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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
かねてより食通の間で評判の高い赤吉さんへ、念願叶い伺うことができました。この店の核となるのは、親方である赤瀬さんの飽くなき食への探求心と、魚を最高の状態に仕上げる天才漁師・藤本さんの技術の融合です。藤本さんが獲られた魚は、すべて日本一と名高い神経締めの技術で処理されており、その鮮度と身質の良さはまさに別格。まさに地の利と職人技が融合した唯一無二の鮨店です。
この店のスタイルは、まさに瀬戸内前と呼ぶにふさわしく、この海域の魚のポテンシャルを最大限に引き出しています。
まずは、おつまみからコースがスタート。付け出しに続き供されたのは、地元以外ではほとんど流通しないという天竺鯛の唐揚げです。サイズは小さいながらも、その身から染み出る旨味は驚くほどしっかりしており、この地ならではの貴重な味わいを堪能しました。衣はカリッと、身はふっくらと揚がっています。
秋刀魚の炭火焼きは、骨がすべて抜かれ一口サイズにまとめられており、信じられないほど丁寧な仕事に感銘を受けます。続く太刀魚の南蛮漬けや甘鯛の醤油焼きなど、一つ一つが季節の恵みを感じさせる逸品揃いです。
本日供されたクエの刺身やキジハタの刺身に顕著ですが、藤本さんの技術で締めた瀬戸内海の魚は、筋肉質でありながらも上質な脂が乗っているというこの海域特有の力強い美味しさが際立っています。
そして、この日のハイライトの一つが、チャイロマルハタの広東風姿蒸し。食べ歩きを愛する赤瀬大将が、美味しいと感じた料理の技術を鮨のコースに取り入れるという発想の豊かさから生まれた逸品です。ふっくらとした身に、広東風の香りと出汁が絡み合い、和の枠を超えた旨味に舌鼓を打ちました。
お椀にもこだわりが光ります。オコゼの出汁を贅沢に使った茶碗蒸しは、見た目が真っ白でつるつるとした美しい仕上がり。優しい出汁の香りが胃を温めてくれます。その後に供された鱧の出汁も、奥深い滋味に満ちていました。
お待ちかねの握りも、もちろん藤本さんの神経締めの魚が中心。この瀬戸内前の粋を感じさせるラインナップで、珍しい鱧の卵入りや、力強い身質の黒ムツ、旬のイサキ、そしてしっかりとした仕事が施された鯖。口の中でとろける白甘鯛や、〆の鯵の押し寿司、ねっとりとした剣先イカも秀逸です。軍艦には、濃厚な甘みが広がる地元の赤ウニが惜しみなく盛られていました。
〆は、シャリを忍ばせた出し巻き玉子で満腹に。最後のデザートにのバニラアイスは、赤瀬さんが某有名フレンチシェフから直伝されたレシピで作られているとのこと。その滑らかで上品な甘さは、最高のコースの締めくくりとして完璧でした。
赤吉さんでの体験は、天才漁師・藤本さんの最高の魚を、料理を探求し続ける赤瀬大将が最高の形で表現するという、奇跡的な出会いが生み出した至高の美食体験でした。
ご馳走さまでした。