒鮑の肝です。これはお酒のお供です

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油そばにインスパイヤーされた桜海老とバフンウニのオリーブオイル和えご飯

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赤ウニの産地違い、食べ比べ。本山葵をトッピングした方が天草。下が唐津です

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唐津です。これは今シーズンのナンバーワン

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天草です。唐津よりはクリーミーさが控え目ですが、昆布の旨味に溢れておりました

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唐墨です。チビチビと齧りながらお酒をズズズズッ

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稚鮎と実山椒。お酒でチビチビとやりながらツマミを待ちます

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真冬の近海物と遜色のない脂

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上段左から中トロ、天端、背トロの血合い岸、霜降り、蛇腹横です

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銚子の金目鯛です

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背トロの血合い岸

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天端。最高の赤身です

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長万部の北寄貝

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霜降りの漬け

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天草のシンコ。一枚付けです

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大トロ。蛇腹の隣の部位です

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麻布台タワー用のウニです

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大間のムラサキウニ

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全道から集まるので具体的な産地は不明ですが、北海道産のバフンウニ

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紫と馬糞の二層構造。麻布台タワーの完成です

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鮪全部入りの太巻きの準備が始まります

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出ました！新イクラ

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鮪の太巻きを仕込んでいる合間の新イクラご飯

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太巻きの端っこ、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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玉子焼き

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お味噌汁

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最初はエビスの小瓶でスタート

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長野の銘酒

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千葉の銘酒

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広島の銘酒

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京都の銘酒

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愛知の銘酒

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岐阜の銘酒

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隠し酒にまで手を出してしまいました

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ラッコは顔がでっかいので隠します、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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2023/08/20 更新

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25回目

2023/06 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥60,000～￥79,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の弛まぬ挑戦

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

六本木ヒルズで映画を見てから東麻布までノテノテノテ。
六時十分前に到着したのがこちらの”すが弥”さん。

およそ二か月ぶりのお伺いとなります。

この夜はひとりではなく、珍しく二人。
自称、元峰不二子たまに裏紀香に変身するらしい、開店初期に一度お伺いしたキリという女史。

『随分と進化してるんだよぉ～』と無理やり口説いて今日のこの日となりました。

六時ちょうどに入店。
カウンターの端に座り、恵比寿の小瓶で喉を濡らします。

『お二人でお越しでしたので・・・』という女将の戦術に見事にはまり、ここ最近は三種類にとどめていた日本酒を六種類も痛飲。とうとう諭吉六人を超えてしまいましたが、まぁ純大吟の銘酒揃いなのでそれも想定内。

さてさてそれでは本題です。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお読みいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
この価格帯で今夜も二回転が満席。
それもむべなるかな。
やはり何かが違う。食べ比べて初めて感じるこの違い。

目指すはチョモランマ鮨の山頂。

『リストランテすが弥と申します』なんて、銘醸物のオリーブオイルを駆使した鰹のカルパッチョやウニしゃりパスタで、常に果敢な挑戦を重ねる菅谷氏。

シャリも新潟の新之助の古米と新米のハーフブレンドに変更。立ち止まることなく、前を向いて一歩一歩着実に登攀。

山頂はもうすぐその掌に・・・
いやいや、失礼。
山頂を極めればそこで進化は停止。
菅谷氏が立ち止まることを良しとするわけも無し。だってこの日はアテにブルーチーズまで登場。まさかその内『ビストロすが弥と呼んでください』なんてことになってしまうかも、アハッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

＜つまみ＞
⚫︎九絵：二週間熟成、13kg
⚫︎勘八
⚫︎本ミル
⚫︎小肌
⚫︎牡丹海老：銚子、
　・薬味：ブルーチーズ
　・海老味噌：50尾で仕込み
　・本山葵
⚫︎馬糞ウニ：シャリパスタ
　・カッペリーニ
　・太刀魚
　・オリーブオイル：シチリア、モレスカ種
⚫︎赤ウニ：大分、塩水
⚫︎唐墨：ひねもの
⚫︎鮟肝
⚫︎鰹：カルパッチョ
　・ルッコラ
　・オリーブオイル：シチリア、モレスカ種

＜握り＞
更にシャリが進化。
新潟は新之助の新米と古米のブレンド。一粒一粒がしっかりと主張しています。
ピンピンの鮪は竜飛岬沖の釣り。
多分、気のせいかと思いますが、やはり縄や網とは異なるかも、グフッヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

⚫︎鮃の縁側：明石、一週間熟成
⚫︎背トロ：背ビレ下の別れ身、竜飛、釣り
⚫︎泥障烏賊：内房
⚫︎赤身：竜飛、釣り
⚫︎縞鯵：皮炙り、高知
⚫︎霜降り：竜飛、釣り
⚫︎鳥貝：七尾、炙り
⚫︎カマスジ：竜飛、釣り、炙り
⚫︎鯵：酢締め
⚫︎車海老
⚫︎ウニ：ムラサキ、馬糞
⚫︎鮪太巻き：全部入り、沢庵
⚫︎玉子焼き

＜お酒＞
・エビスビール：小瓶
・義侠：純米、東条特A山田錦、愛知
・乾坤一：純米吟醸、宮城
・吾妻嶺こうのとり：純米大吟醸、雄町、無濾過、岩手
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、千葉
・三千盛：純米大吟醸、岐阜
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、岐阜

最初はお約束の恵比寿の小瓶

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最初のアテです。ゆっくりと日本酒に進みます

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クエだったかな。13Kgの大物。二週間の熟成を経ているので、まるで生ハムみたいな香りと食感

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この熟成感がタマラン

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勘八です

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この勘八の熟成感も半端ない

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本ミルです

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愛知の銘酒

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小肌です。薬味はネギと鰹節と山わさびのタタキ

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銚子に揚がったボタンエビ。底引き網に偶にかかったときのみの仕入れ

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太平洋岸の牡丹海老とは珍しい

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薬味のブルーチーズです

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なんか女子の指が延びてきました。バルタン聖人かよヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

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握りの準備が整います

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北海道の馬糞ウニのパスタ。底にはシャリが潜みます。トッピングは太刀魚の炙り

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宮城の銘酒

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カラスミのひねもの、大分の赤ウニの塩水、鮟肝

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この鮟肝がラッコの大好物

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大分産の赤ウニ。塩水なので水切りをしっかりしてご提供

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ひねものの唐墨は日本酒のお友達

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カツオのカルパッチョ仕立て

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シチリアのモレスカ種のオリーブオイル。新宿伊勢丹のオリーブオイル専門店にも置いてありました

