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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ごきげんよう、諸君。
今宵、私が訪れたのは虎ノ門の路地裏にひっそりと佇む焼鳥の名店、「焼鳥なかむら」。黒を基調にしたシックな空間ながら、決して気取らず、肩の力を抜いて楽しめる温もりがある。なるほど、これは店主・中村大将の人柄が生む魔法のようなものだろう。
さて、供されたのは焼鳥の極致とも言うべきコース料理。銘柄鶏の厳選部位を巧みに焼き分けた串、そして品格ある一品料理が織りなす見事な構成だ。
【串】
黒薩摩地鶏のももは、肉の繊維がほどよくほぐれ、噛むたびにじゅわりと旨味が広がる。赤鶏薩摩のハラミは肉汁をたたえながらも、赤身のコクがしっかりと主張し、なんとも艶やか。比内地鶏の膝上・膝下、それぞれの弾力の違いが楽しい。
そして「きんちゃく」。これは尻のほうのホルモンらしいが、歯を入れた瞬間に脂の甘みが舌に溶け、まるで儚い恋のように消え去る。手羽先は皮目パリリ、中ふっくら。れんこんのシャキシャキ感が、鶏の濃厚な脂に心地よいアクセントを加えてくる。
【一品料理】
串の合間に供される料理がまた素晴らしい。胡麻豆腐の揚げ出しは、香ばしい衣の中からとろりと現れる胡麻の風味が豊かで、思わず目を閉じて味わう。ごぼうの白和えは滋味深く、しみじみと胃袋に染みる。
【締め】
このコースの圧巻は、なんと言っても最後に登場する「ごぼうを炊いた出汁と鶏スープのそうめん」だ。ごぼうの力強い香りを纏いながらも、泥臭さは一切なく、鶏スープの深い旨味が見事に調和する。細いそうめんがその味わいをまとう様は、まるで詩人が言葉を紡ぐ筆先のようだ。一口すすれば、もうこの場を離れたくなくなる。
料理はシンプルでありながら、そこには研ぎ澄まされた技と哲学が宿る。焼鳥とは、単なる串焼きにあらず。火と肉と塩の絶妙な駆け引きによって、鶏という食材の魅力が最大限に引き出される芸術なのだ。
諸君、焼鳥を「ただの居酒屋メニュー」と侮るなかれ。ここ「焼鳥なかむら」で味わう一本一本は、まさに職人の魂が宿る珠玉の作品だ。次なる美食の旅へ、わが書斎で共に物語を紡ごうではないか？