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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
大班樓の旧地では階段の下をくぐらないとダイニング室に入れない。狭い香港地だから仕方がなかっただろう。 通る時の怪我を防ぐために全面の壁に象牙色の革が貼ってあった。奇抜は奇抜でも、何故か高級中華館の気品が滲み出て、私は逆に好印象を抱いた。移転後の店内は温かい白革から一転暗黒マットに変貌したけれど、老練なギャルソンは相変わらず気さくで安心感を与えてくれた。
晩餐の始まりはRachmaninoffのピアノ協奏曲第二番と同じく、静まりから一歩一歩近づく。幾つかの前菜で味蕾をくすぐったところ、いきなり美食の怒涛が襲いかかる。その勢いが凄まじくて、〆の煲仔飯まで一気に受け止めなければならない。ペダルを踏みっぱなしのように味の余韻が混ざり合う。
鯛の鯛あれば班の斑あり。胡椒炒斑球こそ料理長の腕の見せ所である。炒め物の真髄とは、如何に最小限に油を引きながらも最大限の火力で食材に焦香を刻み込むこと。
鮮明な莢エンドウと黒皮白身の切り身の対照で、皿の上に賑やかなムラが描かれた。先日山頂小径で見た一面の荒い山壁を彷彿とさせる。ただし、長年の腐蝕によって出来た自然美と違って、技術が芸術に成り上がった瞬間は厨房の中の人間のみ知る。
どれどれ、と箸を付けると、隙間から香気が漏れる。有り得ないぐらい油分が少ないし、それにあの鮮味と歯応えは天然海斑特有のもの。
従来鮑參翅肚を抗拒する大班樓でも、段々派手な料理を造る傾向になりつつある。そんな中、この一見凡俗な、過小評価されがちな一品こそ私の目に留まるという感想が支配人の耳に入った時、彼は驚きを隠せなかった。皮肉なことに、ずっと年下の私を老派と呼ばざるを得なかった。
（ https://sensationdefinednetwork.blogspot.com/2025/03/bandeban.htmlより）