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今宵の踊り子さん達は竜飛岬からやってきました。左上から背トロ、赤身、霜降り、カマスジです

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釣りはやはり違う、と思う

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明石の鮃の縁側

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背ビレ下の別れ身。別名、背トロ

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障泥烏賊。内房です

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赤身です。中に海苔を挟みます。これぞ鉄火握り

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千葉の銘酒

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高知の天然シマアジ。皮を残して炙るお店は珍しい

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この霜降りに悶絶

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七尾産の鳥貝。軽く炙って甘味を際立たせるのがすが弥流

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カマスジの炙り、ただただ悶絶

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鰺の酢〆です

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岐阜の銘酒

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車海老

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バフンウニとムラサキウニのタワマン

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岐阜の銘酒

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鮪全部入りの太巻き。今夜は端っこをゲット

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ダイエット中の女史から鮪太巻きのお裾分け

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2023/06/11 更新

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24回目

2023/04 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の真剣

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は二か月ぶりのこちら、″すが弥″さんにお伺いしました。

材木町からは奈可久さんがその真裏に、銀八からはメイさんが麻布十番に社稷を築かれるチョー激戦区。

基本価格の設定に、異論反論オブジェクションの喧しいこちらですが、なんのなんの今夜も満席の大盛況。厳しい大競争時代も、きっとこれまでの蓄積で悠々と泳ぎつづけられること、間違いなし。

だってこの夜も、二ヶ月前とは明らかに進化した仕立て。
確かに良いお値段ですが、素材のピンピンの力とそれをさらなる高みにマキシマイズされる技量と努力には、衷心より敬服いたします。

さてさてそれでは本題。

いただいた内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
たまたまですが、先週の土曜日からカウントすると、海宇、鮨しゅん輔、鮨まつうら、よねがみと数えて今夜で五軒目。
やはり鮨しゅん輔と鮨まつうら、すが弥の三軒は別格ですが、ひとつひとつの完成度はすが弥さんが首一つ抜けているかも。
と言っても価格帯が違いすぎるので、一概に比べても詮無いのですが、それにしても心地良い。
客あしらい、全体への目配り、卒のない会話、真摯で真剣な所作、それら嫌味のない全てが超一流の証かと思います。

＜つまみ＞
前回より多めのつまみ。
いずれも文句無しの仕上がりでした。
大好物の濃ゆい鮟肝の煮付けもまだまだご提供。こいつはお酒を呼び込みますね。
滅多に出ない牡丹海老もまた嬉し。頭の味噌を軽く炊いた薬味がもうね、パーフェクトな味わいでした。

●アイナメ：明石
●鰆
●小柱
●牡丹海老：頭味噌、酢橘
●鮟肝
●唐墨
●カッペリーニ：馬糞ウニ、炙り金目鯛、シャリ
●カルパッチョ：鰹、生野菜、桜海老、雑魚、海苔他

＜握り＞
シャリは雪若丸。
季節により、つや姫やななつぼしと使い分けされているようです。
炊き上がりは硬め。一粒一粒がしっかりと独立し、たまに他店で出会う粘り気の強いネットリ系のシャリとは一線を画します。
やま幸さんからのピンピンマグロは、大船渡の定置網と銚子の延縄の二種類。真冬よりは脂が抜けましたが、苦手な青魚を餌にした酸味は有りません。部位の異なる五貫をいただき、これも大満足。

●背トロ（分かれ身）：銚子、延縄
●鮃：明石
●天端（赤身）：銚子、延縄
●小肌
●大トロ：漬け、大船渡、定置網
●煮蛤：黄柚
●カマ筋：大船渡、定置網
●カマ筋：炙り、大船渡、定置網
●鰯：酢締め
●馬糞ウニ
●太巻き：マグロ全部入り、とびっこ、沢庵
●玉子
●お味噌汁：丸山の青糸、黒七味、蛤出汁

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・松の寿：辛口、純米、栃木
・天狗舞：山廃、純米、石川
・雪の茅舎：大吟醸、生酒原酒、第713番、秋田
お酒は三合くらい

最初は恵比寿の小瓶でスタート

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嬉しい。希少ラベル品（びくに真鯛が入っています）をわざわざ取っておいてくださいました。この気配りがお店の繁栄の全てかも

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明石のアイナメ。旬ですね。ネットリ感が半端無い。ピンピンに間違いありません

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$すが弥 - 奥は鰆。手前は小柱、、薬味は山わさびと鰹節他を混ぜ混ぜしたもの。こいつは万能調味料ですね、アハッ\(//∇//)\$

奥は鰆。手前は小柱、、薬味は山わさびと鰹節他を混ぜ混ぜしたもの。こいつは万能調味料ですね、アハッ\(//∇//)\

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小柱はラッコの大好物

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この鰆の繊細な身質には朦朧としてしまいました

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牡丹海老です。こちらでお使いになるのは珍しい

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たまたま極上の牡丹海老、五十尾が手に入ったとのこと。その頭の味噌を軽く火を通して調味した右手の薬味がヤバい。海老の臭みが全くなく、これだけでお酒が一合、蒸発してしまいました

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栃木の銘酒

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まだまだ鮟肝はそろいます。この濃ゆい味付けがラッコの舌と胃と脳幹にドストライク

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唐墨をチビチビと齧りながら握りを待つラッコ

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新潟の銘酒です。懐かしの酒蔵ですが、歴史に裏打ちされた実力を思い知りました

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$すが弥 - カッペリーニの馬糞ウニパスタに金目鯛の炙りがトッピング。底にはシャリも僅かですが敷いてありました。なので、ギリ、和食\(//∇//)\$

カッペリーニの馬糞ウニパスタに金目鯛の炙りがトッピング。底にはシャリも僅かですが敷いてありました。なので、ギリ、和食\(//∇//)\

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混ぜ混ぜしていただきます。炙りキンメの香ばしさと馬糞ウニのコク、シャリの酸味と海苔の潮の香りをクセの無いオリーブオイルがまとめます

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雪の茅舎、、秋田の銘酒。まさかのシリアルナンバー付き

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カツオのカルパッチョ

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全体の流れに変化をつける一皿。青臭く無いオリーブオイルを厳選。お鮨屋さんの野菜不足に極めつけの一手でした

