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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
愛媛が誇る名店くるますしにて、二代目・高平康司大将が握る珠玉のコースを堪能しました。カリスマ漁師、藤本さんとの揺るぎない連携が生み出す最高の素材と、東京での修行に裏打ちされた大将の技術が、この日の感動を支えています。
まず、つまみの始まりを飾るのは、藤本さんの目利きが光る鱧。単なる骨切りに留まらない骨抜きの仕事によって、腹、背中、そして珍しい卵までが、鱧本来の風味を損なうことなく供されます。滋味深い鱧の出汁には、ふっくらとした浮袋が使われ、その繊細さに心が温まります。
続く青ウナギは、岡山で穴雑魚を食べて育ったという、力強い旨味と締まりが別格。愛南町で前日水揚げ、今朝神経締めされた胡麻鯖の鮮烈な脂。松山・二神島産の黒アワビは、6時間蒸しという最高の火入れで、その柔らかさと磯の濃厚な香りに唸らされます。高知の金目鯛、愛南町のクエと、旬の魚介が贅沢に続きました。
握りの部では、高平大将のシャリとネタが織りなす一体感が際立ちます。特に目を引いたのは、2.3キロという大物の白甘鯛。上品な甘みがふわりとほどけ、京都舞鶴産のトロは、高平流の贅沢な2枚付けで、濃厚な脂の甘さが口中に溢れ出します。
そして、この日のハイライトの一つが、藤本さんから直接届いた大島産のマナガツオです。鮮度抜群のマナガツオは、程よい酸味と旨味が絶妙。また、エボダイは徳島産。四国の一部ではシズやウオゼとも呼ばれるこの魚を、大将が巧みに握りに仕立てています。
極め付きは、二神島産の赤ウニ。完全無添加のそのウニは、雑味が一切なく、純粋で濃密な甘さだけが口の中で溶けていきました。地元の車海老は二段階火入という緻密な技術で、身のプリッとした食感と、濃厚な海老のミソが完璧に調和。鮎の蒸し寿司や、ふわりと香ばしい穴子でコースは深みを増していきます。
追加の部はもちろん全ネタを注文。愛南町のウメイロやゴマ鯖、おこぜは魚の旨味を閉じ込めた芸術品。小肌と縞海老のおぼろの組み合わせは、最後まで記憶に残る鮨体験を締めくくってくれました。
若き才能が、海の恵みを最高の形で表現した、忘れられない一夜でした。
つまみ
青ウナギ 岡山
鱧 腹 背中 卵
鱧の出汁 浮袋
胡麻鯖 愛南町
黒アワビ 松山 二神島
金目鯛 高知
クエ 愛南町
握り
白甘鯛
マナガツオ 大島
キス 今治
赤身 京都舞鶴
トロ 京都舞鶴
渡り蟹 今治
エボダイ
鮎 小田川 蒸し寿司
赤ムツ 徳島
赤ウニ 二神島
車海老
穴子 蒸し焼き
玉
追加:
ウメイロ 愛南町
ゴマ鯖
おこぜ
小肌 縞海老のおぼろ
ハマグリ