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ごきげんよう、諸君。
味覚の旅人・味覚 文士(あじかく ぶんし)である。
京都は宮津、天橋立の夜は、潮風が心をくすぐる。そんな風情の中、私は“富田屋”という名の庶民派の聖地に辿り着いた。外観は昭和の香りを色濃く残し、雨に濡れた石畳が店の灯りを映していた。まるで時代劇のワンシーンに迷い込んだような情緒。だが中に入れば、そこは胃袋のワンダーランドであった。
カウンターの奥では、職人たちが忙しくも軽快に動く。火が踊り、包丁が唄い、湯気が舞う。彼らの手元には一分の隙もない。速い、上手い、安い――その三拍子が、恐ろしいまでの完成度で鳴り響いている。
まず登場したのは、ウマヅラハギの刺身。透き通るような白身に、ポン酢が星屑のようにきらめく。肝を添えれば、それはもう“日本海のトリュフ”である。続いて秋刀魚の塩焼きが登場。脂が弾け、皮が香ばしく焦げる音が秋の夜長を奏でる。レモンをひと搾りすれば、海風と柑橘が舌の上で恋をした。
いわしの塩焼きは小粋な脇役、しかしその苦味と塩気が日本酒を呼び覚ます。いか煮は優しい甘辛さで、ぶり大根は“おふくろの記憶”そのもの。さらにベニズワイガニが卓上に現れた時、私は思わずペンを置いた。無言のまま、夢中でハサミを動かす――これはもう、食の修行僧である。
そして締めには、ラーメン、カレーうどん、肉うどんが並ぶ。どれも出汁の香りが深く、夜更けに染み入る滋味。胃袋が「もう一杯!」と懇願するが、諸君、ここは理性の勝利ではなく、快楽の降伏を選ぶべきであろう。
会計を終えて唖然とした。三人で食べて、飲んで、笑って――それで五千円を切る? これはもはや「奇跡の定食屋」である。
「美食とは、心と胃袋の共同作業。」
まさにこの言葉のために富田屋は存在している。
諸君、京都・宮津を訪れることがあれば、ぜひこの“胃袋の楽園”に立ち寄ってほしい。
そして、わが書斎で共に美食の物語を紡ごうではないか?