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上段左二つが銚子の延縄。他が大船渡の定置網です

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今夜の踊り子さん達も美しい

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背トロです。筋の強い分かれ身部位ですが、その筋を全く感じさせません

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明石の鮃です。文句無し。これが鮃の香り

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赤身の天端部位です。この濃ゆい香りが本鮪の真骨頂

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小肌です

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大トロの漬け。卵白にビネガーを加えたような舌触りと香りでした

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煮蛤。このツメも好き。この煮出汁が〆のお味噌汁のベース

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10日寝かせのカマ。朦朧とする美味さでした

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カマの炙り。これもうんまい

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鰯です。酢で小骨まで溶けました

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馬糞ウニのタワマン仕立て

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蛤出汁のお味噌汁。香り付けに黒七味を添加。青いのは四万十川の青糸

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マグロ全部入りの太巻き。端っこはお若い方達にご提供

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フワフワ仕立ての玉子

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2023/04/22 更新

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23回目

2023/02 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の至誠

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今夜は凡そ二ヶ月ぶりのこちら、″すが弥″さんにお伺いしました。

開店当初の諭吉四人でお釣りから、今は六人でお釣りという状況。それにもかかわらず新規の予約はおまかせのキャンセル枠のみ。赤本の掲載基準などどこ吹く風。

諭吉五人越えで脚が遠のかれた方もいらっしゃるかと思いますが、それでも埋まり続ける席の予約。

ラッコを含め、こちらのシャリや濃い目の味付けが口に合うのでしょう、今宵も八席全てで素敵な笑顔が広がります。

さてさてそれでは本題。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
今夜は久しぶりに車海老が登場。穴子は菅谷氏のお眼鏡にかなわず舞台の裏に・・・
うーん、穴子が食べたい、でもこればっかりは仕方ありません。

その代わりという訳では有りませんが、やはり菅谷氏の本領はマグロ。やま幸さんのピンキリの中からピンの中のピンが揃います。

今夜のマグロはいずれも気仙沼。
霜降りと蛇腹こそ延縄ですが、血合い岸と天端は大目。

先月の″島津”さんのレビューでも記載しましたが、”大目”とは免許制の流し網漁法。その網の目は15～18cm。小魚は資源保護のために捕獲の対象外。もともとは初夏のカジキなどの大物を狙った漁法のようです。

そのメリットは、延縄のように針を咥えて暴れないので身焼けリスクをミニマイズ。ただし漁獲量は極めて少なく滅多に出回りません。
その希少なピンピンマグロが揃うのは、やはり菅谷氏とやま幸さんの太い絆あってこそ。

しかしてその身は？
素直な還暦爺さんの感想ですが、若い娘さんのように青臭くなく、熟女のようにくどくない。その清廉な脂にただただ悶絶。

不埒な表現ですいません。勝手な妄想です。
なにとぞご容赦をヾ(≧▽≦)ﾉ

＜つまみ＞
●九絵：勝浦、一週間
●盛り合わせ：
　・小柱：北海道
　・鰆
　・鰯：北海道
　・薬味：山わさび
●めじ鮪：佐渡、50kg
●虎河豚白子：炙りご飯。卵黄ウニソース
●鮟肝
●唐墨

＜握り＞
●鮃：明石
●背トロ：血合い岸、気仙沼、大目
●赤身：天端、気仙沼、大目
●小柱：北海道
●霜降り：気仙沼、延縄
●鰯：大羽サイズ、北海道
●煮蛤
●蛇腹：気仙沼、延縄
●車海老
●煮牡蠣：広田湾
●ムラサキウニ：カネシン水産
●太巻き：マグロ尽くし、とびっこ、沢庵
●お味噌椀：あおさ
●玉子

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・三千櫻：純米大吟醸、きたしずく45、北海道
・十九：degel、長野
・鳳凰美田：髭判、純米大吟醸、栃木
・磯自慢：純米大吟醸、一滴入魂、焼津

最初はエビスの小瓶でスタート

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勝浦のクエです。ネットリ感が秀逸

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盛り合わせ、三種です

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北海道の鰯。大羽サイズです。酢の酸度で小骨が溶けています

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鰆と薬味の山ワサビ和え（ネギ、鰹節、生姜）

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佐渡の50kgのメジ。肥満児ですね

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北海道のきたしづくです

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トラフグの白子の炙り

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卵黄ウニソースと混ぜ混ぜ、即、悶絶

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大目は漁法です

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長野の銘酒です。雪どけを意味する春の酒

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鮟肝です。このたまり醤油を強火で炊き上げた濃い味がタマラン

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カラスミです

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今夜のマグロ、四人娘です。上段左から血合い岸、赤身の天端、霜降り、蛇腹です

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左が血合い岸。右が赤身の天端です

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栃木の銘酒です

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明石の寒鮃です

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背トロの血合い岸です。大目です

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大目の天端です。間に混とびの海苔を挟みます

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北海道の小柱です。富津のお母様が剥きました

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気仙沼の延縄の霜降り

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酢の強酸で小骨の溶けた鰯

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焼津の銘酒

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煮蛤

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気仙沼の延縄の蛇腹

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久しぶりの車海老

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広田湾の煮牡蠣

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北海道のムラサキウニ

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アオサのお味噌汁

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マグロ全部入りとトビッコ、沢庵の太巻き

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玉子です

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2023/02/05 更新

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22回目

2022/12 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の神髄

大晦日の前日です。

東麻布です。

昨年と同様、一年の外食締めくくりはこちらの”すが弥”さん。およそ二か月ぶりの訪問となります。

前回はまだお目当ての鮟肝が痩せていて揃わず、名残りの黒鮑に慰められた十月。今月は師走だもん、必ずご用意されている筈だよなぁ、なんて若い娘さんのように胸ときめかせながら、五時に暖簾をくぐります。

今日は怒涛の四回転とのこと。
新井氏の『働け・・・』との厳しい指導を胸に迎えた五年目の冬。価格帯も跳ね上がりましたが、人気のほども右肩上がり。

さてさてそれでは本題です。
いただいたものは以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
納得の鮟肝。このたまり醤油の濃ゆい味付けがことのほか口に合う。根室の馬糞ウニタワーも、高騰する浜値なんてどこ吹く風の超高層スタイル。
極めつけは、大間に揚がった延縄鮪の六貫攻め。シャリの酸味も塩味も硬さもラッコのドストライク。2023年も変わらずよろしくお願いいたします。

＜つまみ＞
●九絵：一週間熟成
●鰆：山わさび、ネギ、生姜
●帆立：天然、海苔、山葵
●鰤ご飯：卵黄ウニソース
●鮟肝
●唐墨

＜握り＞
鮪は全て大間の延縄、二週間寝かせです。

●勘八：昆布〆、二週間
●中トロ：背ナカ、背鰭下
●赤身：天端、海苔挟み
●小柱：軍艦
●中トロ：背ナカ、血合い岸
●真鱈白子：出汁漬け、炙り
●中トロ：腹ナカ、漬け
●大トロ：砂摺り
●煮蛤
●大トロ：カマスジ、炙り
●鰯：酢締め、六日寝かせ
●馬糞ウニ：根室
●太巻き：鮪全部入り
●玉子
●お碗

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿ビール：小瓶
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、すが弥ラベル、岐阜
・黄金澤：山廃純米、初搾り生原酒、宮城
・結：純米大吟醸、結城

最初はエビスの小瓶でスタート

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一週間ほど熟成させたクエ。その旨味に朦朧とします

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鰆です。薬味の山ワサビと生姜とネギのタタキが抜群にウンマイ

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天然ホタテの炙り

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帆立を箸で割ったところ

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炙った鰤。その下にはウニ卵黄ソースとシャリ。

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醴泉のすが弥ラベル。年間100本の限定酒です

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トラフグに白子ヴァージョンもノドグロヴァージョンもあるけど、鰤が一番合うかも。全てを混ぜ混ぜしていただきます。

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この鮟肝がラッコの大好物

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カラスミ

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宮城の銘酒。山廃だけど比較的柔らかな味でした

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今夜の踊り子さん

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砂摺り部位です

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昆布〆のカンパチ。二週間寝かせ

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背びれ下の筋肉部位。柵は背ナカです。肌理細やかな脂に朦朧

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茨城の銘酒

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赤身。天端です。間に海苔を挟みます

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小柱の軍艦

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背ナカの中トロ。血合い岸です

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真鱈の白子の出汁漬けを炙りました

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中トロ。腹ナカの漬けです

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大トロの砂摺り

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煮蛤

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カマスジの大トロ

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酢〆した鰯。小骨が溶けています

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根室の馬糞ウニの高層マンション仕立て

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山葵をトッピングしてツマミでもいただきます

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アラ出汁の味噌椀

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玉子

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鮪部位全部入りの太巻き

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2022/12/30 更新

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21回目

2022/10 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の社稷

木曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

コロナ嬢との甘い生活も昨夜限り。
神奈川県のレギュレーションに従い、自宅に軟禁状態だったラッコ。コロナ嬢の愛の魔力のせいで体重が5キロも減ったやないかい、アハッ\(//∇//)\

そうか！
禁酒、自炊の日々がこんなにも健康に宜しいなんて、今更ながら痛感したのねん。

でもカワユイ胃には申し訳ない。
『ううっ、お鮨が食べたいの・・・』なんて真珠のような涙を見せられると、しゃあない、病み上がりやけど予定通り東麻布まで出かけるとすっか。

さてさて凡そ二ヶ月ぶりのこちら、すが弥さん。
今夜は一回転の七時スタート。

秋も迎えたし、どんな肴が出てくるのかな？

さてさてそれでは本題です。

いただいたものは以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
穴子が無い。車海老が無い。ハシリの鮟肝も無い。
一見、無い無い尽くしのように思えますが、菅谷氏の強いシャリを受け止めるピンピンが揃わないのだから仕方無し。
菅谷氏のお眼鏡に叶うのはチョモランマのごとき高き壁。
でもそれは、裏を返せば半端な妥協を良しとせず、自身の握りに接する礼儀のようなもの。
その見返りと言っては僭越ですが、アラと鰆の熟女っぷり。恐らく大原の名残の黒鮑。関東では珍しいフエダイ娘のズブズブ肌に溺れては、挙げ句の果てに大間の延縄五貫漬けに悶絶。
還暦ラッコ、コロナとの離婚明けをものともせず、瞬間昇天。
ああっ、次回が楽しみっす\(//∇//)\

＜つまみ＞
″鮨すが弥″から“すが弥“に屋号を変えられた際、師匠筋の新井氏から『鮨って外すんだから、その内パスタでも出すんじゃ無いの』なんて軽くイジられていた菅谷氏。
『・・・といったわけでも無いのですが、パスタとオリーブオイル、使っちゃいました』と爽やかな笑顔で呟きます。
シャリも潜んでいるしピンピンのムラサキなので、下手なイタリアンも尻尾を巻いちゃいそうでした。

●アラ
●鰆
●黒鮑：肝、千葉
●ムラサキウニ冷製カッペリーニ
●稚鮎：山椒煮
●唐墨

＜握り＞
マグロはすべて大間の延縄です。

●フエダイ：一週間寝かせ
●背トロ
●赤身：コントビ挟み
●小柱：釧路
●中トロ：漬け
●小肌
●縞鯵：皮炙り、天然高知
●大トロ：蛇腹
●大トロ：カマスジ
●鰯：酢〆
●新イクラとムラサキウニ
●太巻き：マグロ全部入り
●玉子
●お碗：青海苔

＜お酒＞
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、東条特A山田錦28%、岐阜
・極幻：純米大吟醸、MINAKI、山形
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、千葉

大トロの蛇腹です

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新イクラが見えました

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マグロ全部入りの太巻きです

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房総の黒鮑です。ゆがいた栗の香りがしました

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手前が大トロに近い部位のカマスジ

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アラです。一週間寝かせて熟女の味。塩と酢橘と煮切りが万全のハーモニーを奏でます

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日本酒は三種類縛り。一本目は東条山田錦28%のすが弥醴泉

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一週間寝かせの鰆。薬味は山ワサビ。エロいまでの身質に悶絶するラッコ

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黒鮑の肝

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角度を変えて

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鶴岡の奥羽自慢です。

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喉黒の炙り。下に潜むのは・・・

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ムラサキウニとオリーブオイルで和えた冷製カッペリーニです。

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奥が唐墨。手前が稚鮎の山椒煮です。

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旬の頃の稚鮎を実山椒と煮付けした名残りのお酒のアテ

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唐墨です。このくらいのひねものが好き

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今夜の踊り子さんです

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千葉の銘酒

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関東では珍しいフエダイです

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背トロ

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赤身。中に混ぜトビを挟みます。香りが抜群でした

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$すが弥 - 釧路の小柱。早く大星にな〜れ\(//∇//)\$

釧路の小柱。早く大星にな〜れ\(//∇//)\

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腹カミの中トロの漬け

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小肌です

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高知の天然縞鯵。皮目を炙ります

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カマスジの炙りです

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酢〆した鰯。小骨も溶けています

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新イクラとムラサキウニです

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青海苔のお碗

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シットリしたカステラ風味の玉子

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2022/10/07 更新

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20回目

2022/08 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.0
- | 酒・ドリンク5.0 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の厚情

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

気温も低めなので、広尾から反時計回りに麻布十番までノテノテとブラ散歩。

天現寺橋を左折し明治通りに突入。古川橋で更に左に折れ麻布通りを北上。その道すがら幕末の通詞、ヒュースケンの葬られているお寺を偶然にも発見。歴史好きなラッコはその墓前で手を合わせます（写真の最後に掲載しておりますので、興味のある方はどうぞご覧ください）

その後スタバで時間調整し、六時ちょいと前にお店の前に到着。タイミング良く若い男子が扉を開け、手指をシュコシュコして中にご案内。

『つい先日、お会いしましたね、アハッ』なんて言葉を交わしながら、菅谷氏の正面に座ります。ほどなくして他の七名の方々もご到着。ご夫婦らしき二組とお一人様男子が二名、ご常連の旦那様を残してひとりでいらした若奥様、といった面々です。

『今年の夏は休み無しなんですぅ』と眉を下げる菅谷氏。
お盆の間も暖簾を掲げていらっしゃるんですね。

『幸いお越しいただけるお客様がいらっしゃるので、有難い限りです』
『ガッツリ、儲けますね、ヘヘッ』と、スケベオヤジのラッコ。

『”あらい”の看板を背負っているので、働かないと親方に叱られてしまいますから・・・』と控え目に呟きます。
師匠を超える価格設定をよほど気にされているのかな？

恵比寿の小瓶で唇を濡らしながら『来週お伺いするので「菅谷さん、休みなしで働いてますよ」と新井さんにお伝えしておきますね』と、安請け合いが得意なラッコ。

ひととおり、場が和んだところで、アラのツマミからスタート。

さてさてそれでは本題です。

詳細は写真欄に記載しますが、今夜は菅谷氏のご厚情が全て。

どこからその情報を仕入れられたのか？
亡き家内への深い思いやりをいただき、思わず目頭の熱くなるラッコ。久しぶりに女将さんの笑顔にも触れ、なんとも心温まる一夜となりました。

ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。
そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
垂涎の鮟肝は終了。鰻も痩せているので小丼は喉黒のまま。今夜のネタはちょいと寂しいなぁ～、と肩を下ろしていると、アイヤァ、なんと早くも熟柿色に煌めくエロい粒々が登場。

『えっ、まさかの新イクラっすか？』と唖然呆然のラッコ。

『今日からひとケース、豊洲に入りました。まだ小ぶりですけど』と控え目に呟く菅谷氏。

『テニスラケットですね？』といじります。
『まだ小粒なのでバドミントンラケットで、アハッ』とノリノリの菅谷氏。
聞けば筋子から自ら解されたとのこと。

魚の仕込みからお米の水加減まで、すべてをひとりで差配される菅谷氏。ご自身の眼の行き届く範囲の丁寧な仕事が持ち味です。それで二回転をこなすわけですから、いつ休んでいらっしゃるんやろう？

＜つまみ＞
●アラ：振り酢橘、本山葵、四日寝かせ
●鰆：山わさび、オカカ
●蒸し鮑：黒鮑、房州、味噌漬け肝
●喉黒ご飯：馬糞ウニ、黄身ソース
●唐墨
●稚鮎と実山椒

＜握り＞
●クエ：三重、8kg、十日寝かせ
●背トロ：血合い岸、生ボストン
●赤身：天端寄り、生ボストン
●縞鯵：天然、高知、皮目炙り
●腹カミ：中トロ、生ボストン
●煮蛤：鹿島灘
●カマ：炙り
●小肌
●新イクラ：小丼
●車海老：宇部
●ウニ：シモキタの馬糞ウニ、ムラサキウニ
●太巻き：鮪全部入り
●玉子

●ご厚情：小丼
亡き家内への影膳です。
命日が翌日と知り、ドッキリで全部入りのちらしの小丼をご用意されました。
ネタに包丁を入れながら、なんだか小さな細切れを丁寧にストックされているなぁ、と眼を細めておりました。
ひととおり全てが提供され、他の方が追加で所望された干瓢を巻き終えると、おもむろに小鉢を取り出します。
更にウニを二種、カマを炙ってミニ胡瓜を丁寧に刻む菅谷氏。
何やろう？
まかないにしては一個だけやし・・・
頃合いを見計り、後ろから木製の匙を差し出す女将。
『どうぞぉ～』
『えっ、ええっ？』
『親方が説明しますので・・・』

『どうぞ、奥様に』と菅谷氏。
『アイヤァ～』と突如、目頭が沸騰。
『xxxさんがいただかれたもの、全てが入っております』
『グッフゥ』と胸で十字を切り、手を合わせていただくラッコ。

ああっ、アカン。
こんなことされた日には更に通い続けてまうやないかい、ウウッ。

＜お酒＞
血糖値対策で日本酒はちょっとづつ三種類をお任せでいただきます。
最初はお約束の”すが弥”ブランドの醴泉。二杯目はシュワシュワの夏純吟で口中を洗い、とどめは鳳凰美田の限定酒。夢ささらを25％まで磨いた小売諭吉三枚の逸品。『これは原価でしかお出しできません』と呟く菅谷氏でした。

・瓶ビール：恵比寿、小瓶
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、岐阜
・文佳人：夏純吟、高知
・鳳凰美田日光：水分神-MIKUMARI-、純米大吟醸、栃木

最初はエビスの小瓶でスタート

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アラです。振り酢橘と山葵でいただきます

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鰆のお腹部位。薬味の山わさびオカカとの相性が抜群

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房州の黒鮑。肝は味噌漬けです。酒に抜群に合う

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醴泉の純大吟。お約束のスタータです

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ノドグロの炙りとバフンウニと黄身ソース

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全てを混ぜ混ぜします。ノドグロの脂が酢の強いシャリに絡んで至福の味わいでした

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いつもならここで鮟肝が提供されますが、真夏なのでお休み。奥が唐墨。手前が稚鮎のチャンクと山椒の煮物です

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高知の銘酒の夏versionです

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やばい奴が出てきました。これから封を切ります

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水分神と書いてミクマリと読むようです

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すんごいケースに入っておりました。日光杉の枡が三種類、添えられておりました

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中サイズの枡を選びます。杉の香りが素敵でした

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今夜の踊り子さん達。奥の左から時計回りに、腹カミの中トロ、赤身、背トロ、カマです

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握りに入るとお茶を所望

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クエです。三重の8kg。つまみでいただいたアラとは全く異なる食感に朦朧としてしまいました

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生で空輸されたボストンの背トロ。真冬の鮪そのものの味でした

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やはりボストンの赤身。中に挟んだ青混ぜの海苔の香りと赤身の鉄臭さが劇的に合う！

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高知の天然シマアジです。皮目は炙りました

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腹カミの中トロです。ボストンです

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鹿島灘の煮蛤。裏の内臓のモフモフもそのまま煮込みます。そのモフモフの食感が好き

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煮蛤のドアップ

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カマは炙って提供します。細かな脂スジが走っていますからね

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はしりの新イクラ。痛風の大敵ですが、この時期だけの珠玉の粒々です

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小肌です。ちょうどよい塩梅

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宇部の車海老

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シモキタ半島のバフンウニにムラサキウニがトッピング

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鮪全部入りの太巻きです

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しっとりしたカステラ風の仕立ての玉子焼き

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亡き家内への影膳です。菅谷氏のご厚情に感謝します。不覚にも目頭が熱くなりました

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四万十の海苔のお味噌汁

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ヒュースケンのお墓です

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墓碑を見るとアムステルダム産まれ。アメリカ公使の通訳で29歳の生涯でした

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古刹です

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港区の指定文化財でした

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2022/08/07 更新

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19回目

2022/07 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の覚悟

日曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

今年もまたつらい季節を迎えることになりました。

暑さ？
いいえ、違います。

八年前の夏、愛妻が帰天しました。
6月に京大に異動された主治医に挨拶したいと、か細くなった足元を杖で補いながら、一種間の京都、奈良、大阪の旅。

その二週間後、東海大学病院に入院し、8月7日に天に召されました。

個室で過ごしたその三十数日。
会社帰りに立ち寄り、お弁当を食べながら夜遅くまで過ごした平日。土日は泊まり込んで、ただただなんのことはない会話を重ねた日々。

不謹慎な言い方ですが、父と母が鬼籍に入ったとしても、こんなに重く深い哀しみに暮れることは無いでしょう。

ひとりで自宅に居ても涙が頬を伝うばかりなので、この二週間ほどは意識的に外食の予定をいれたなか、今夜は馴染みの“すが弥“さんにお伺いしました。

ああっ、こちらに連れて来たかったなぁ。
一緒に鮟肝の煮付けや濃ゆい酢飯を堪能したかったなぁ。

黙って頷きながら、小さく『美味しいね』と呟く愛する人との時間は、何ものにも変えられない最高の贅沢。

いけません。
そんなことを考え始めると、カウンターで涙を流してしまいそう。

『わっ、ワサビが効きましたぁ〜』なんて野暮な言い訳は通じません。

だって哀しい眼をしているに違いないはずなので。

それでは本題です。

今夜のおまかせ内容は以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
お店の暖簾から『鮨』の文字を外された菅谷氏。基本のお値段も、都内でも数少ない五枚の大台に。
師匠の新井氏からは『あり得ねえっすよ』と叱咤されながらも、そこは一国一城の主。四年目の覚悟が垣間見えました。

＜つまみ＞
名残の鮟肝は安定の濃ゆい味。これを日本酒でいただかないなんて、犯罪です。
加えて黒鮑。
25個をまとめてボイル。肝の使えない部位から素敵な汗が染み出します。その後、蒸して冷やすとそのお出汁がゼラチンに変化。提供する直前に蒸して人肌で目の前に。
味付けは僅かな塩のみ。ブツ切りで供されるので齧りつく愉悦にあふれます。
肝は味噌漬け。これも爆発的に酒に合う。

●クエ：三重、10日寝かせ、酢橘
●鰆：3日寝かせ、山わさび
●鰹：山わさび
●黒鮑
●喉黒ご飯：卵黄、馬糞ウニ
●鮟肝
●唐墨
●稚鮎：実山椒

＜握り＞
マグロはやま幸さんのボストンの生。140kg。
この時期、身焼けリスクの高い痩せた近海延縄よりはるかにウンマイ。

●伊佐木：4日目
●背トロ
●赤身：漬け、天端
●星鰈：宮城、3.3kg
●腹カミ：中トロ、漬け
●蛇腹：大トロ
●煮蛤：鹿島
●車海老：宇部
●ウニ軍艦：馬糞ウニ、ムラサキウニ
●トロたく：太巻き
●お味噌汁：青海苔
●玉子

＜お酒＞
・エビス：小瓶
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、岐阜
・天美：純米大吟醸、山口
・鳳凰美田：純米吟醸、栃木

最初はエビスをゴキュゴキュゴキュ！

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クエです。10日寝かせなのに、弾力が半端無い。三重で水揚げされた太平洋産。外洋なので肉質が強い

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鰹と鰆。山ワサビとオカカ、白ネギの薬味でいただきます。この薬味だけでお酒が呑める

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立派な黒鮑です

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三個を八人でいただきます

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鮑は薄切りより絶対にブツ切り

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鮑です。暑さが判るように撮影角度を変えました。

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岐阜の銘酒。すが弥vergion

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喉黒ご飯です。底には馬糞ウニと卵黄ソースが潜みます

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喉黒ご飯は混ぜ混ぜしていただきます

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下関の銘酒です

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握りの準備が揃うまでのつまみ三点セット

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この濃ゆい味付けのあん肝が大好き

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稚鮎の山椒煮のチャンク

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唐墨です。小さく齧りながら日本酒に合わせます

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豚のバラ肉では有りません。ボストンのクロマグロの砂擦り（蛇腹）です。いつも『その鞭でしばいて欲しい』とドMが呟くので、鞭に見立て皆さんの前におひろめです

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蛇腹をどの方向から切り付けようかな？

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栃木の銘酒です

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今夜の踊り子さん達です。生のまま東海岸のボストンから空輸されました。

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夏の魚のだいひ、伊佐木です

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ボストンの踊り子さんの背トロ

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ボストンの踊り子さんの天端。中に青混ぜの海苔を挟みます。この握りが大好き

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宮城の星鰈。眞子鰈にプロテインを飲ませたかのような筋肉質にビックリポン

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ボストンの踊り子さんの腹カミの中トロ

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鹿島灘の煮蛤。内臓のモフモフを敢えて生かした仕立て

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ボストンの踊り子さんの蛇腹。お腹が砂に擦れる部位。マグロなので実際は擦りませんけどね。7月のマグロとは思えません。脂が強めなので身に塩をあてました。スジも舌の上で溶けました

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宇部の車海老。旨味が濃かった

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ウニのタワマンの準備です

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$すが弥 - 土台は利尻礼文の馬糞ウニ。屋上はムラサキウニです。隣の女子が一口でトライしますが、慌てて断念しました\(//∇//)\$

土台は利尻礼文の馬糞ウニ。屋上はムラサキウニです。隣の女子が一口でトライしますが、慌てて断念しました\(//∇//)\

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マグロ全部入りの太巻きの具材です、、マグロの北アルプスです

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青海苔のお味噌汁

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マグロ部位全部入りの太巻きです。菅谷氏が視線で『いきますか？』と聞いて来ますが、端っこはお若い方に譲りました

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カステラ仕立ての玉子

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2022/07/24 更新

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18回目

2022/07 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

掟破りの同日師弟食べ比べ：夜の部なのだ、の巻

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。
鮨、の冠を外した″すが弥″さんにお伺いしました。

この日のランチが、その菅谷氏が三年の薫陶を受けた“鮨あらい″さん。

新井親方に『鮨って名前を取っちゃったので、パスタでも出てくるかもしれやせんぜ、アハッ』と、いじりネタをいただき、六時のカウンターに座ります。

事前に『血糖値が上がったので、お酒は控え目にします』とお伝えし、いつもの女将の手書きお酒メニューは遠慮しておりました。

だって、それを受け取ると、無限ループに突入しちゃいますもんね、アハッ\(//∇//)\

『お勧めしちゃいけないかなぁ、とは思いますが、次はいかがなさいますか？』と、恵比寿の小瓶を舐めるラッコに菅谷氏が控え目に問うてきます。

『ううっ、いっ、一合で終わらせます』
『それでは三種類を少しづつお出ししましょう』
『はい。お任せします』

最初に出てきたのが、醴泉の純大吟のすが弥ラベル。

そう言えば前回『名前をつけていただきました』と仰っておりましたね。

大好きな鮟肝と房州の蒸し黒鮑で垂涎の三種をいただき、握りからは初めての温かいお茶を所望。

鶴八の先先代の親方が仰っておりました。

『シャリには温かいお茶。コイツに勝るものはありやせん』

御意。

新たな水平線に覚醒したラッコ。
今後は飲み過ぎ、炭水化物取り過ぎに気をつけます。

だって診療所のドS女医に怒られちゃうもんね、アハッ。

さてさていただいたものは以下の通り。
ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお楽しみ下さい。

そしてご馳走さまでした。

＜まとめ＞
店名も改め、新たな地平に挑む菅谷氏。
確かにお値段は強気の設定に跳ね上がりましたが、それは親方の度量と努力次第。
だって一国一城の主ですもの。全てが自己責任。
新井氏からの言伝に『有難いです。そんなお小言を仰っていただける方は他に居ないので』とはにかむ菅谷氏。
徐に後半、ななつぼしを炊き上げるお釜の水を調節しながら、『私もこんなに働いております、とお伝え下さい』と呟きます。
承知しました。写真も撮りましたし、来月お伺いする新井氏にお見せしますね。

＜つまみ＞
今夜はなんと言っても黒鮑。
デッカくて切り分けられた薄桃色にかぶりつきます。
アアッ、赤ちゃんのお尻みたい。噛んだことないけど、アハッ\(//∇//)\

●アラ：酢橘
●鰹：山ワサビ
●蒸し鮑と肝：房州黒鮑
●喉黒：針海苔ご飯、ウニと卵黄ソース
●鮟肝
●唐墨

＜握り＞
お米は北海道のななつ星。酢は他店の1.5倍。この濃さが口に合う。

●クエ：十日熟成
●背トロ：血合い岸
●赤身：海苔挟み
●スズキ：昆布〆
●中トロ：腹カミ
●煮蛤
●砂擦り：一週間熟成
●小肌
●車海老：宇部
●ムラサキウニ：八戸
●太巻き：鮪全部入り
●お味噌汁：丸山の青糸（四万十海苔）
●玉子

＜お酒＞
・恵比寿：小瓶
・醴泉：純米大吟醸、すが弥ラベル、岐阜
・東魁盛：純米吟醸、千葉
・白岳仙：純米吟醸、夏虫、福井

砂擦りです。一週間寝かせた熟成香が鼻腔をくすぐります

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赤身です。中に海苔を挟みます。磯の香りと鉄分が合う

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その三分の一をいただきます

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下北半島のムラサキウニ。この高層建築は他店の三貫分

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鮟肝です。この濃ゆい味付けが口に合う

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アラが並びます

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アラの二枚付け。昆布や木の芽はやめ、酢橘一本に絞りました、とのこと

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鰹です。この山ワサビの薬味が口に合う

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房州の黒鮑何登場

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デカい。箸で持てない

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硬すぎず柔らかすぎず、プルンプルンの食感。20杯分を一緒に炊き上げ、鮑の汗だけで味付けします

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喉黒の炙りの混ぜご飯

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シャリは卵黄ウニソース。丸山の針海苔の香りと喉黒の脂が絶妙でした

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名残りの鮟肝。真冬に比べて脂は抜けましたが、ウンマイもんはウンマイ

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唐墨です。ポリポリと齧りながら、少ないお酒を舐めるように堪能しました

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今夜の踊り子さんです。境港だったかな。左上から血合い岸の背トロ、赤身、腹カミの中トロ、砂擦り。

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十日寝かせたクエ

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血合い岸の背トロです

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昆布〆のスズキ

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腹カミの中トロ

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煮蛤

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小肌

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宇部産の車海老

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マグロの北アルプスです。これから太巻きに。

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マグロの全部入りの北アルプス

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丸山の青糸のお味噌汁

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マグロの太巻き。巻けるかなぁ？

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中心部位をいただきます。沢庵の食感と塩味が嬉しい

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玉子です

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恵比寿の小瓶でスタート

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岐阜の銘酒

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千葉の銘酒

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福井の銘酒

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お米の水分量の調整中。全てをお一人で差配

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2022/07/03 更新

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17回目

2022/04 訪問

夜の点数：4.8
- ［料理・味5.0
- | サービス5.0
- | 雰囲気5.0
- | CP4.5
- | 酒・ドリンク4.5 ］
￥50,000～￥59,999

/ 1人

菅谷氏の熱意

土曜日の夜です。

東麻布です。

六本木から東京タワーを経て三田一丁目、麻布十番を時計回りに散策し、東麻布に到着。

四月に入り、恐らく魚や貝、それに加えお米も一新された筈。

プリンのキャラメルのような味わいの鮟肝煮はまだいただけるのかなぁ、トラフグ白子は終わりだよなぁ、マグロはどんなんなってんやろう、なんてワクワクドキドキ。尽きない興味に足取りも軽く辿り着いたのが、こちらの”鮨すが弥”さん。

六時ちょうどに扉が開き、検温と手指のシュコシュコを済ませ、菅谷氏の正面にご案内。

ラッコはこの一か月で四キロも肉厚になってしまいましたが、いつにも増してシュッとした立ち姿の菅谷氏。

エビスの小瓶で唇を湿らしながら世間話をしていると、ほどなく全員が揃い、今夜のコースがスタート。

ひとつひとつのコメントは写真欄に記載しておりますので、画像と一緒にお読みいただければ幸いです。

そしてご馳走様でした。

＜まとめ＞
海の端境期にあたる四月。難しい季節かとは思いますが、そこは手練れの菅谷氏。フラットになりがちなリズムに軽快な変化が加わり、お酒がもうね、進む進む、アハッ。とりわけ、プリンのキャラメルのような香りとネットリ食感の鮟肝。これに勝るものは有りません。

他にも建築基準法違反のウニタワー。
都知事もビックリ、三密状態の野付の小柱。
エペソスの女神のような赤イカの仕立て。
キラウエア噴火のような鮪太巻きの端っこ。

数多あるお鮨屋さんの中でも頭一つ抜け出た味わいに、いつものことながら感謝します。

＜つまみ＞
馬糞ウニとの混ぜご飯はトラフグから金目鯛に季節替わり。この皮目を炙った金目鯛と硬めのシャリをつなぐのがクリーミーなバフンウニ。
初夏になればウナギに変身ですね。

●ハタ：木の芽、塩と山葵、一週間熟成
●初鰹：山わさび
●金目鯛：馬糞ウニご飯
●唐墨
●鮟肝：余市

＜握り＞
お米が北海道のななつ星に。
一粒一粒の輪郭が際立つ硬めの米粒を、酸味の際立つ強い酢でコーティング。好みは分かれると思いますが、熟成させたネタや地味の濃ゆいネタと調和したこのシャリが、ことのほか口に合います。

●鰆：昆布〆
●中トロ：背ナカ、銚子
●小柱：野付
●赤身：銚子
●赤イカ：炙り、山ワサビ
●中トロ：腹カミ、下田
●小肌：塩締め、砂糖締め
●車海老
●牡蠣：煮上げて赤酢漬け、室津
●馬糞ウニ：根室加工の北方四島産
●マグロ：太巻き
●お味噌汁：生海苔
●卵焼き：カステラ仕立て

＜お酒＞
・エビス：小瓶
・御山杉：純米吟醸、生、三重
・ニ兎：純米吟醸、岡崎
・醴泉正宗：純米大吟醸、中汲み原酒、岐阜
・白岳仙：純米大吟醸、極走、福井
・義侠：純米、愛西
日本酒は四合くらい

最初はエビスの小瓶

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ハタです。木の芽を巻き込み、酢橘を絞ります。一週間の熟成を経ているのでねっとりした食感

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ハタのお腹部位です。塩と山葵でいただきます

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初鰹です。薬味は山ワサビベースの鰹節他

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この時点で早くも日本酒にシフト

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明らかに150mlは入っていそう

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皮目を炙った金目鯛

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バフンウニと混とびの海苔と金目鯛を混ぜ混ぜしていただきます

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岡崎の銘酒

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唐墨

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余市の鮟肝。プリンのキャラメルのような濃くて甘い香り

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左が銚子の赤身、真ん中が同じく銚子の背ナカ、右が下田の腹カミ

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昆布〆の鰆

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この純大吟が好き

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背ナカの中トロ。肌理細やかな脂に悶絶。

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野付の小柱。タップリ盛り

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銚子の赤身。間に混とびを挟んで鉄火巻のような味わいに

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福井の銘酒

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赤いか。関西では剣先イカ。肉厚なので丁寧に包丁目を入れ軽く炙るとエペソスの女神（オッパイを沢山ぶら下げている豊穣の女神）に変身

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下田に揚がった腹カミの中トロ。春先に入り爽やかな軽めの脂に変化

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小肌。砂糖〆と塩〆

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東条特A山田錦はウンマイ

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車海老

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室津の牡蠣。煮上げて赤酢に漬けました

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明らかに建築基準法違反です。加工は根室ですが産地は北方四島のプーチンウニ

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鮪の太巻きがスターティンググリッドに

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鮨屋のお味噌汁はウンマイ

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キラウエア火山が噴火したような鮪の太巻きの端っこ

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カステラ風の玉子焼き。これは好き

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2022/04/03 更新

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raccostarさんが投稿したすが弥（東京/赤羽橋）の口コミ詳細

すが弥赤羽橋、麻布十番、芝公園/寿司

ジャンルから探す

予算

営業時間

raccostarさんが投稿したすが弥（東京/赤羽橋）の口コミ詳細

すが弥赤羽橋、麻布十番、芝公園/寿司

ジャンルから探す

予算

営業時間

こだわり

利用シーン

禁煙・喫煙

ドリンク

空間・設備